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Member Since: Sep 18, 2012
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Erik Pikas

Erik Pikas
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Point Rank: # 3,266
Total Points: 165

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Erik Pikas been climbing?










Contributions


All 75 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 12 | Stars 25 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Elapsid (5.7)
By: Erik Pikas When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Regarding the comment about only seeing 4 bolts: (First, thanks for posting the feedback) It is possible that I had forgotten what I had done by the time I got around to posting this on MP, but more likely the bolts are probably there but very camouflaged. When I first started bolting here I was really into the idea of making them unobtrusive for hunters and hikers. What I can guarantee is that the bolts on this route are nearly 6 inches deep, (5.75" to be exact) by ½" diameter inc... more >>


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Dirty V (5.8) : Photo
By: Erik Pikas When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a great photo Ted! Thanks for posting it!


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Niether (5.9)
By: Erik Pikas When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: We finally added chains to the anchor of Neither. Also, per feedback from several climbers we moved a couple of the upper bolts higher, making the crux significantly safer.


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
By: Erik Pikas When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: We finally added chains at the anchor of Neither, and per feedback of several climbers we moved a couple of the bolts higher, making the crux significantly safer.


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Niether (5.9)
By: Erik Pikas When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: CPay, I think you must be referring to the anchor on Elapsid which is just to the right of Neither. The newly placed "retro bolts" on the anchor are 5.75" bolts. Much deeper than the originals. The anchor on Neither is also (2) 5.75" bolts, but there are no old bolts near it.


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Bearly Hanging On Direct (5.12-)
By: Erik Pikas When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: I agree with you cPay- beta removed! Thanks for the feedback!


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Bearly Hanging On (5.10a)
By: Erik Pikas When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: The first bolt was placed with the intention of climbing the arête. At one point you do go slightly left, but stay out of the chimney to the left. It's dirty, and not much fun, but the arête is really fun and takes some figuring. The second bolt is really camouflaged; I even have to look hard to see it, but it's there. You can clip it very comfortably from standing on the ledge, then you're meant to step right along the ledge and continue up directly above the direct start.


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
By: Erik Pikas When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: There was an accident here on Sunday 5/5/13 related to re-threading the rope at the anchors/lowering. My most heartfelt wishes for a speedy recovery for all involved.
Please, if you climb here (or anywhere) please make sure you understand how to re- thread your anchors, double check and make a clear plan for lowering vs rappelling with your belayer before you leave the ground.


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Thunder Down Under (5.12)
By: Erik Pikas When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: The face below the roof has some flakey exfoliating spots which are clearing up as the route sees more ascents. The rock above the roof is solid and clean.


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Crotalid (5.10b)
By: Erik Pikas When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: Glad you liked the route Joe. I don't think it's necessary to do a sidepull at the roof though.


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall : Elapsid (5.7)
By: Erik Pikas When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: This anchor was recently retro bolted with 5.75"x 1/2" Power bolts and chains. (most bolts here are 5.75" x1/2" Power bolts)


Location: New York : Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall
By: Erik Pikas When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: This is sandstone. It really needs a full day to dry out after rain. It is 1000 times more fun when dry.


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