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Member Since: Aug 15, 2007
Last Visit: Feb 26, 2013
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Evan1984 been climbing?


All 1083 | Routes | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts 1030 | Stars | Ratings
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Contributed Comments


Location: Alaska : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Juneau : Mendenhall Towers : Iron Curtian (5.12a) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Dec 30, 2011

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Comments: pretty impressive. Nice work

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Private Hell (5.10a) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Oct 1, 2011

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Comments: What a great pattern in that rock!

Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Kiddy Crack (5.7)
By: Evan1984 When: Jun 4, 2011

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Comments: This is a good, fun route to warm up or wind down on. The lieback start is a somewhat thuggish crux, but good technique makes it over quickly. After the little ledge, thoughtful climbing takes you to the top.

PLEASE- protect the start before you set off. A slip on the start will have you falling either ankle or tailbone first into a nice pointed rock at the base. A .75 BD Camalot can very easily be placed high in the lieback crack from a stance before you set off. Keep a tight belay and ... more >>

Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6)
By: Evan1984 When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: We surprisingly got this route to ourselves today, Memorial Day.

We did the traverse pitched but elected to rap(2 ropes) rather than climb the wet third pitch. Water is seeping from the corner down the face off of the first pin on the third pitch. Just FYI.

This is a great climb. The upper portions are also worthwhile.

Location: Bueno : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: just tell her the thorny bushes at the bottom will break the fall.

Nice pic.

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: Common advice is to french free the bolt ladder on quickdraws. This works fine, but is strenuous.

Make sure that both partners are able to do this or bring ascenders for the second.

Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : ... : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Don't you mean "terrors"?

I've got a pair, too.

Gotta love them

Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Northern Revival (5.12c PG13) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: This is a great shot:

great route
great aspect
great partner dynamics.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 C1-2) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 10, 2010

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Comments: I love the overkill of the locking biner in conjunction with the piece!

Location: Georgia : Mount Yonah : Main Face : Stannard's Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Mar 3, 2010

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Comments: that is about the coolest move on a 5.8 ever

Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 30, 2010

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Comments: cause it's the 909

Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Wheelin N' Dealin (5.13c R) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 15, 2010

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Comments: I'm so happy for that helmet. Awesome shot!

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Triple Direct (5.9 C2-) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Thank you for the service!

Location: Mike Lane : Misc. : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 8, 2010

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Comments: pull the roof, man, pull the roof!

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Gunsmoke Area : ... : High Noon (V5)
By: Evan1984 When: Dec 27, 2009

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Comments: +1 for a least for us roped up wimps

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: Good thing you got them at REI.

Location: John Shultz : JAZZ : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: Apparently, those Calif bears have learned to do everything except read.

Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Lung (5.8)
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: Been on this twice and chickened out and hung both times before easily pulling the crux.

My advice is to protect the crux from the stance. Then,do as I say, not as I do. Sack up and pull the move. It's over quickly. I can get a great #3 BD down a little low in the crux and a 1/.75 from the stance.
Just make sure to protect it.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Klingon (5.9 R)
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: There are ample opportunities to sling things and place gear to back up the bolt. I always bring some long pieces of webbing to setting up Tr at Gibraltar

Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : ... : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Oct 18, 2009

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Comments: terrier owning climbers unite!

Like this

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things I Never Learned (5.9)
By: Evan1984 When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: This is a one move wonder, but puts a smile on your face. Worth doing.

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lady and the Tramp (5.4)
By: Evan1984 When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: I just did this and clip a dee yesterday. Who knew that 5.4 clip ups could be so fun?

The fall colors are prime right now and this is motivation enough.

One thing to note is that you need two ropes if you are planning to rappel from the first belay anchors. Finishing the pitch 2 and walking off is 100% prefferable and more polite to other users as this is well traveled. That said, some people were trying to rap the pitch and ran into problems. It is a casual down climb, though.

Location: Andrew Krosbakken : Climbing '08 : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Sep 13, 2009

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Comments: What is your reasoning behind cliping the way you do on the right? Sure, if you make sure the carabiner is not contacting anything AND you stand right by it to make sure it doesn't shift, its fine.

However, most of the time, you can go directly through the knot(still keep direction of pull in mind). Otherwise, you could use a bowline and tie off the tree or a basket hitch, which doesn't have the problem of cinching down and risking contacting the tree. Incidentally, I'm going more and more t... more >>

Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Ana Mountains : Ortega Falls : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Wow!!! That's really great of you guys to take the time and $ to do that.

Thank you very much!

Location: Maine : Jockey Cap
By: Evan1984 When: Jul 29, 2009

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Comments: We went out to see this place because I'd heard some good things.

Basically, the mosquitos drove us off in 10 minutes. They are worse than Alaska(at least on 7/28/09).

There look to be some cool boulders and some hard sport, but, IMHO, it is not worth the stop considering that cathederal and whitehorse are 30 minutes away.

  • **EDIT-UPDATE***
I went back a couple days this summer and mosquitos were much better, so I think it is hit or miss.

I found the moderate trad cragging, which looks fu... more >>

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