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Member Since: Apr 5, 2012
Last Visit: Jul 17, 2016
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has El scorpion been climbing?


All 13 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts 4 | Stars 3 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Crags / PSOM Slab > ... > The Big Deal (5.9)
By: El scorpion When: May 28, 2016

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Comments: Fun, intersting moderate route which eats up gear. New anchor at top of route on the right works great to avoid the flake --thanks! Doubles in med sizes, you can place a grey #4 but its not needed (I used it a training weight for my wife - ditching low every pitch). There's a new grid bolted face climb just right of the 2/3rd pitches - it's ugly and do we really need another 5.10 something slab between two more natural lines? There are already enough rap anchors to TR any inch of this face. I th... more >>

Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > ... > Aurora (5.13a)
By: El scorpion When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Here's the deal: Aurora is a really fun route, not chossy. As with most 13s in the ORG it has some glue and/or enhanced holds. But it climbs great - go do it, you'll have a blast whipping off at the top. Kinda ridiculous for anyone to harsh on Aurora while giving Fight Club the big thumbs up. Both are fun steep climbs. Aurora is 13A for the ORG if you actually redpoint it, a lot of people who downgrade it are still in "1 hang" mode. Oh and the headwall to the right now sports a natural 13B calle... more >>

Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Whitney Portal > Whitney Portal Buttress > Gangway (5.12a)
By: El scorpion When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: You can rap from the top of Gangway P3 with 1 70 or 80 M- do a short rap left (looking down) to Trivial pursuit chains then 2nd rap back right to a huge ledge with bushes- walk down this to P1 anchor of Gangway or all the way to Tanager anchor.

Do Tanager to start this climb (.3-#1 cams) then walk up ledge to P1 anchor of Gangway. Leave everything smaller than a .75 cam at this belay. #1, #2, #3, #4 for Gangway - save 1 of each for the top after the wide section. I don't think big cams would w... more >>

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > El Capitan > Base Routes > Mark of Art (5.11a)
By: El scorpion When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Huge flexing block near top of route. As you near the top of the vertical stretch of the corner, the flake turns into a block -it flexed 1" on me and a bunch of dirt came out. The block is 7-10' tall, 2' wide and 2'-thick and would kill climber/belayer etc. Tread very carefully. Even though the 200' pitch is one of the very best in the entire valley, I would not test that block again.

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > Cloud Tower > Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: El scorpion When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Could you rap the route with a single 80M?

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