Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Toofast


Member Since: Jun 7, 2006
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Geir

Point Rank: # 171
Total Points: 3,358
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 1
90 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Geir been climbing?










Contributions


All 2651 | Routes 69 | Areas 20 | Photos 328 | Page Improvements | Comments 728 | Posts 989 | Stars 356 | Ratings 161
Page 1 of 30.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: Geir When: Nov 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks George! I will correct this in the book and in the free topo. :)

[EDIT 1/19/16] The updated topo is now posted.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Warpath Dome : Warpath (5.9- PG13)
By: Geir When: Jan 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a fun climb. Some of the beta is a bit different from Weekend Rock, so I posted an updated topo here:

toofasttopos.com/free/warpath%...

There are several more good routes on this wall that I will detail as I have time.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Jan 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Love this picture. There is something really appealing in repeating these old classics! :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Tombstone : Old School Executioner (5.12)
By: Geir When: Jan 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah Brian!! Glad to hear you got on this climb! Congrats! :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Great Gig in the Sky (5.11c R)
By: Geir When: Jan 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Congrats to Austin for his onsight ascent of all three pitches 12/31/15. A great way to end the year!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : High Man on the Shmotem Pol... (5.11-)
By: Geir When: Dec 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: That wasn't me posting John. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Dec 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Finally someone got it! Thanks Lucas!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Poetry in Motion (5.10- R)
By: Geir When: Dec 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome job Lucas! And Thanks!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Jabberwocky (5.12 R)
By: Geir When: Oct 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I put a newer topo for this route here:

toofasttopos.com/free/rockfell...

Enjoy!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Tombstone : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Oct 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks Eric!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Tombstone : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Oct 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Ok guys, you're both right. I dug up the original picture (which, by the way, was not taken with a good camera) and took a few minutes to process it more nicely.


Rock Climbing Photo: corrected photo
corrected photo



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Sensory Desuetude (5.11a R)
By: Geir When: Sep 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah Austin and TJ!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line Direct (5.10b/c R)
By: Geir When: Jul 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hahahahahaha Daryl! Your appeal was heard and they reassigned the route to me. I posted up a new description and added an image with a topo for pitch 1. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Swept Away (5.11)
By: Geir When: Jun 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Glad you are OK!


Location: Geir : Main album : Photo
By: Geir When: May 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Love it!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall Parking Lot : Xerxes (5.9 R)
By: Geir When: May 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry to see this Greg. Bummer that the OP didn't just write his own description.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Geir When: Mar 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks Andrew, I will be glad to look into this further. It would be best to honor the restrictions as posted by the FS until this is clarified. Check out climbaz.com for background on the closures.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Geir When: Feb 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the hard work Luke. I will have my bolt puller in town shortly and hopefully it will help make the work easier.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Geir When: Feb 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah Luke!!!

Do you have any before/after pics? Thanks!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Uncarved Block (5.11b/c R)
By: Geir When: Feb 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Jim said that he did the second ascent with Bill Hatcher. Chip repeated the route in 1985 - I will have to ask him who is partner was. Aleix Serrat-Capdevila and I also climbed it last October. I do not know of any other ascents, although I would not be surprised if DDC has done it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Geir When: Feb 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It's about personal taste I think. For those that like the challenge of the route finding and anchor building this climb is stellar. I really like it a lot.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow...
By: Geir When: Jan 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A Google Earth file showing the approach can be found at this link:

geir.com/googleearth/lemmon/

Enjoy!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Jan 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: hey climberz,

The two old rusted bolts were the original anchor. The newer bolt and chain was added in order to make an easy lower off from the first pitch; this was done by the same person who swapped the Metolius rap hanger on to the remaining old bolt.

Fortunately, failures of the old 3/8" split shafts have been rare to this point. Still, they will be swapped out as quickly as possible.

The good news is that it is possible to pull these bolts cleanly, re-drill the hole to 1/2",... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Jan 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Daryl,

I think that is part of the problem. The hanger was stainless. My understanding is that the original hangers on this climb were swapped out in 1996, so there was 19 years for mixed metal problems to run their course.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Jan 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hey climberz,

Glad you are OK.

That bolt was one of the original 3/8" split shafts. It was a commonly-placed bolt in the Stronghold during the time of the FA of this route. In many cases, the Leeper hangers that were originally used were later replaced with newer hangers.

Steve Grossman reported at the Granitica Festival in March 2014 that some of these aged bolts are prone to failure in a fashion similar to what you are describing. I and others are working on replacing these bolts@SEMICO... more >>


Page 1 of 30.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>