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Member Since: Aug 11, 2010
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 4,955
Total Points: 125

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has earl mcalister been climbing?


All 190 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 134 | Stars 11 | Ratings 5

Contributed Comments


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > ... > Solitary Confinement (5.11)
By: earl mcalister When: Aug 6, 2017

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Comments: Route can be rapped with a 70 meter rope. Watch out for a snagged rope on the first rappel from the summit. Pitches 1 and 2 can easily be linked if you bring a 3, 4 and 5 camalot. Much more comfortable belay stance at the top of 2.

Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > ... > Divine Intervention (5.11b)
By: earl mcalister When: Aug 6, 2017

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Comments: Great route. There are fixed anchors for rappelling until the end of pitch 6. 2 ropes required. For rack, we brought doubles to 3 camalot with triples in blue through yellow alien with lots of slings. Offset nuts were handy.

Pitch 1: A few options exist. We climbed a large, right-facing dihedral filled with loose rock to a large ledge just right of the main dihedral. (5.8R, 70 meters)

Pitch 2: Navigate loose rock and move belay left under the left-facing dihedral. Belay at dike. (5.6 30 meters... more >>

Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... > ... > Rites of Spring (5.10d)
By: earl mcalister When: Jun 2, 2017

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Comments: Descent can be done with one 70 m rope, all from bolted anchors. Tie knots at the ends as some of them are close and the raps are steep. Rapping pitch 1 to the ground is from bolted anchors of "Free Beaks" on the Ministry Wall.

Pitch lengths for climbing are:
P1: 140 ft
P2: 100 ft
P3: 120 ft
P4: 100 ft

Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Bruce Lee Vs. The Kiss Army (5.13a R)
By: earl mcalister When: May 24, 2017

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Comments: We need more climbing routes named after punk songs out there.

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > The Texas Wall / West Velve... > Plein Air (5.11)
By: earl mcalister When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: This is an excellent route. The wide crack layback (can't call it an offwidth) at the start is very challenging, the hand crack to face climbing on the next pitch is very engaging, and the crux dihedral is outstanding. It is a sustained group of pitches with a variety of styles and protection. Our rack: black alien to 4 camalot with doubles from green alien to #4, a single #5 and #6. You could easily substitute the #6 for a second #5, or if you're solid at face climbing around a wide cra... more >>

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Pine Creek Canyon > Magic Mountain > Chocolate flakes (5.10d)
By: earl mcalister When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: Chocolate Flakes as well as the first 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner can be rappelled with a singe 70 m rope. Someone added new anchors making this possible. I would recommend 1 rope as using 2 increases the chance of a stuck rope during the Cartwright Corner raps.

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > The Texas Wall / West Velve... > Lone Star (5.11)
By: earl mcalister When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: The bolt protecting the crux has been replaced. Gear wise, we got by with bringing one old #4 camalot, rather than a 4 and 5. On the last pitch watch out for loose rock from people topping out epinephrine. My partner almost got clocked by a big one.

Location: California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge > Incredible Hulk > The Polish Route (5.10+)
By: earl mcalister When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: RAP BETA: You CAN NOT rap Blowhard (route to left) with a 70 meter rope (we tried). To rappel from the top of the Polish Tower traverse east (up canyon) for about 200 feet to some small pine shrubs (some live, some dead). Slightly down and left from these shrubs you will find a fixed nut anchor. From there, all raps trend rappeler's left and are slung blocks, and piton anchors. Can be done with a 60 meter rope. Watch for stuck ropes and expect every pull to bring down loose rock.

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Tusher Canyon > Monitor and Merrimac Buttes > Without A Net (5.8 X)
By: earl mcalister When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: There are none of the fixed anchors that are mentioned in Cameron Burn's book. We did the route as 1 200 foot long pitch. Beware of the giant flake in the upper part of the climb. Chimneying against it would be a bad idea, especially if you pitch it out and your belayer is in the chimney with you. Rap anchors are on the route Merry Maker (~100 feet right of Without a Net) and are beefed up bolts and chains with ASCA stamps. Thanks for the new anchors.

Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Warbonnet Peak > Black Elk (5.11a)
By: earl mcalister When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this route last week. I wanted to clarify that a new #5 is a total waste of time to bring up there. It will not fit. We carried the thing the whole day. If I were to climb it again I would bring a new #4 BD and an old 4. You can easily slide the cams up with you and make the crux very safe. Three #3's would also make the moves below the crux a bit safer if you aren't solid on that size (we had 2 and were fine). A 70 meter rope would allow you to link pitches 2 and 3, which I think would ... more >>

Location: Montana > Blodgett Canyon > Flathead Buttress > My Moms Muscle Shirt (5.10+)
By: earl mcalister When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: We brought a double rack to 3 inches with a new 4 and an old 4. The old 4 worked well for the 5.9 widepitch and can be bumped up with you. We appreciated the new 4 on the crux roof pitch. #4 and 5 brass offsets were nice for the .9+ 2nd pitch. Excellent crack climbing the whole route. It took 5 rappels to get down. 2 of these required two ropes. Long day but well worth it.

Location: Washington > Central-West Cascades & Sea... > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lower Town Wall > ... > Slow Children (5.10d)
By: earl mcalister When: Dec 16, 2012

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Comments: This is the best pitch I've ever done, anywhere. The crack and gear is perfect (with some spice off the ledge), the scenes are beautiful, and the exposure is excellent. Can't recommend this enough.

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Great White Icicle Area > Pandora's Blocks (5.10+)
By: earl mcalister When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: The 3rd to last bolt on pitch 2 has been flattened by rock fall. couldnt fit a nano biner through but was able to girth hitch a very thin spectra sling (smaller than mammut, which probably wont fit). The bolt is skippable as the next isnt too far away. This route bested my partner and I yesterday. I found it very difficult for .10+. Couldn't climb the first pitch clean at all, even on top rope. couldnt make it past 6th bolt (hard move left) but was able to sneak right around corner with g ear. ... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock > Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R) > Photo
By: earl mcalister When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Notice the backwards hat and contrasting colored shirt? That's style!

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Storm Mountain Picnic Area > Psychobabble Wall
By: earl mcalister When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know sun exposure times?

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Battle of the Bulge Buttres... > The Mystery Machine (5.10b/c)
By: earl mcalister When: Jan 30, 2011

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Comments: My favorite pitch at the Crick. Varied and in an amazingly cool location. I would recommend bringing 4 red camalot size pieces and 3 of everything else.

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