REI Community


Member Since: Jun 3, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Floyd Hayes

Point Rank: # 544
Total Points: 1,280

5 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Floyd Hayes been climbing?










Contributions


All 960 | Routes 78 | Areas 5 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements | Comments 256 | Posts | Stars 306 | Ratings 228
Page 1 of 11.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: A safer, easier and quicker alternate start for pitch 1 is climbing the right-facing lieback flakes about 20' to the left of the standard start. You can place cams in the flakes (or sling a small tree) and then climb the slab to the left edge of the small roof. If you fall off the slab before reaching the small roof (you won't), your highest cam (or sling on the tree) will prevent a ground fall. The alternate and standard starts are illustrated in this photo... more >>


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Angwin : Mossy Rock
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Peter P, I'm glad you enjoyed bouldering at Mossy Rock but sorry you got lost during the approach. I have reworded the directions to indicate that you must cross the dirt road. I live nearby and I'm certain the forest owned by the college and the adjacent forest owned by the state of California are open to the public. The signs are a warning for those who want to use the property for illicit purposes.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : Unnamed Crack (the other on... (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Slick start for 5.9. I've seen these cracks referred to as Patio Cracks, in which case this route could be referred to as Patio Cracks--Right.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : Unnamed flared crack / boul... (5.8+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I've seen these cracks referred to as Patio Cracks, in which case this route could be referred to as Patio Cracks--Left.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : Unnamed Crack (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Reading through this for the first time since I wrote my comment in 2010, I see the source of confusion: the "Description" says "Just LEFT of the 5.8 alcove boulder problem" and the "Location" says "just to the RIGHT of the alcove boulder problem" (emphasis mine). The photograph reveals that the "Description" is wrong and the "Location" is accurate. There is another 5.8 alcove-like problem farther right, just left of Swan Slab Chimney, ... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Tranquility (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The route is much longer than 120' as described above, I'm pretty sure it's well over 200' to the rappel anchor. Climbing up the exposed arete of the original route was fun and easy, it felt like 5.5. I thought the crux move (5.6) of the climb was the first slab move to the final wide crack just below the summit.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Paul's Paradise : ... : The Burnt Penis (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Easiest start is on the right side of the arete.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Tradfest (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Having given directions to a few parties lost on the "route" this past weekend, I decided to post a detailed topo (see jpg image file).


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : Overhang (5.9 R)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: After the right side of the overhang collapsed the route can still be climbed. Climbing the sharp right edge of the overhang is now 5.7 and the crux is thin 5.9 face climbing above, just left of the right arete. Leading the climb is still possible but more dangerous (rated R or X).


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : Left Corner (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Mar 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: There are three bolts connected by chains at the top, but as of 03-11-14 the hanger was stolen off the left bolt.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Monster Quest (5.10d)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Feb 13, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The first bolt is now missing, which seems to be a pattern at this crag. Is it pulling out when somebody falls or is somebody removing them?


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : 5.8 (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Perhaps it's the face climb left of Old Tradition or a direct start on the face below the overhang of Old Tradition?


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Forrester's Crack (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Actually the thin crack at the top can take at least two sizes of small cams that fit very well.


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Tiger Tower : South Gully (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: While approaching Wolf's Head in the dark we mistakenly climbed this gully rather than the easier gully on the right. I decided to post a description of the route so other climbers will have a better idea of what to avoid or what to expect if this gully is chosen.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : Sunset Boulders
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: CHALK BAG FOUND: If you left behind a chalk bag on August 20, 2016, please send me a description of it and, if accurate, I will be happy to return it to you.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : Sunset Boulders
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: You will need to free solo or lead easy class 5 (5.4-5.6) to set up a top-rope on the best climbs at Ram Rock. Clipping one notorious bolt (above Sunset Slab) with a carabiner will cross load it on a ledge (I suggest girth hitching it with a sling). Slings and quick draws are all you need to set up top-rope anchors.


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : South Buttress (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If there is a class 3 way of getting to the main cracks, my partner and I didn't find it. From a big ledge at what appeared to be the base of the climb, we climbed the right crack (5.5 with rap rings at the top) of a short wall (40') to a big ledge where the main cracks begin about 15' to the right. We then climbed two pitches (80' and 170') to the base of K-Crack. Above K-Crack it is class 3 to t... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Composure (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It's much shorter than 180', more like 120'.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : Roadside Crag
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Kudos to whoever established these routes. It was a quick and fun stop while driving home to California after climbing in Wyoming.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Ivory Coast (5.10d)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed it with friends back in December 2013. There were 8 protection bolts, plus the anchor. The last two bolts were farther right than I wanted; my left arm got really tired while clipping them! We thought it was easier than 5.10d--although we finished on the crack (apparently the 5.10a way), which we thought was the way the route was supposed to go (we didn't even consider climbing right of the crack).
Rock Climbing Photo: Floyd Hayes near the top of Ivory Coast on 20 Dece...
Floyd Hayes near the top of Ivory Coast on 20 December 2013. Photo from a video by Andrew Taylor.



Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed here with two partners in November 2013. We only had time to lead two routes and we top-roped a third. On each route we knocked off several baseball-to-canteloupe sized rocks that had to be dodged by the two of us below, so it's a potentially dangerous place to climb.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Weasel Buttress Center (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Two of us led it onsight and a third climber top-roped it in November 2013. We thought it felt like 5.7.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Weasel Buttress Right (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Two of us top-roped this in November 2013. We thought the right-facing dihedral, which was fun to climb, was 5.8. The rotten face above was harder, feeling like 5.9. My partner pulled off a few baseball-to-softball sized rocks off the rotten face.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Macondo (5.10a)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Two of us led this and a third climber top-roped it in November 2013. Before reaching the first bolt, I pulled off a cantaloupe-sized rock that fell 15 feet and grazed the arm of a partner, Andrew Taylor, while he was shooting video.
Rock Climbing Photo: Screen shot from video by Andrew Taylor of Floyd H...
Screen shot from video by Andrew Taylor of Floyd Hayes accidentally pulling off a large rock on Macondo.



Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Saviour Heart (5.9 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Having climbed the crack to the left several times, I realized it was a distinct line sharing only a few holds with Saviour Heart. The crack was first climbed in the early 1960s (see Jerry Dodrill's comment above), so I've added a description of the route as Forrester's Crack.


Page 1 of 11.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About