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Member Since: Feb 7, 2011
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Emmett Lyman
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Total Points: 35

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 380 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 148 | Stars 182 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey
By: Emmett Lyman When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Frey beta as of January 2017 (and as memory serves) -

We packed pro and ropes in our carry on bags due to concerns about baggage tampering, and almost met disaster when connecting through AEP when a security agent told us neither was allowed. We managed to talk our way through, but it was a close call. Better to pack it all and carefully zip tie your backpacks tight to discourage the handlers from snooping around. No evidence in either direction for any of us that checked luggage was opened (ot... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : El Abuelo : Ñaca Ñaca Crunch Crunch (5.9)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: The final chimney is hands-down the best reason to do this route. Bring a 5 and bump it repeatedly as you come out under and then turn the roof. It's pretty tight up there, and wearing a ballcap under my helmet made it harder than it should have been.

We linked P1-2 and P3-4. There was rope drag, but made for a much faster climb. Found P1-2 very dirty and uninspired, but perhaps we were offroute.

Location beta - route starts at the base of a right facing corner with a bolt ... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : La Vieja : Del Frente (5.9)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: There's a long runout after reaching the arete on P2, but keep your head together and remember that the crux is behind you. We met friends at the summit and did 2 double rope raps down the face to the ground.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Aguja M2 : Del Diedro (5.9)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Great, great climb. Second chipacles advice to protect the start with a slung flake. Especially if there's a party climbing Socotroco, as the two routes are very close and someone on Socotroco could potentially fall on your ropes or belayer. Found this climb to be easier than other Frey 5+ cruxes (P2 of Sifuentes-Weber) and less heady than others (P2 of Del Frente). Quite casual for the Frey grade with no distinctive crux.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Aguja Frey : Sifuentes Weber (5.9)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: We climbed a bunch of 5.9 (5+) in Frey and the 2nd pitch crux is definitely harder and less secure for several moves than anything else we did. Seems way sandbagged to me, but maybe we didn't do the 5.9- variation? Not sure how else we could have gone.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : Greens Cliff : The Northeastern Crags : The Beanstalk Crack (5.9+)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Very nice climb. Multiple and varied cruxes throughout with thoughtful movement.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : Greens Cliff : The Main Wall : Hippy Bus (5.7)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Climbed as a warmup. Surprisingly committing for a mostly bolted climb with lots of slab moves.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine : Pinnacle Direct (Rock Climb... (5.9+)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: Sounds like we may have climbed this a bit differently. Above the arete moves you call the crux we crossed the small ledge to the left and continued to follow 3 pins up a tricky corner with slopey holds. It felt a fair bit harder than arete moves below. Just above that we escaped left and ended up below a large boulder with some nasty old tat and a sketchy rock leaning on its right side. We cleaned up the tat (new black webbing and older but still good green cord) and proceeded up above the boul... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: I've always climbed P1 of Three Doves to access P2, but finally gave P1 a whirl this weekend due to the holiday crowds. Holy moly, that is serious and runout R for sure. I'm not sure if I missed a placement or two (all too shallow to my mind), but the runout after the loose flake/block was quite serious and I'd say more like 20-25'. Broken ankles would have been a good outcome. Still, the climbing itself was fantastic, and the movements thoughtful. Absolutely great pitch, but terribly spooky. I ... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grand South Summit : South Face (Via Miriam) (5.8)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. First pitch is definitely polished (heck, they all are to some extent!). The roof traverse felt very familiar to a Gunks climber - the jug holds are there just like they should be right under the roof! The following pitch was a little scary, as 2 Austrians rapped down on me and knocked a ton of gravel off. Couple of new dents in the helmet, but fortunately no one got hurt. Just be sure to watch for folks rapping the route and clip the plentiful fixed pro as you go to be safe.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sella Group : Passo Sella Area : ... : North West Arete - Kasnapof... (5.8)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: Easy to accidentally go too high on Pitch 4, avoiding the crux V+ pitch altogether (you actually cut a pitch - getting to the Pitch 5 belay at the end of Pitch 4). Still, pitches 6 and 7 are fantastic. Great climb and well worth it, but try to hit it on a warm day as it follows the left (north) side of the arete most of the way.

Per RKM's comment - make sure you hit up the super exposed dihedral on the right to start pitch 7 - spectacular!


Location: Maryland : Carderock : Incipient (5.9+)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: Not sure how the eliminates (e.g. the 1' band of holds) reconcile with the 5.9 rating. I got shut down trying to get through the overlap. There's literally nothing I could find in that 1' band within reach above the left side crimper in order to get feet over the lip. What am I missing? This thing felt super hard.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Jaws II (5.15a)
By: Emmett Lyman When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: We were next door on Flyin H when Mike sent it. He stopped by afterward - really cool guy and modest about the send. Congrats Mike - hope to hear more awesome sends from you in the future!