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Rock Climbing Photo: Gothic Nightmare. Look at what it does.


Member Since: Jul 10, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Furthermore

Point Rank: # 263
Total Points: 2,493
Last Year: 1,258
Last 30 Days: 56
13 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Furthermore been climbing?










Contributions


All 596 | Routes 123 | Areas 26 | Photos 165 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts | Stars 181 | Ratings 53
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Demon Semen (5.9)
By: Furthermore When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: We had 5 people climb, 3 lead, and all thought this was harder than Devil's Duodenum. As usual, all ratings are subjective.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Putterman Residence : Original Route (5.9+)
By: Furthermore When: Oct 23, 2016

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Comments: The first pitch of this has some of the WORST rock I have found in the Valley of Gods. If your objective is the summit, do a different route. At least 50 lbs of rock was removed on my ascent (not intentional). YUK.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Sin City : The Devil's Trident (5.10)
By: Furthermore When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: The very bottom may require some more gardening; it's acceptable. We removed a lot of thorn bushes.

Thanks, Glen, for the leather gloves!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Sea Cliffs of North Quarry : Moon Walk (5.11c)
By: Furthermore When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: I'm 99% certain that holds have broken off this climb after the third bolt based on the photo posted. It felt extremely hard for 11c now that the holds are gone. A wee bit chossy.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hangdog Cafe : The Oldtimey Eleven (5.11c)
By: Furthermore When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: Without a stick clip, the lower section before the first bolt can be protected with a bomber BD C4 #0.75. It would be a pretty tough and scary first bolt without the 0.75 or stick clip.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : The Rook (5.10+)
By: Furthermore When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: The trick we found is to put a cam high in the crack just below the roof and traverse RIGHT out of the roof. Feels somewhat insecure, but the climbing doesn't exceed 5.9. Good footwork required. Once you traverse out, gear is plentiful and the climbing is solid to the top.

Don't be suckered in following the pins directly through or left of the roof.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : A Hard Rain's Gonna Fall (5.10)
By: Furthermore When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: Interesting for such the discrepancy. I don't actually own Schmitt's book (only remember glancing over the book at the crag), but I double checked Green's, and it's definitely marked as 11-. Whatever.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : A Hard Rain's Gonna Fall (5.10)
By: Furthermore When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: This sure felt like an 11- instead. A wonky 11-. Both of the books - Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado" and Schmitt's "Eleven Miles to Freedom" - agree.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : ... : Photo
By: Furthermore When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: You're totally right! I think I'll be sticking to moderate sport climbing from now on.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Right Side : Awful Width (5.9+)
By: Furthermore When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a fun line and a safe lead. For gear, I took double 4s and a single 5 and didn't need anything larger. Also, I don't think I placed anything smaller than a #2.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Bozo No No (5.11a)
By: Furthermore When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: As of July 2015, there is a wasp nest in a pocket just 6-8 inches above the first bolt. I was lucky and missed putting my finger in the pocket by staying on edges. The wasps seemed pretty angry when I was eye level with them and lowered off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Laugh (5.11a)
By: Furthermore When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know what the bolted line (4-5 bolts) is to the left? I liked it better, but that line felt harder than 11a. 11+?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Sitting Hen : Mr. Stubbs (5.9 A0)
By: Furthermore When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Maybe there was a different way for the approach (didn't appear to be?) but we scrambled up the northwest side for the approach (short minor class 4 bands), climbed a 5.9 crack on the northeast side, walked around (counterclockwise) to the south side, scrambled up a class 3 slot and then aided on bolts up the west face to the top.

A double rope rappel down the west face got us to the bottom.

I thought the rock quality on the climbing was fairly good but the rock quality on the scrambling was ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Low Angle Left Slab (WI2-3) : Photo (Copy)
By: Furthermore When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: 1 - Low Angle Left Slab - mountainproject.com/v/low-angl...
2 - Sickle on a Stick - mountainproject.com/v/sickle-o...
3 - Main Flow Right - mountainproject.com/v/main-flo...


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Sickle on a Stick (aka Newt... (WI5) : Photo (Copy)
By: Furthermore When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: 1 - Low Angle Left Slab - mountainproject.com/v/low-angl...
2 - Sickle on a Stick - mountainproject.com/v/sickle-o...
3 - Main Flow Right - mountainproject.com/v/main-flo...


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Main Flow Right (WI4) : Photo
By: Furthermore When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: 1 - Low Angle Left Slab - mountainproject.com/v/low-angl...
2 - Sickle on a Stick - mountainproject.com/v/sickle-o...
3 - Main Flow Right - mountainproject.com/v/main-flo...

I'm not sure what things look like in recent years, but that was in 2004. I can't imagine that much have changed??


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Furthermore When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: C2? Blahahahah...

Our party must have been complete chicken shits too!

No doubt in my mind that's C3 but I suck at climbing.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Ding Dang Dome : Um, yeah (5.8)
By: Furthermore When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: This is a two star route for good views and adventure. The actual 5.8 climbing isn't too bad. Everything else, not so much.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Furthermore When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: About 15-20 feet up pitch 3 is a loose dinner plate sized rock. It should be removed. There was a party behind us so we didn't want to mess with it. Also, our rope got stuck on that same rock while pulling our ropes on our descent. What a f*#K fest.

For the descent, I would recommend doing a single rope rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3 and then a double 60M rope rappel to the intermediate anchor on pitch 2 and then another double 60M rope rappel to the ground.

I would... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Furthermore When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: There indeed is a new bolt at the end of the traverse on pitch 7. That's why pitch 4 is now the "Spicy Meatball."

Also, that rappel down pitch 7 to the top of pitch 6, it blows. Didn't someone mention someone was going to epic on it? Well, that chap, was me. We wanted to go down Road Kill but was worried about the condition of the anchors. Descending this route sucks!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Juggmo (5.7)
By: Furthermore When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: What a choss fest near the top.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Dihedral Route (5.7+)
By: Furthermore When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.

The "Good" gear placements near the top are on some precarious blocks. I sure wouldn't want to take a whipper and have the forces of the cams loosen those blocks. I only say that because I have had a similar failure of the rock while at Morrison.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rop... (5.9)
By: Furthermore When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: There is a finger pocket on the lower third with a wasp nest in it.

The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.

Moreover, I think this route would be best protected by tri-cams.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8)
By: Furthermore When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this route yesterday and I have a few notes, additions to beta, and thoughts. First, I thought the climbing was pretty decent despite the super long approach but far from a 4 star classic. Plenty of sustained moderate climbing with the last 5.8 hand crack being really good. If only that hand crack was longer. Minus the approach, I thought it was a 3 star climb. It also looks like we're not the only one that had route finding problems.

We did it in 8 pitches, since we did the dir... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Bombardier Dome : Seven Time Loser (5.7)
By: Furthermore When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: According to the guide, it shows the route heading right from the wider crack and back in the main crack at the tree. Climbing directly in the wide crack felt a bit stiff for 5.7. Dirty holds with lichen feet seemed to up the ante.


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