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Member Since: Aug 12, 2001
Last Visit: Mar 18, 2017
Contact Eli Helmuth

Point Rank: # 629
Total Points: 1,091

81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Eli Helmuth been climbing?










Contributions


All 774 | Routes 35 | Areas 4 | Photos 170 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 103 | Posts 336 | Stars 83 | Ratings 41
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : El Pelotero Malo (5.12a)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Mar 17, 2017

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Comments: The very rusty steel bolts were replaced 3/14/17 with titanium up to the first anchor and the upper half extension via Pas de Nutella replaced with titanium as well. All of the anchors in this zone will be replaced with titanium very soon and many of the original bolts snapped at the head when being loosened to remove due to corrosion.


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : La Escalera (5.8)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route although a bit runout at the beginning, especially for the grade. Compared to the other 5.8's at the crag and around the world this comes in at the 5.6-7 grades with a few body lengths of crux. Nice rock and the anchor has steel lowering carabiners in place so very convenient.


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : La Esquina Famosa (5.9)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: Great pitch, very sustained. Bolts are currently in terrible shape and not recommended for leading until replaced. Titanium glue-ins scheduled for installment by January of 2017. Anchor are only bolts that I would currently trust.


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : Que Siga La Rumba (5.9)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: Great pitch with increasing difficulties as you get near the top. Rusted steel bolts were replaced with titanium in February of 2017 by myelf and Luis Benet. One 1/2" steel bolt in good shape remains at the top of the pitch.


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: Here's a google map pin to show the parking location and other key information for the visiting climber: Ciales Area Climbing Map We live down the street now so feel free to contact for beta or any issues and we have guest lodging at $35/person or $100/night for the entire space with kitchen, outdoor shower, and fresh fruit on site. Also available ... more >>


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Freedom or Death (5.12a)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: I don't mind the mid-way anchor, just annoyed when I unexpectedly ran into it years later up there with Vince Anderson. Actually redpointed that complete pitch with Paul belaying so not sure why it was mis-communicated but that is a lot of quickdraws for one pitch! I remember that he and Larry G were with me and they had to hang a few times that day on that rope stretcher so we didn't continue to complete the route that day. Came back later and finished ... more >>


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Freedom or Death (5.12a)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: I originally redpointed what are now pitches 2 & 3 in one rope stretcher. Not sure who added the mid-point anchors, why they would, and maybe worth removing as that was never the original climb?


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Bear Lake and Bear's Den : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: It's actually 200 meters from the west end of Bear Lk to the Den. The trail is pretty solid these days with all the traffic, and it steps over the wooden fence on the south side of the inlet creek then stays climber's left above the creek for the remainder.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Bear Lake and Bear's Den : ... : Grizzly (5.12 WI5+ M10 R)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: I need to get that old orange cam out of the crack up top, but what did you think, Josh?


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : The Dangler (WI5 M7-)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: Here's a comparison with M grades that I put on my website some years ago. Take a a look and let me know what you think: climbinglife.com/beta/tech-tip...


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed
By: Eli Helmuth When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: I've never seen an accurate comparison chart that includes M ratings along with world ice and rock ratings. I published one on my website that's my own interpretation, let me know what you think so that I can tweak it: climbinglife.com/beta/tech-tip....


Location: Colorado : 2015-16 Colorado Ice Condit... : Post : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: Grace Falls is in the shadows closest to camera. Column of ice in the middle is approach pitch to Hot Doggies which is upper pitch on left in sun on the east face of Notchtop and the semi-formed curtain to the right of Hot Doggies is The Hourglass. The Rossitter guidebook is still calling this aspect of Notchtop the North Face but it is an east aspect adjacent to the south face so impossible to be the north face.


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : My Right Foot (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Bolts on this classic were in good shape. Crux roof could be done many different ways and the upper headwall is super aesthetic and airy with nice breezes and shade in the afternoon. Highly recommended.


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : Pompi Pompi (5.11a)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: The meat of this climb is within the first 5 meters with nice moves on incredible rock! Did this in 29m to the top and the second half was barely 5.10 but fun to link all into the mega pitch with a view! Bolts were in good shape.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Bear Lake and Bear's Den : ... : Ole No. 2 (M6+)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: This can be done as a short or longer climb. Getting to the first anchor is 5.9+ (M5), and a small set of cams to #3 are helpful to protect this short, steep/slabby corner to bolts that can be rapped-off.

The second half is vertical and technical with the crux getting off the ledge and then a traverse left that can stay left in the easier dihedral or stay right of the bolts for more sustained and technical (M7 or 5.11) to a two bolt anchor. A few hand-sized cams #2 are helpful for ... more >>


Location: South America : Ecuador : Banos Zoologico Sport : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Routes marked in photo in yellow start at far right to left: 12+, 12, 12-, 11+, 11 with the left routes seeing more traffic and the right ones barely touched the last decade, could use a little cleaning as this place gets dirty due to the nearby volcano and raging river at the base.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : I, Robot (5.7) : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Wrong dihedral, this one is 5.8R, and left is below the finger crack crux and starts at 5.6
I've seen a few folks pitch off this dihedral into the ground, once with broken vertebrae, ribs, etc.


Location: South America : Ecuador
By: Eli Helmuth When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments:


The area highlighted in this excellent video appears to be in the mountains nearby Cuenca which has a concentration of the most rock routes in Ecuador Along with the Banos zone (rio Pastaza Canyon), a few crags nearby Quito, the dream canyon nearby Chimborazo and the awesome crag of Cuyuja near Papallacta on the road into the Amazon. Trip report that includes some of these areas here... more >>


Location: Trad Climbing : "single Hitch Belay Escape" : Post : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: He's acting "injured" in this scenario while being tandem-rappelled to the ground, so a somber moment in his otherwise stellar career.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackin' the Johnson (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, there's great gear just left of the bolt, not a problem to protect.


Location: Eli Helmuth : Bear's Den RMNP : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Photo courtesy of Fred Marmsater


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : South Ridge of the Thumb (5.3 R)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Since 2012, there is a bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch of this route, 5' horizontal below the summit plateau. It is not equipped for rappelling.

The best rappel descent is either of two newer anchors with chains on the northwest corner of this cliff. The left one is just below a ledge (top of Rest in Peace) and harder to see. A belay out may be helpful to access for the first person. Both rappels are in the 30m range, so it is a good idea to put knots in the ends a... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9+)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Sweet route in its current state. Somewhat slick like all of lower Castle Rock so make sure it's cool. Very solid RPs fit in below the pin, and you can place them from the shoulder scum or after clipping the pin if you're less of a fan of compression hardware. Just wish this route was longer at the 10a grade.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Thumb Up My Arse (5.10+)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: I suggested the 5.10 grade to Nathan, but that might be redpoint vs. an onsight grade of 10+?

There's an old stuck orange cam which marks the hanging dihedral that has gear below and in it before you reach the first bolt- pretty much fall-line. This can also be the start for Pin Job vs. the harder crack start 2m to the left.

Anchor is exactly 29m on this one and can also be accessed easily by climbing past the Thumbs Up route anchor. This new anchor replaces the funky Pin Job anchor... more >>


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West...
By: Eli Helmuth When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: Since almost all of this rock is in RMNP, just beware that dogs are not allowed in the park which includes all of the crags listed plus the bouldering at Nicki's aka Elkland aka Monkey Hang.
Enjoy!


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