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Member Since: Jun 14, 2011
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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Contributions


All 655 | Routes 33 | Areas 7 | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 55 | Posts 14 | Stars 287 | Ratings 239
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: farkas.time When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: Great pitch, but got a #1 Master Cam stuck at crux. If retrieved, please call 303.818.9238 for your reward!

tim


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : Elegant Monkey (5.6)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: Hardest 5.6 I've climbed in CT for sure. More like 5.8 -- thought I was off route! Keep on stemming. Pro is fiddly but present. Top is vertical/overhung crux.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : Pegasus (5.8)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic climbing, and an excellent lead for aspiring 5.8 climbers. Forget the face -- climb the corner!

Belay or top-rope off the giant boulder on top -- I used a 30' sling.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : Mind Bender Direct (5.10- PG13)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: agree start left of slab in 5.8ish Pegasus-like corner. Way fun. Crux is gaining short slabby section after vertical about 1/2 way up. Gear is thin thereafter. I found the #4 Camalot (under roof), small wires, and micro cams crucial for protection through the second half. The roof is thrilling at 5.8 or so.

Achoring at the top was a pain -- scope it out first. I used a tree 30' to climbers right and the Pegasus boulder.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock
By: farkas.time When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Pinnacle Rock is a really nice little crag with a great diversity of climbing across grades (which are generally a grade soft IMO). First Crack (5.4) could be one of the best beginner leads anywhere ever, Zambezi Hatchet Head (5.8) and Second Crack (5.7) are great leads (each with a little spooky runout), and The Entertainer (5.10) and Tasmanian Devil (5.10+) are great harder top-ropes worth a few reps each. Notable for me (and my partner, who listened to me hoot and holler about it all day), tr... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall
By: farkas.time When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Bolted anchor atop 2nd Crack missing.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Emerald City Slab : Scarecrow (5.7 R)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Finishing up left of Cowardly Lion is fun.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Piccola : ... : Photo
By: farkas.time When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: This photo makes the main line appear to be up the arete, which is it not. See my beta photo. The decent line is useful.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ...
By: farkas.time When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: Tre cime has dozens of routes. Separating this into sub-areas, such as each peak, and even sub-sub areas with each face would be worthwhile to facilitate the development of this area as people add routes.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Piccola : Cima Piccola – South Arete... (5.9+)
By: farkas.time When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: A few things.

1) This climb is totally awesome. Get it!
2) The route description here is one of about 100 ways to get up there. Get a good topo, follow the general trend, and look for pins or new bolts to anchor belays. Many regions of the climb are wide open for your creativity. There are bizillions of bolts and anchors set up all over this rock, so don't assume you're "on route" if you're at some shiney new anchors.
3) Bring a singe rack of cams to 3" and a rack of nuts. While some guide bo... more >>


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Stanage Edge : ... : Hollybush Crack Area
By: farkas.time When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Order here from left to right:

1) Hollybush Crack
2) Queersville
3) The Nose
4) Yosemite Wall
5) Leaning Buttress Gully
6) Hangover
7) Leaning Buttress Direct
8) Leaning Buttress Indirect
9) Leaning Buttress Crack
10) Garden Wall (see superfluous Garden Wall area)
11) Chockstone Direct
12) Beech Tree Wall


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Stanage Edge : ... : Queersville (5.9 PG13)
By: farkas.time When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: A great climb. Reachy and heady. While the gear is good, it's not abundant, and you're constantly having to make long, committing moves above your placements. Definitely height dependent. Easily 5.10 if you're short. Enjoy!


Location: Europe : United Kingdom
By: farkas.time When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Mountain Project is generally not so great for UK climbing. I add almost every climb I do here, but if you're looking for a more nearly comprehensive list of climbs and areas, see ukclimbing.com. I prefer Mountain Project in layout, but it's just not all there. Develop!


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Rivelin Valley : ... : Croton Oil (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: I found the protection to be a bit fiddly -- not a good first 5.9/5.10 lead, but the climb is quite excellent, with really nice exposure and a lovely position high above the Rivelin Valley.

The OW start is pretty cool (kneebar!), but is a bit contrived, given it's only 10 feet of climbing, it's useless to try and protect it, and you can just walk around.

The rappel chain is a little sketchy -- it's thin, rusty, and you can't check half of it. If I knew how to install a couple bolts, I would.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Got a #1 BD cam stuck low down today [blush]. Pretty wedged. I'll go back for it with some tools soon, but if you manage to get it out in the meantime, please call 303 621 4250. Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10a)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: My first 5.10 trad lead today. Super safe, super fun. Do it! Found Chockstone (5.10a) substantially harder.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7+)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Despite rumor of mid-way pro, the upper half of the flake is hugely run out with rack up to #4 C4. If leading this: 1) be solid at 5.9, and 2) don't climb it in the heat/sun -- it's a friction/stemming slab climb with very few proper holds. Going IN the OW seemed like a bad idea to me -- I climbed on the outside of the flake. The 60m of climbing following the flake was 5.7 PHENOMENAL. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Fool (5.10c)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: I think this route is OK. The low crux is tricky and a little awkward, but the rest of the climb is nice. It's a good warm-up once you know the crux beta.


Location: VT : Jamaica
By: farkas.time When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: There is some potential, but it's undeveloped. Would take a lot of wire brushing. I see some short leads and maybe a bunch of boulder problems.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
By: farkas.time When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Does anybody know what the bolted route is just to the right of Dementia and to the left of Cheers? It follows the left-facing arete/flake making the giant overhanging V-slot finger crack of Dementia. I've topped it a couple times now and it feels much harder than Cheers to me.

Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Nightcap (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun.

I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Chouette (5.6)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Excellent climb. I gave this one 5.7. Definitely an easy-moderate but some difficult movement on small holds in places. Not a cake walk.

Bring a #0.5 Camalot for the start and some small nuts for the mid-section. Alternatively, if you're solid at 5.6, don't bother with trad gear -- these spots are on the easy side for this climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: If you're not good at fist and hand jamming, like me, that zig-zag crack at the top is pretty scary, but there is good pro (Camalots #1-3), and the fall would be pretty safe. It definitely earns the "+".

We soloed to the top of the start boulder and did the entire route in one long pitch with a 60m rope. I think it was close to all the rope though. A 70m rope would be more prudent for anchor building at the top. Rope drag wasn't really an issue, so if you're looking to get up and down qui... more >>


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Froggatt Edge : ... : Gamma (5.3)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: The traverse is easy (5.0), but unprotected. British grading puts this route at S 4a. An all around enjoyable beginner piece. Good practice for double ropes.


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Froggatt Edge : ... : Sickle Buttress (5.3)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: Pictured here is somebody climbing Sickle Buttress DIRECT (VS 5a =~ 5.9). The 5.3 route trends right about 1/3 up, rather than going straight to the top.


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