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Member Since: Mar 14, 2012
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Fritz Nuffer

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All 498 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 411 | Stars 6 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > South Rim Routes > Blackjack (5.10-)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Oct 8, 2017

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Comments: Fun route! A couple months ago, we set out for Blackjack and accidentally got on one of the abandoned lines mentioned in the new book. We bailed four pitches up in the face of unprotected 5.11+ face, rapped down and walk-of-shamed back up Chillumstone.

This time was much better.

Approach: 1:40 to the base of P1. We pitched out a 5.6 handcrack just after the fixed line rap.

P1: good burly handjamming in a flare.
P2: short, easy chimney with face holds to jamming and stemming. Awkward wide mo... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > San Juans > The Grenadiers > Storm King > North Face (5.7+)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: Ditto: aperfectweakness.com/2017/08/2...


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > San Juans > The Grenadiers > Storm King
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: Longwinded TR here, including our 5.10 headwall variation: aperfectweakness.com/2017/08/2...


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Kissing Couple area > Kissing Couple > Long Dong Wall (aka Bell To... (5.11a)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 18, 2017

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Comments: Longwinded TR here: aperfectweakness.com/2017/07/1...


Location: Colorado > Durango > Lemon Reservoir
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 18, 2017

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Comments: If you're putting up a new route at Lemon, hit me up, and I'd be happy to get you some Mussy hooks for the anchors.


Location: Colorado > Durango > Cascade Canyon
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 18, 2017

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Comments: If you're bolting a worthwhile new line at Cascade, feel free to PM me, and I'll buy you some Mussy hooks for the anchors.


Location: Colorado > Durango > East Animas
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 18, 2017

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Comments: If you're developing a worthwhile route at East A, feel free to PM me and I'll buy you some Mussy hooks for the anchor.


Location: Colorado > Durango
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 18, 2017

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Comments: If you're developing a worthwhile route in the Durango area, please PM me. I'd be happy to buy you some Mussy hooks to use on the anchor.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Island In The Sky > Standing Rock > The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: Long-winded TR: aperfectweakness.com/2017/07/1...


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... > Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Long-winded TR:

aperfectweakness.com/2017/07/1...


Location: Colorado > Telluride/Norwood area > Ophir > Cracked Canyon > Superfresh (5.11-)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: Superb, thought-provoking movement with techy moves above bolts, and plentiful gear thereafter. If you're short like me, be sure to limber up for the gymnastic move at the end!


Location: Colorado > Telluride/Norwood area > Ophir > Cracked Canyon > Summertime (5.9+)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: Definitely worth the hike. An 80m just reached on rap. If you need to downclimb with a 70m, the first fifteen feet are either wet and mossy 5.6 or good 5.9 with a bad landing zone. I'd do it again with a 70m and rig a biner block and slings/cord to extend.

Stellar jamming. I traversed early into the fistcrack up top, and it was a bit dirty. Probably better to face climb a bit after the right crack peters out.

No need for a #4. The left fist crack takes smaller gear in horizontals.


Location: Colorado > Telluride/Norwood area > Ophir > Ophir Wall > Main Wall > Hot Wee Wee (5.9)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: Carried a #4.5 and never placed it. You can sling chockstones on the last pitch, whose abundant face holds render it no harder than 5.8.

Ditto the rap beta: instead of rapping off the slung flake at the top of P2, trend right around an arete to new chain anchors. On the next rap, you can either stop after 80' to mediocre bolts and tat, or continue another 50' down and right to bolts and rings.


Location: Colorado > Durango > Fume Wall > Low Angle Wall > C.T.A. Route (5.11b)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: There's decent ledgefall potential on the 5.10 moves clipping the second bolt above the middle tier. Fun route, but the little runout isn't in keeping with the rest of Fume.


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... > Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jun 5, 2017

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Comments: Stellar, unique movement on mostly good stone. We did it in early June with a high of 80 and paid for it. The sun hit around 11:30. There is belay shade in the chimney at the top of the second .11 and the start of the .10+ PG-13 after the 5.8 R peg (if you're late enough in the day).

Some further explanation of the objective hazards of this route. Caveat emptor:

- There is no fixed pin on the boardwalk. If you peeled off midway when it's 5.8, you would fall around thirty feet,... more >>


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > North Chasm View Wall > Walk of Shame (5.7 V-easy X)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: We did the South Rim Walk of Shame back up Chillumstone after bailing off what we thought was Blackjack. Here's the beta:

1) Realize that you just climbed four hundred feet of the wrong climb, a dead-end abandoned line that had an uncanny topo resemblance to your intended route, which was a hundred yards further around the corner. Rap on fixed nut stations and horn slings.

2) Downlead the 5.4 approach pitch.

3) Jug the Chockstone Rap fixed line.

4) Bushwhack back up Chillumstone Gully, ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > Aretes > The Odyssey (5.10c)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: A good route. The crux stem corner is up there in quality with those found on Cloak and Dagger and the Cruise, though slightly easier.

This would make a good first route in the Black for a 5.10 climber, provided that the newcomer follows the spicy bits and isn't allergic to bushes.

Pitch breakdown with beta spoilers:

Approach: what you might think is the "first sandstone gully" is more of a drainage that drops in about five or ten minutes into the hike. Don't take it; it lin... more >>


Location: North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > ... > Space Boyz (5.10d)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: Several rap anchors are less than desirable, oftentimes rusty, spinning cold shuts. However, many stations also have a newer set of anchors alongside them, just without chain or rings. Wère I lucky enough to repeat the route, I'd bring a handful of quicklinks to enable rapping on the newer bolts.


Location: Colorado > Durango > Fume Wall > Low Angle Wall > PWI (5.10)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Oct 22, 2016

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Comments: Fun thug-pull off the deck. Thanks for bolting this, guys!


Location: Colorado > Durango > Lemon Reservoir > West Side > Prow Hugger (5.10b)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: This is a worthwhile addition to the wall; thanks for putting it up! Don't let the dirty start deter you from hopping on this fun arete.


Location: Colorado > Dolores Canyon > Texas Corner (5.10)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: As dirty as it looks, with a surprise finish. Save a #1 or #2 for the top.

I used doubles of fingers and triples of hands and fists. Long route!

Unlike the other routes acessed by this anchor, you can rap with a single 70m down the route, then swing climber's left to walk off.


Location: Colorado > Dolores Canyon > Sunday Stroll (5.10+)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Very enjoyable route, as was Domingo to its left. The patina edges on this stone are a dead ringer for some of the Red Rocks classics.

The route is closer to 150' than 125' ... don't expect to downclimb the start after rapping.


Location: Colorado > Durango > Pine River Trad > The Pope's Nose > Central Buttress (5.10 A0+)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: Good route and well-worth the investment of time. I'd do it again next year.

Hike: intrinsically worthwhile.

Approach: crossing via the downed tree resulted in some mandatory swamp-mucking and willow-whacking in June. We would've been better off hiking the trail to directly across from the boulderfield then fording the creek at knee-deep. This worked well on the descent.

P1: we scrambled to the base of the "chimney" and combined the first two pitches with some rope drag. The... more >>


Location: Colorado > Ouray vicinity (rock) > Waterfall Wall > El Sueno (5.11b)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: After topping out El Sueno, would it be possible to access the walkoff for Fistful and head over to the sidewalk ledge for some extra pitches? Thanks; it's been a while since I was up there.


Location: Colorado > Durango > East Animas > Apple Cider > 3AM Handy (5.11b)
By: Fritz Nuffer When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: Fun, thought-provoking movement on good stone. A nice addition to the wall. Thanks for bolting this, guys!


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