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Member Since: May 15, 2009
Last Visit: Dec 25, 2017
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Evan Deis
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Point Rank: # 4,287
Total Points: 157

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Evan Deis been climbing?










Contributions


All 272 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 16 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 61 | Posts 27 | Stars 125 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Little Valley > Pinky Tower > Ring Sizer (5.10 PG13)
By: Evan Deis When: Nov 27, 2017

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Comments: When I was leading I did the second traverse with my hands in the crack. Then when cleaning I walked on that same crack and found it was much easier that way.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Arches National Park > The Three Gossips > Be There or Be Talked About (5.11 C1)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: We did this in four pitches, as there are four bolted anchors.

Recommend (singles) thru #0.5, (Triples) #0.75 Thru #2, (1x) #3, (2x) #4 & #5, (1x) #6. Aiders for the bolt-ladder.

Anchors are in good shape (each is a drilled-angle paired with a button-head) but you'll want a knife to clean old tat. Bolt-Ladder is a bit of a horror-show.

We rapped from the summit to the third anchor with a single sixty, and then from the third anchor, straight to the ground with doubled sixties.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Arches National Park > Devil Dog Spire > Industrial Disease (5.11+ PG13)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: Seemed like 11+ to me. Pretty soft. Had to haul gear twice. You'll be glad to have lots in the .5 size. Also: We couldn't find the register. Anyone else?


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Tusher Canyon > Aeolian Tower > Etesian Hookup (5.9 A2 PG13)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 5, 2017

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Comments: "Inconspicuous but somewhat decent protection," he says. That section was horrifying.


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > McInnis Canyons > Pitchfork Tower - From the ... (5.8)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: Took a single rack in addition to the recommended rack. There is a #0.5 placement at the end of the second pitch, but there are otherwise no opportunities to use anything smaller than a #3. I used 1x #0.5, 1x #3, 3x #4, 2x #5, 1x #6, and 1x #5 Bigbro.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Bowling Alley > Main Crag > Woody's Landlord (5.7)
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 15, 2017

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Comments: This is a pretty bad pitch, but when it cleans up, it might still be bad.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Navajolands > Cleopatra's Needle Area > Venus Needle, East Face (5.10- A1-2 PG13) > Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Apr 5, 2017

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Comments: That's an awesome photo.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Culvert Canyon > Golden Nugget Spire (aka Ha...
By: Evan Deis When: Apr 4, 2017

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Comments: Do you mean that neither of those names come from the FA?


Location: Utah > Moab Area > River Road > The Sorcerer > The Sorcerer (5.11d)
By: Evan Deis When: Apr 4, 2017

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Comments: P3 is a nice squeeze chimney like Charlie Sheen a good father figure. Single rack is good. (2x) 5+6. I also recommend 2-3 tips sized pieces. I had 1x purple Mastercam and wish I'd had more. This will help backup an old leaper at the start of p3.

'Big thanks to Dunn, Coyne, and Wood for this wild and unique experience.
Other thanks to Shanti for the new anchors.

Also; It could be my imagination but I think this route deserves an S Rating.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Culvert Canyon > Golden Nugget Spire (aka Ha...
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: What does it mean? Aka hangnail? Which is it? FA party should name.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > River Road > Indian Chief > Talking Bull (5.7)
By: Evan Deis When: Feb 27, 2017

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Comments: Thanks. Edited.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Culvert Canyon > Gold Bar Tower > Au-Spice (5.10+ PG13)
By: Evan Deis When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: If anyone knows the FA details of this route please send them over and I will update the route description.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Desert Shield Buttress > Desert Shield (5.11a C3) > Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: Some things never change.


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Roof Ranch > Squat (5.12-)
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Jay Anderson. Yep!


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Unaweep Canyon > Gateway Vicinity aka The We... > Gateway > ... > Banana Hammock (5.11)
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Hey. Here are our notes from the FA. Glad you guys found the route! That roof is pretty nasty huh?
We had been calling this formation The Fruit basket. There's a coffee table book that the owner of the hotel put out. He calls the formation Trident. Where did you find the brighams name?
Sorry for the rough notes. We had planned to clean them up before the write-up.

Banana Hammock
5.11, or 5.10 C1, 3P
F/A 11/2013 Joel Irby, Dave Hoven, Evan Deis
Whereabouts: The route climbs the Sout... more >>


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Island In The Sky > Evan's Overlook > Broke Dick (5.10- PG13)
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: That probably true Tony.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Kane Springs Canyon > Happy Turk Hoodoo > The Happy Turk (5.8 C1) > Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: That's a fine job.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Tusher Canyon > Echo Pinnacle > Free Window Route (5.11a) > Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Andrew


Location: Utah > Moab Area > 191 South > Joe Wilson Canyon > Feeding the Rat (5.7 C2 PG13) > Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: That #3 looks pretty nasty!


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Long Canyon > Offwidth City > The Mayor (5.11d)
By: Evan Deis When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: Dang


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Master Blaster > Trip Master Monkey (5.12)
By: Evan Deis When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Dang.


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Rough Canyon > Tabeguache Tower (5.9+ A1 R)
By: Evan Deis When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: A beak ladder? It seems to me that if one drills a hole, he should install a bolt. What is the thinking here?


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Onion Creek > Sari > East Face (5.6 A3)
By: Evan Deis When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: The route does not end at the ledge with anchors. One can traverse around the back side and top out the summit block. Then downclimb the block to the anchors.
This is a clean aid tower! Leave your bongs in the car.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > City of Boulder > CU Campus > Engineering Center > Dihedral (5.11- V2)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Cool thanks for the info, BC!


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Nautilus > Whipping Boy (5.11c)
By: Evan Deis When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Excellent climb. Not nice. It is possible to get a tipped out #6 before committing to the crux (this is your first pro if you've soloed the chimney). A second large piece would be nice to have.


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