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Member Since: Jun 3, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Floyd Hayes

Point Rank: # 617
Total Points: 1,295

6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Floyd Hayes been climbing?










Contributions


All 975 | Routes 78 | Areas 5 | Approach Trails | Photos 88 | Page Improvements | Comments 261 | Posts | Stars 311 | Ratings 232
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Angwin > Bell Canyon
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 12, 2018

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Comments: I haven't driven by the trailhead recently but I'm pretty sure it is still closed. However, I will check it out. If it is now open I will post a message here.


Location: Wyoming > Lander Area > Sinks Canyon > Sandstone Buttress > Standard Route (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jan 2, 2018

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Comments: The first two pitches were lousy, the last two pitches (including the direct finish) were fun.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (g) West Face > West Face - Right Side > Fingertrip (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Nov 25, 2017

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Comments: BEWARE OF A LOOSE BLOCK on the left side of the ledge at the top of pitch 1, just as you exit the finger crack that traverses left. I pulled it partly off the ledge and nearly went off with it. It should be trundled (someone was below us so we couldn't do it). Regarding the topo posted by Ben Crowell, it was much appreciated because I didn't have my climbing guide book with me and it was my first time on Tahquitz. Instead of the hanging belay under the arch on pitch 2, I recommend pulling over t... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Puppy Dome > Climbing on Face-book (5.4 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: Perhaps this climb and others on Puppy Dome were intentionally left out of the earlier guidebooks because the Yosemite Mountaineering School didn't want too many climbers on their training rock.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Puppy Dome > Climbing on Face-book (5.4 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: In the book "Tuolumne Topropes" by Rob Floyd, published in 2000 by Sharp End Publishing, it is named The Log 5.6. I free-soloed it onsight in 1985.


Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Tiger Tower > South Gully (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 29, 2017

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Comments: No. The gully to the right is reportedly class 4; if so, it should be easier. But I haven't climbed it.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Half Dome > Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 22, 2017

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Comments: A safer, easier and quicker alternate start for pitch 1 is climbing the right-facing lieback flakes about 20' to the left of the standard start. You can place cams in the flakes (or sling a small tree) and then climb the slab to the left edge of the small roof. If you fall off the slab before reaching the small roof (you won't), your highest cam (or sling on the tree) will prevent a ground fall. The alternate and standard starts are illustrated in this photo... more >>


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Angwin > Mossy Rock
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 22, 2017

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Comments: Peter P, I'm glad you enjoyed bouldering at Mossy Rock but sorry you got lost during the approach. I have reworded the directions to indicate that you must cross the dirt road. I live nearby and I'm certain the forest owned by the college and the adjacent forest owned by the state of California are open to the public. The signs are a warning for those who want to use the property for illicit purposes.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Falls Area > Swan Slab > Unnamed Crack (the other on... (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: Slick start for 5.9. I've seen these cracks referred to as Patio Cracks, in which case this route could be referred to as Patio Cracks--Right.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Falls Area > Swan Slab > Unnamed flared crack / boul... (5.8+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: I've seen these cracks referred to as Patio Cracks, in which case this route could be referred to as Patio Cracks--Left.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Falls Area > Swan Slab > Unnamed Crack (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: Reading through this for the first time since I wrote my comment in 2010, I see the source of confusion: the "Description" says "Just LEFT of the 5.8 alcove boulder problem" and the "Location" says "just to the RIGHT of the alcove boulder problem" (emphasis mine). The photograph reveals that the "Description" is wrong and the "Location" is accurate. There is another 5.8 alcove-like problem farther right, just left of Swan Slab Chimney, ... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Campground > Moosedog Tower > Tranquility (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: The route is much longer than 120' as described above, I'm pretty sure it's well over 200' to the rappel anchor. Climbing up the exposed arete of the original route was fun and easy, it felt like 5.5. I thought the crux move (5.6) of the climb was the first slab move to the final wide crack just below the summit.


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > Paul's Paradise > ... > The Burnt Penis (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Easiest start is on the right side of the arete.


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Mount St. Helena > The Far Side > Tradfest (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: Having given directions to a few parties lost on the "route" this past weekend, I decided to post a detailed topo (see jpg image file).


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Mount St. Helena > Silverado Mine > Overhang (5.9 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: After the right side of the overhang collapsed the route can still be climbed. Climbing the sharp right edge of the overhang is now 5.7 and the crux is thin 5.9 face climbing above, just left of the right arete. Leading the climb is still possible but more dangerous (rated R or X).


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Mount St. Helena > Silverado Mine > Left Corner (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: There are three bolts connected by chains at the top, but as of 03-11-14 the hanger was stolen off the left bolt.


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Mount St. Helena > Table Scraps Pinnacle > Monster Quest (5.10d)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: The first bolt is now missing, which seems to be a pattern at this crag. Is it pulling out when somebody falls or is somebody removing them?


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Mount St. Helena > The Far Side > 5.8 (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps it's the face climb left of Old Tradition or a direct start on the face below the overhang of Old Tradition?


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Mount St. Helena > The Far Side > Forrester's Crack (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Actually the thin crack at the top can take at least two sizes of small cams that fit very well.


Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Tiger Tower > South Gully (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: While approaching Wolf's Head in the dark we mistakenly climbed this gully rather than the easier gully on the right. I decided to post a description of the route so other climbers will have a better idea of what to avoid or what to expect if this gully is chosen.


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Sonoma Coast State Park > Goat Rock > Sunset Boulders
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: CHALK BAG FOUND: If you left behind a chalk bag on August 20, 2016, please send me a description of it and, if accurate, I will be happy to return it to you.


Location: California > San Francisco Bay Area > Wine Country > Sonoma Coast State Park > Goat Rock > Sunset Boulders
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: You will need to free solo or lead easy class 5 (5.4-5.6) to set up a top-rope on the best climbs at Ram Rock. Clipping one notorious bolt (above Sunset Slab) with a carabiner will cross load it on a ledge (I suggest girth hitching it with a sling). Slings and quick draws are all you need to set up top-rope anchors.


Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Pingora > South Buttress (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: If there is a class 3 way of getting to the main cracks, my partner and I didn't find it. From a big ledge at what appeared to be the base of the climb, we climbed the right crack (5.5 with rap rings at the top) of a short wall (40') to a big ledge where the main cracks begin about 15' to the right. We then climbed two pitches (80' and 170') to the base of K-Crack. Above K-Crack it is class 3 to the summit, there is no need to stay roped. ADDED LATER: Now I see why we needed ... more >>


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > ... > Composure (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: It's much shorter than 180', more like 120'.


Location: Utah > Echo Canyon > Roadside Crag
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Kudos to whoever established these routes. It was a quick and fun stop while driving home to California after climbing in Wyoming.


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