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Member Since: Nov 9, 2007
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,740
Total Points: 179
Last Year: 33
Last 30 Days: 2
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1673 | Routes | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 134 | Posts 1427 | Stars 85 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Aruba
By: Fat Dad When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Here's a video of Chris Sharma climbing some really interesting looking stuff there:
climbing.com/videos/chris-shar...


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Wow, not much respect for Largo's comments. Derision is probably a better word. Let those of you who have done a tenth of what he has offer thoughtful rebuttals. Those who haven't, consider your credibility for weighing in. I suppose you would criticize as dinosaurs those questioning a retro bolt of Perilous Journey. The issue isn't accessibility for all; it's about style as a preservation method for t... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Terrific shot that captures well the feeling of the place.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : S Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for adding this. I climbed the South Face a couple of years ago so was curious about this route, having the chance to eyeball it for several pitches. My only comment is about the first pitch, which we inadvertently climbed, not knowing where the start of the South Face was. I'd hesitate to call it 5.9+. It felt more like a standard, not so well protected, grunt 5.8 chimney that you might find in the Valley. Having said that, chimney ratings are pretty personal, pa... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Horse Flats : Main Area : T - Boulder
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Isn't this B-1 Boulder?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Nice shot. Never seen this climb from this perspective.


Location: Ney : Album : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 4, 2016

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Comments: Nice!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Like Vlad, I found a heel hook on the third pitch crux to be key.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: I did this climb last weekend and, with the small tree gone on the first pitch, had complete dementia as where you normally belay. This was compounded by a set of belay bolts that someone recently installed that are down and right of where the tree used to be. Avoid these, obviously. Once past the big tree, head up and right toward the small stump sticking out of the crack, which is where lots of folks used to belay. Nowadays, I'd recommend climbing a few feet past it to ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : Scandalous Summer (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Really fun climb. Despite a good number of bolts, it should be considered trad bolted (although generous by Tuolumne standards), not a sport climb. If the top is wet, which it is early season, you can climb up and right from the last bolt, though it's a little stiffer than 5.7. Some will feel better by bringing a gold camalot to place above the last bolt. Finally, given the traffic from the three routes leading to Blitzo's Terrace, some thought should ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : White Lie (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: This looks like a great climb but I don't understand the rationale for placing the first bolt so high. In addition, there is no (natural) belay anchor and there's about 50 ft. of slab beneath the small ledge you belay from. If the leader slips before clipping the first bolt, you're both going to take a really nasty tumble.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Great Pumpkin (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Let me point out to those unfamiliar with So Cal climbing history. This route was put up by TWO face masters, Kamps and Bud '"Ivan" Couch, who put up Valhalla (.11a) at Suicide, the route one had to lead to become a Stonemaster.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Jonah (5.10c)
By: Fat Dad When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Great picture of Tom Higgins climbing this in Climbing in North America by Chris Jones (if you can find a copy).


Location: CA : High Sierra : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: Nice photo. I've been dying to get back in there (Cloud Canyon), but it's quite a walk.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Canyon Boulders : Fritz Face (V6)
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: There's a video on youtube of some strong but skilless doofus trying the same maneuver. Like many flakes at Stoney, it's not going to be there for long with people wanking on it like that.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Toddler Terrace : Wheels on the Bus (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb. Different than most Malibu Creek routes in that its more edgey than pocketed. Some friable holds through the crux so use them gingerly.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Heart Route (Free) (5.13b V10) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Awesome shot.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: I don't ever remember hearing anything about a .13b grade (but then I'm not a Gunkie). I remember reading the Hudon/Jones article in Mountain (66 or 67) about what I think is their second ascent and I don't recall that they ever referred to it as anything other than hard 12. Plus, didn't Steve Wunsch do the first ascent, not Kauk?


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : UCLA : Bruin Walk : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: I was at UCLA from '83 to '85, and then grad school from '87 to '90. I never met let alone saw another climber the whole time I was there. How did I not hear about this?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : Ursula (5.10c PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Pitch 1 is definitely the technical crux, but pitch 3 is the true test of your face climbing chops.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : South Crack (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Definitely warrants an R rating for all but the most competent slab climbers (and even then it's still run). Let's put it this way, I climbed Ursula (.10c, trad bolted per the usual Tuolumne standards) on Dozier Dome the day before, and was glad I did when I got to the 5.7 pitch. It's just 5.7, but since it's the Meadows you'll be much more relaxed if you're solid at the grade.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : The Howling (5.10a PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Terrific route to a terrific summit. This route really encapsulates the exposed, out there feeling of climbing at the Needles. Two comments.

First, the descriptions that mention a short second pitch to reach the rap anchors pertain only if you climb the right of the two cracks. We climbed the left, which leads directly to the rap anchors. Second, contrary to what some have written here, I found the moves getting to the first bolt way more heady than climbing the crux past the bolts themselv... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Polar Bears in Bondage (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Kind of fun but kind of a sandbag as far as the rating. I thought the thin crack down low felt substantially harder than the 5.7 next door, harder even than the 5.9 a couple routes over. Easier if you're taller.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: Great photo, though the hard part isn't reaching the holds. The hard part is pushing out that mantle.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Iron Door Cave Boulder : IDC Problem (V2)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: Fun problem. Word is apparently out on social media about the cave though. I was out there last weekend and there was a conga line of people stretching from Hidden Valley CG to the cave. Felt like the crowds at Lower Yosemite Falls.


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