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Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,938
Total Points: 422

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Eric Hirst been climbing?










Contributions


All 260 | Routes 22 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 32 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 59 | Posts 6 | Stars 104 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Miller Fork Recreational Pr... > The Morgue > Coroner (a.k.a. Rachel's Pr... (5.12c)
By: Eric Hirst When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: The hanger on the bolt that protects the moves leaving the hueco was badly rusted as of 11/2017. Groundfall potential if it fails. I filed a report on badbolts.com. Otherwise, this is an incredible line.


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > Skykomish Valley > Index > Upper Town Wall > ... > Beat Box (5.11d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Oct 29, 2017

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Comments: Really fun climbing all the way, although Jungle Fun felt surprisingly hard. I'd leave the nuts behind and instead bring: .75 green Camalot for 2nd pitch, blue TCU for start of 3rd pitch, and enough creature comforts to spend some time working the final crux like a sport route. It's a small ledge, but pulling the rope a few times so both partners could redpoint made for a great outing.


Location: Washington > Northwest Region > North Cascades > Washington Pass > Liberty Bell > Live Free or Die!™ (V5+)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 21, 2017

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Comments: This boulder sounds awesome. If you forgot to leave a big enough pad at the base, can you rap it from M&M with a single 70m rope?


Location: Washington > Northwest Region > North Cascades > Washington Pass > Liberty Bell > ... > Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: Good topo. Off-route buzzkill is very possible in the last easy pitches above M&M if you let your guard down; study this section carefully to supplement the topo in Blake's guidebook (which only goes as far as M&M). Also note that the newer bolted M&M belay (9) is basically at the tip of the arrow in the picture; the "Easy Lieback Ramp" is just a short step around the corner from the anchor bolts.


Location: Washington > Northwest Region > North Cascades > Washington Pass > Liberty Bell > Thin Red Line (Free Version... (5.12)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: Fantastic climbing throughout; P5 is stellar. I agree with michalm's ratings on everything except P8, which felt more like 12a to me. Maybe I was just wrecked by then.

I'd certainly clip a bolt at the lip of the P6 crux, but after talking to one local I don't see one going in there any time soon. The other spot that could arguably use a new bolt would be the anchor at the top of P5. Currently there's one good bolt, one funky one, and a small cam placement. This anchor can be by... more >>


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > North Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32 / Little Si > World Wall > Sweet Tooth (5.12a/b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 12, 2017

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Comments: Very enjoyable and deserving of more traffic. I thought both cruxes were solid 12a/b, although I can see how someone with a little more power could use a simpler sequence than me on the first roof.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > High Plains Drifter (5.11c)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: Mark, there are bolted anchors on top of all 3 pitches. I'm quite sure you could rap after the 1st pitch with a single 70m rope, although that particular set of bolts was showing signs of corrosion when I was just there. Also, while the final move on P2 is definitely the redpoint crux of the whole link-up, it shouldn't be that hard off the dog if you end up resorting to a little aid at the top of the crack.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Sunset Strip (5.10+)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: I really like the bottom of this route, but didn't like the upper pitches as much. My new favorite variation is the Sunset Falcon option: climb P1-P7 and then continue on Millennium Falcon. Still 10d assuming you stop at Bellygood, and better in my opinion than either MF or SS alone.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Shadowlands (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jun 14, 2017

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Comments: Nice route; often overlooked. It's well bolted, but both climber and belayer should study the 3rd (?) clip (the 2nd one above the roof) before starting out to keep any falls safe while low on the route.


Location: Washington > Northwest Region > Upper Skagit Valley > Diablo Wall > Guillotine (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Very fun crescendo finish. It can't top SYC but still a great addition to the wall. Thanks Calvin!


Location: Washington > Northwest Region > Upper Skagit Valley > Diablo Wall > Shiny Yellow Crane (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: I got on this again this weekend. In spite of some ledgey shenanigans down low I'd say it's one of the 5 best sport routes of the grade I've been on in WA. One long sling and a bit of back-cleaning are enough to get past the shenanigans and into the fun stuff.


Location: Washington > Okanogan > Mazama > Goat Wall > Goats Beard Ice (WI5)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jan 20, 2017

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Comments: I believe this follows the approximate line of Sisyphus.

Shaun's comment about overhead risk is probably the most important detail here. The line is plainly visible from the River Run trail on the Mazama Nordic ski trail system. From there, I've seen big stuff fall off of it on cold but sunny days. Would-be suitors should plan accordingly, and also be aware that the valley does often see temperature inversions.


Location: Washington > Northwest Region > Upper Skagit Valley > Diablo Wall > Kinnikinnick (5.11)
By: Eric Hirst When: Dec 18, 2016

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Comments: The bolted extension to this is one of several very hard open projects on the wall. I can't really visualize it going at less than 5.15 but am not in a good position to judge.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Fins
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: A 2016 version of the "Sweet Spots" guide exists. We found it to be pretty comprehensive for the Fins. It covers other areas and activities as well.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Fins > The Head Wall > Ghost in the Shell (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: The most mono-intensive of the 12- routes I tried at the Fins. Great climbing, but I wouldn't recommend this for anyone trying to break into the grade, unless they were very confident of their finger health.


Location: Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Sidewalk Buttress > Sheep Reaction (5.11c)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: This is straightforward to clean if you have an 80m rope. Fun if you don't mind the choss factor.


Location: Washington > Northwest Region > Upper Skagit Valley > Ryan's Wall > Lockjaw (5.12b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: Hugely fun route; the steepest 12b at Newhalem. Use a 70m or 80m rope, and warm up on Hull Yeah to screw your head on and get a good preview of the line. If you can't climb Hull Yeah without getting pumped, this may just beat you up hard.

I've only climbed this via Serendipity. On my first couple attempts, I experienced pretty bad rope drag near the top. The following beta took care of that for me on my redpoint run:

1. Use only 17cm draws on Serendipity, and keep the 1st bolt unclip... more >>


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > North Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38: Far Side > Shangri-La > Hypertension (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: Very enjoyable climb; recommended. I'd suggest stick clipping the second bolt the first time you try this. It's an OK clip if you do everything perfectly, but if you get the beta wrong, you risk a bad upside down fall or groundfall here.

Other beta: Bring a long runner for the 3rd bolt, and wrap a bit of tape around the base of your left pinky to save some skin on the initial crux.


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > North Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32 / Little Si > Midland > Violent Phlegms (5.11b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: The belay tree at the base blew down in the winter of 2015/2016. I added a belay bolt today to protect the newly exposed ledge. (Bolt is shared with Sweet and Sticky.)


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > North Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32 / Little Si > Midland > Sweet and Sticky (5.9)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: The belay tree at the base blew down in the winter of 2015/2016. I added a belay bolt today to protect the newly exposed ledge.

I believe the route is also now fully bolted; no serious runouts and no gear required.


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > North Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32 / Little Si > The Woods > Godflesh (5.11)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: This is actually right, not left, of Digitalis.


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > North Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32 / Little Si > The Woods > State of Perplexity (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: This long-overlooked sorta-gem was cleaned up and partially re-bolted (new crux bolts, new anchors) in April 2016. It now makes a nice complement to Lay of the Land and Digitalis on the 12-minus tour.

It's easy to pre-hang draws on this by climbing Bioclimatic Quandary. If you choose this option, bring a cam or 2 to avoid having to solo the easy dihedral on that route.


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > Skykomish Valley > No Name Crags > Mine Wall > Benevolent (5.12+)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Great job, Ben! Really happy to see this one go down. Not surprised the chains were hard to clip -- they were a blind guess at the time I put them in.

Good call belaying at the first Greedy anchor. I think that block is solid, but this keeps the belayer and rope out of the way in case anything does come off.


Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > North Bend & Vicinity > Exit 32 / Little Si > Midland > Lay of the Land (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: A bolt or two was added recently to eliminate the runout section, with permission from the first ascensionist.


Location: Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington > Squire Creek Walls > Illusion Wall > Excalibur (5.10+)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Excellent, very well protected climbing, characteristic of Chris Greyell's later routes. It's a bit of a hump to the base.


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