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Member Since: May 7, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 8, 2017
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 36 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 6 | Stars 4 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Difficult Crack (5.8) > Photo
By: Gary Taylor When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: Crack-a-toe-a is on the same formation but on the south facing side. This was called "Difficult Crack" in a 1965 guide.


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Photo
By: Gary Taylor When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Nice perspective to show these often confused routes.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Altered States Gully > Air Express (5.11d R)
By: Gary Taylor When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: A historical perspective:
Air Express is a direct variation of Walk on Air 5.11a. I'm not sure that Walk on Air can still be done. A massive rockfall eliminated Cheap Thrills 5.7 and at least part of Walk on Air. The photo on this route shows a large section of lighter rock to the left of the Air Express line. This was all exposed by the rockfall possibly 10 years ago. I estimate the block that fell was probably 15 feet by 15 feet by 70 feet. The long runouts were unavoidable in order to bolt o... more >>


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Vector Madness Wall > Vector Madness (5.10d)
By: Gary Taylor When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: Yep. Pat was pretty worried about that block. He put the sling on right away. The block is still hanging in there after more than 25 years.


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Third Crack (5.7+) > Photo
By: Gary Taylor When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: This is actually First Crack.


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Second Crack (5.7) > Photo
By: Gary Taylor When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: This a great picture of First Crack (not Second Crack).


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Glass Ocean and Environs > Atlantis (5.10a R)
By: Gary Taylor When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: We always considered this the best approach to High Dive. We felt the gear was a bit tricky but all there, at least by 80's standards.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Glass Ocean and Environs > Lord of the Long Arms (5.9+)
By: Gary Taylor When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: For what it's worth, the old bolts are 5/16 inch buttonheads. That makes them the same diameter as the bolt in a 3/8 inch 5 piece rawl so they have essentially the same shear strength. They are longer than a 1/4 inch buttonhead (1.5 vs. 1 inch) although shorter than the 5 piece rawls (2 to 3 inches). In rock as hard as quartzite they seem to maintain excellent pull-out strength. All this being said they are still 25 years old, so ...


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Next To Nothing 12.a (5.12a PG13) > Photo
By: Gary Taylor When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Great photo!


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Over and Up (5.11)
By: Gary Taylor When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: We called the straight from the ground variation "Up and Up".


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Brother Buttress > Crack-a-Toe-a (5.4)
By: Gary Taylor When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: Originally called crack-a-toe-a.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Redrum > Redrum (5.10c)
By: Gary Taylor When: Jul 14, 2011

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Comments: Redrum now has chains at the top.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Glass Ocean and Environs > Glass Ocean (5.8+)
By: Gary Taylor When: Aug 22, 2010

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Comments: I strongly agree with the recommendation to place a TCU (or nut) between bolts 3 and 4. This route was not put up as a sport route. We would not have considered placing a bolt next to such an easy to protect crack in 1988. In fact the 3rd bolt was added long after the first ascent when we heard of climbers placing no pro between the second bolt and what is now the fourth bolt. As to the concern at the second bolt and the overall difficulty of the route, the simple fact is this route is NOT 5... more >>


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Mule Hollow Wall > Ravages Of Time (5.9+)
By: Gary Taylor When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: The first pitch is one of the most enjoyable pitches of this grade I have ever done in 30+ years of climbing. GREAT ROUTE!


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Third Crack (5.7+)
By: Gary Taylor When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: This is First Crack not Third Crack.


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Second Crack (5.7)
By: Gary Taylor When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: This route is DEFINITELY First Crack. It appears in a guide book entitled "Guide to the Mississippi Palisades" by Demetri Kolokotronis published in 1965 and also in "River Rock" by Bill Collett and myself published in 1983 and revised in 1991.
The First Crack through Fourth Crack routes are numbered in sequence from RIGHT TO LEFT. Fourth Crack is not a very distinct crack and is also known as Double Overhang.


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Pretzel (5.9)
By: Gary Taylor When: Oct 25, 2009

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Comments: We called the route which shares the same start as the Pretzel but angles left the "Pretzel Face" 5.10. The classic Pretzel angles slightly right.


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Second Crack (5.7)
By: Gary Taylor When: Sep 26, 2009

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Comments: The description and the picture shown are both of the route called First Crack.


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > First Crack (5.7)
By: Gary Taylor When: Sep 26, 2009

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Comments: The climb described between Nosey and Blank Wall is actually Second Crack aka Myrtle's Folly. About 5.5.


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Double Overhang (5.8)
By: Gary Taylor When: Sep 26, 2009

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Comments: aka Fourth Crack


Location: Illinois > Mississippi Palisades > Location Unknown Routes > Blank Face (5.11)
By: Gary Taylor When: Sep 26, 2009

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Comments: This route is actually called Blank Wall. It was first top roped in the early 80's probably by Bruce Hamilton. We always rated it 5.10+ but it is probably about 5.11a. It has been led using trad gear but I would say it's R rated.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Challenge Buttress > East Face > Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: Gary Taylor When: May 7, 2008

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Comments: The name of this route is Sweet and Low. FA fall 2004 by Sarah Taylor (age 17).


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Mississippi Palisades beta and partner 5/6MidwestGary TaylorApr 27, 2016
re: Best slab climbs in the wasatchNorthern Utah & IdahoGary TaylorNov 15, 2015
re: top rope soloable routes in big or little cottonwood.Northern Utah & IdahoGary TaylorMar 6, 2014
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