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Member Since: May 13, 2006
Last Visit: Nov 23, 2016
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GabeO
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Point Rank: # 1,976
Total Points: 395
Last Year: 28
Last 30 Days: 0
70 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has GabeO been climbing?










Contributions


All 663 | Routes 13 | Areas 1 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 94 | Posts 329 | Stars 159 | Ratings 35
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Orchard Wall : Triple Treat (5.10b)
By: GabeO When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: Be very careful with the rope. It's easy for it to get sucked into the crack in the first roof, burying your cams and causing the rope to get stuck, when you lower off the anchors.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Delicatessen (5.12a/b)
By: GabeO When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: Just absolutely fantastic. Do it.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Kingfish : King of Swing (5.11a)
By: GabeO When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Soaks up passive gear. Sewed it up with nuts/hexes.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Animal Crack (5.9)
By: GabeO When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: This climb is AKA "Lana's Crack" in the Fasulo guidebook.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The North End : The Slot (5.10b)
By: GabeO When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: @ Peter above: I can imagine doing it with sausage fingers. It's really effin hard. I hung. LOL


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Good Luck Mountain : Medicine Man (5.11a) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: Wow, looks desperate. Don't see any holds.


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Forearm Frenzy (5.11b) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Nice shot. Best I've seen showing the whole route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : No Man's Land (5.11b)
By: GabeO When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: A 60 meter rope will definitely not reach the ground if the belayer is also on the ground. However if the belayer is on the ledge with the tree 30 feet up, you can definitely lower the climber to the ground (with a meter or two to spare) with a 60.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: GabeO When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Sean is right, and Bababata missed a few good placements (I got a Ball Nut and a perfect blue Alien in two different cracks). I feel that section is probably 9+/10- PG.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scarface (5.11b) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: LOL, makes it look like a sustained tips crack!


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Right Edge (5.7 R)
By: GabeO When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for fixing the protection rating. There's decent protection for the first half, but none on the second; if you blow the crux, you'll blow your ankles for sure.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Bird Cage (5.10b)
By: GabeO When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Moritz B: The corner is sustained and technical. 9+ or 10- for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor : Photo
By: GabeO When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Ouch. Way over-processed. Hurts my eyes.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: IIRC, you switch sides when the crack switches directions.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : Elegant Monkey (5.6)
By: GabeO When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: Definitely significantly harder than 5.6 if you avoid all the teetering blocks on this. Both my partner and I thought this was harder than Pegasus.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : White Fandango (5.9)
By: GabeO When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: The loose block at the top of the dihedral is gone. However there is another loose block about 10 or 12 feet above this. This is very unfortunate, since you get no gear through there, and then avoiding that next loose block is a bit cruxy. If you grab that block and it comes out you're looking at a good 15 foot fall onto the ledge, and then another 15 feet (to near groundfall). Be careful.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Yellow Dot (5.12b)
By: GabeO When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure if something has broken off. About four or five years ago, I led this route cleanly on my first attempt. Yesterday I could not pull the crux at all, after many attempts. I studied it hard, so I don't think I missed any holds. Perhaps I've just gotten stupider (very possible!).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Chest Full of Kind (5.10)
By: GabeO When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Agreed probably more like 10+ now the flake is gone.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Balkan Dirt Diving (5.12a)
By: GabeO When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Really nice route. One note though: the beginning (especially getting off the ground) is very height-dependent. I'm 5'7" with a plus two ape index, and I was fine, but my wife who is two inches shorter, with a minus one, simply could not reach the left hand from the ground. The only way to have started would've been with a cheater stone, or pull 12c moves.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hurricane Hinzi (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: If there was a drilled pocket originally, I think it has been filled in. There is one key pocket (that I couldn't fit any of my sausage fingers into) in the crux, but it looks pretty natural to me.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Culp Valley : Windy Boulders : ... : Photo
By: GabeO When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Seems like that top would only work for climbers. Without our big lats, the top would ride up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cactus Cliff Addict (5.10d)
By: GabeO When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Note, the hardware on this route was upgraded on 12/15/2013.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.12a) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Really nice pic... although I couldn't get that beta to work. Good holds there, but then they ran out. I found going slightly left better.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.12a)
By: GabeO When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I think the 11d grade must refer to a different line than the standard one. The description by Richard mentions a seam curving back to Lats, and in the comments section, he mentions finishing at the Lats anchor. The line now finishes at an independent anchor, and IMO, is solid at 5.12a (or a/b).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Fin City
By: GabeO When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Going to disagree with other comments. I thought the hike was not bad, and the climbing was all quite pleasant.


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