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Member Since: Oct 3, 2012
Last Visit: 25 mins ago
Contact evan h

evan h
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Point Rank: # 3,041
Total Points: 185

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has evan h been climbing?










Contributions


All 1181 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 38 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 348 | Stars 387 | Ratings 359
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Energy Crag : Crucifriction (V6-)
By: evan h When: Jul 8, 2017

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Comments: So I think this felt easier than V6, because I used the more obvious, left sidepull to start the problem instead of the small, flat crimp indicated in the beta photo. Maybe using the crimp honors V6 a bit more, but the sidepull seems like the obvious choice for a start hold. I only realized this after the fact, but judging from all the chalk, I'm not the only one! Really fun problem!


Location: Colorado : Idaho Springs : Loch Lomond : Reynolds Lake : R2 Boulder : Jar Jar Binks (V3-)
By: evan h When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Is this the problem on the SW face that begins on a sloper with a two finger crimp for the left hand? I thought this problem was fun and harder than the other V3 listed here. It's mostly one move but still requires some body tension to finish it up.


Location: Colorado : Idaho Springs : Loch Lomond : Reynolds Lake : R2 Boulder : A Little Bit Smaller (V3)
By: evan h When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: I'm assuming this problem is on the NE arete?


Location: Colorado : Idaho Springs : Loch Lomond : Space Boulders : Moon Boulder : Apollo 11 (V5)
By: evan h When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Great problem, requiring careful movement and body tension. The face bakes in the sun until about 1 or 2pm in the summer.


Location: Colorado : Idaho Springs : Loch Lomond
By: evan h When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: A few thoughts after my first visit:

In general, this place is quite cool and worth a visit, especially for banging out boulders at the moderate grades. It's much more scenic than I expected as well. There are a number of hikers, but we only saw two climbers arriving as we were leaving.

A note on the approach: even if you have a high clearance vehicle, if the gate isn't open (it wasn't yet, early July 2017), you're looking at about 50 minutes of approach to get to Reynolds Lake... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall
By: evan h When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: So many link-ups and so few topo photos....


Location: Nevada : Arrow Canyon : Swamp Cave : Unknown 10d (5.11a)
By: evan h When: Apr 1, 2017

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Comments: Is this supposed to be "Sherpa James" as described in the new Limestone Bible guide? Based on the description here it is, and I'd agree with the guidebook rating of 11b.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Head Up Dirty (5.12)
By: evan h When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: Another data point: with a 5'6" wingspan, this still goes, but you're going to have to work in the roof (and do a bit of jumping down low)! Full on Sharma dyno to the lip, and controlling the swing proved to be the most difficult. The undercling crimp is garbage, and I am not sure how much better it was prior to breaking (mentioned above). I'd say maybe 12a to the rest (classic moves), then anywhere from 12a/b to 12+ for ... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Aspen Glade : The Aspen Glade : Lonely Are the Brave (5.11a)
By: evan h When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: Yes tried to delete but it's not being processed. Admin?


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Dome : How Can A Monkey Jump Over ... (5.12)
By: evan h When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: So with all that being said above, would anyone be opposed to me placing extended chain permadraws on the corner bolts and potentially moving the lip bolt if the permadraws don't solve the rope-in-crack issue? Not only is the rope threading an issue, but cleaning those draws when lowering feels just as hard as climbing it! If no one is opposed, I'm happy to do the work.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Dome : How Can A Monkey Jump Over ... (5.12)
By: evan h When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: I only gave this one burn, so take my observations with me a grain of salt, but I noted a potentially dangerous rope situation when pulling out of the roof onto the final headwall. The rope threaded into a sharp crack and was practically stuck when I tried to move and clip the final bolts. I extended 3-4 bolts before the roof, but I could not find a way to extend the two bolts in the corner sequence (mid-crux). The rope only cleared the crack when I lowered down and unclipped one of the draws. A... more >>


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Photo
By: evan h When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Good edition, Geoff.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : The Strike (5.12)
By: evan h When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: This route has some good climbing, save for a couple of awkward sections. As far as the grade, it's harder than El Gato and Mufasa, but probably not by much.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Scantily Trad (5.12b)
By: evan h When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: A really cool route with some fun gymnastic moves. Don't let the trad classification scare you away. The business is all on bolts, and you could honestly bring no gear, although it would certainly be an airy finish. I placed a BD 0.3 and 0.4 which more than sewed it up.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : Prowler (5.10b/c)
By: evan h When: May 28, 2016

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Comments: By popular demand, this route now has an independent lower anchor. See Mill Creek Block page for details.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : Watch Your Dog (5.11b)
By: evan h When: May 28, 2016

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Comments: By popular demand, this route now has an independent lower anchor. See Mill Creek Block page for details.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block
By: evan h When: May 28, 2016

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Comments: The two face routes, Better Watch Your Dog and The Prowler, now both have independent anchors. I spoke with many who found the upper anchor inconvenient at best and potentially dangerous at worst, so I decided to go ahead and put these in. I used one lead bolt of the Prowler, as this was the best location to end the route. Richard's bolts and anchors are still in place should you wish to go to the top.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : The Strike (5.12)
By: evan h When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I added a two bolt anchor for a new line (Mufasa) that begins directly to the left (and shares the first bolt) of The Strike. This anchor can now be used to finish The Strike and avoid the low 5th class scramble to the upper chains. Richard's original bolts are still usable if you want to take the glory lap to the top.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Last summer I placed two quicklinks on each of the anchor rings to promote lowering without wearing the rings (which would require full replacement of the bolt). I returned on Saturday to find them missing. These were obviously placed for a reason, so I'd appreciate it if you can return them. I put time and money into placing them there. Thanks.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.12d)
By: evan h When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Really a fantastic route with variable styles of climbing! It's unique to immediately switch from powerful roof moves to delicate and tenuous slab climbing. My thoughts on the lower crux: definitely go direct for full flavor, although I would disagree that it clocks in at V6 once your beta is dialed (I've never sent or even come close to sending a proper V6). I also at first explored the left variation, as it is easier, but it felt a bit off route and obviously skirted a more direct approach. Ev... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10)
By: evan h When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Monty, thanks for your efforts on this. This route has been on my mental to-do list of dodgy bolts. I climbed this yesterday and immediately noticed the new bomber hardware!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : Southwest Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: evan h When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: I'm fairly certain this isn't the last pitch. This looks like what we did as the start to P5, and I wondered if we were off route (felt stiff for 5.8). I climbed this and cut around right into the sun on what I was certain was the described 5.8 corner, but I wasn't sure about the bottom section.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: Absolutely. Brush and clean at will.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Strong Force (5.11d)
By: evan h When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun route with a definite crux pulling the roof. Some clever sequencing and body positioning are key. I'd also recommend stick clipping the second bolt. I'm glad you got this wall polished up, Richard; it's a fun new addition! In the heat, I wouldn't have argued with soft 12a, but with cooler conditions, I'd say it's fair at 11d.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Cool, Richard, glad you enjoyed it. You're right, I did stay direct and a bit left by doing a sequence that involved a fairly burly, left shoulder move off the high gaston. I experimented with some moves out right, but I have T-Rex syndrome and couldn't make the reaches work for me. If there's a logical sequence, I'll make a point to get back up there with a brush and open up a few more options. Glad to hear there's not a significantly easier sequence at least! Some of the black schist is garbag... more >>


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