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Member Since: Nov 9, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 16,270
Total Points: 5

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Fat Dad been climbing?










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All 1825 | Routes | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 145 | Posts 1561 | Stars 88 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 6, 2017

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Comments: Does anyone else think that this climb feels every bit as hard as Five & Dime (10d) or other 5.10+ climbs in the Valley?

No. This is pretty standard .10. Of course, if you don't do a lot of OW, the top will feel harder. As you noted, the FAs did this with relatively primitive gear. I did it as a 16 yr. old in 1980 with one cam and just a sling around a chockstone at the base of the OW. It's just part of the Valley experience.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 4, 2017

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Comments: The boulder looks pristine in this photo compared to how it looks now. Lots of polish and surface grit worn off, and absolutely no plant life anywhere near the boulder.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: Great shot. Been out to Josh after it's snowed, but nowhere near that much.


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Planet of the Apes Wall : Monkey Sang, Monkey Do (5.11c)
By: Fat Dad When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: You've credited Jack Marshall with several first ascents on the middle portion of the wall. However, I climbed here alot in the late 80s and early 90s and just about everything had been climbed by then. Not anchors at the top for everything, but climbed all the same.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 22, 2017

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Comments: Lots of shots of this climb with full on tapes gloves. Honestly, I can think of one move where tape might be nice for one hand, depending on the sequence you use, but even then it's kind of optional.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Hobbit Hole Boulder : Patina (V2)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: This might be V1 if you're tall, otherwise I'd say it's V2.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Happy Boulders : ... : Heavenly Path (V1 PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 25, 2016

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Comments: Great problem, though I agree that the V1 rating is probably more appropriate for the commitment factor. Lots of inexperienced climbers throwing themselves on this, some of whom look really sketch on the upper part. Saw a strong dude grunt and shake his way up the upper face without without even placing his feet. Had to look away. Bring pads. There's a small boulder sticking out of the ground near the base that a local told me someone had fallen on recently and broken th... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 16, 2016

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Comments: Yes, but a nice shot all the same. The sign of a good photo is that it gets you psyched to go out and do the climb.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Etude (5.11a)
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 7, 2016

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Comments: I think it's probably appropriate that (most of) the fixed pins were removed. We often clip them without the ability to test them and confirm whether they're good or not. Plus, they can be a magnet for people leaving tat when bailing. When I did this climb, someone had tied a fat piece of 1" webbing through the top pin, so I couldn't clip into the pin itself. I had to fire wondering whether the webbing (or the pin) wo... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 5, 2016

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Comments: I've noticed some new chipping as well. Someone has been carving out a pocket behind the left starting hold of Masters of Reality, which doesn't make the start any easier and will certainly shorten that hold's lifespan.

Also, a reminder to PLEASE wait a few days to climb after it rains. The big jug at the top of Hoof and Mouth completely sheared off. Given that it appears to have happened after a couple of good downpours, I have t... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : B1 Boulder : Master of Reality (V5)
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 5, 2016

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Comments: Can whoever decided to chip a pocket behind the left starting hold please stop? It doesn't make the problem any easier and will compromise the strength and longevity of that hold.


Location: North America : Aruba
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: Here's a video of Chris Sharma climbing some really interesting looking stuff there:
climbing.com/videos/chris-shar...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Wow, not much respect for Largo's comments. Derision is probably a better word. Let those of you who have done a tenth of what he has offer thoughtful rebuttals. Those who haven't, consider your credibility for weighing in. I suppose you would criticize as dinosaurs those questioning a retro bolt of Perilous Journey. The issue isn't accessibility for all; it's about style as a preservation method for t... more >>


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Terrific shot that captures well the feeling of the place.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : S Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for adding this. I climbed the South Face a couple of years ago so was curious about this route, having the chance to eyeball it for several pitches. My only comment is about the first pitch, which we inadvertently climbed, not knowing where the start of the South Face was. I'd hesitate to call it 5.9+. It felt more like a standard, not so well protected, grunt 5.8 chimney that you might find in the Valley. Having said that, chimney ratings are pretty personal, pa... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Horse Flats : Main Area : T - Boulder
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Isn't this B-1 Boulder?


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Nice shot. Never seen this climb from this perspective.


Location: Ney Grant : Album : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 4, 2016

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Comments: Nice!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Like Vlad, I found a heel hook on the third pitch crux to be key.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: I did this climb last weekend and, with the small tree gone on the first pitch, had complete dementia as where you normally belay. This was compounded by a set of belay bolts that someone recently installed that are down and right of where the tree used to be. Avoid these, obviously. Once past the big tree, head up and right toward the small stump sticking out of the crack, which is where lots of folks used to belay. Nowadays, I'd recommend climbing a few feet past it to ... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : Scandalous Summer (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Really fun climb. Despite a good number of bolts, it should be considered trad bolted (although generous by Tuolumne standards), not a sport climb. If the top is wet, which it is early season, you can climb up and right from the last bolt, though it's a little stiffer than 5.7. Some will feel better by bringing a gold camalot to place above the last bolt. Finally, given the traffic from the three routes leading to Blitzo's Terrace, some thought should ... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : White Lie (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: This looks like a great climb but I don't understand the rationale for placing the first bolt so high. In addition, there is no (natural) belay anchor and there's about 50 ft. of slab beneath the small ledge you belay from. If the leader slips before clipping the first bolt, you're both going to take a really nasty tumble.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Great Pumpkin (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Let me point out to those unfamiliar with So Cal climbing history. This route was put up by TWO face masters, Kamps and Bud '"Ivan" Couch, who put up Valhalla (.11a) at Suicide, the route one had to lead to become a Stonemaster.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Jonah (5.10c)
By: Fat Dad When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Great picture of Tom Higgins climbing this in Climbing in North America by Chris Jones (if you can find a copy).


Location: California : High Sierra : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: Nice photo. I've been dying to get back in there (Cloud Canyon), but it's quite a walk.


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