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Member Since: Jun 24, 2011
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Dwight Jugornot
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Point Rank: # 3,384
Total Points: 160

83 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Dwight Jugornot been climbing?










Contributions


All 918 | Routes | Areas | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 10 | Stars 715 | Ratings 88
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tipskin Jihad (5.12a/b)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Straight up the bolt line is hard. Brutal fingertip abuse. Not lame. Felt stout for 12b. Harder than the 12b to the right.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Photo
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jun 17, 2017

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Comments: Thanks to Angus and Greg for the upgrade!
Can't wait to get on it!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Egg (5.12c) : Photo
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jun 14, 2017

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Comments: The crux clip is circled.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Robbin' the Hood (5.11c)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jun 1, 2017

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Comments: There seems to be two main ways to run this route: 11a if you step out left, 11c/d if you work the entire arete. If you work the arete (seems like THE route), this rig is amazing and unique. The arete is fabulous and made this one of my favorite 11s in BoCan.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: The critical pro slot is becoming quite flared. The climbing directly up to it was not too hard, and it really helped to be able to see it. No fixed pro as of now. The runout seemed only about 12 feet above the bomber bolt. Also the belay ledge is sloped, so an impact would deflect the leader out into space. Still....


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Electrocuticles (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: Great line. Felt 12b to me as well, but that could just be Table. A couple of heady clips but just enough to add excitement. Clean, solid rock, great moves, highly recommend!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Cookie Monster (5.12a) : Photo
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 19, 2017

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Comments: Awesome shot!
Puts action in the shot.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Black Haul (5.10)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 12, 2017

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Comments: Pumpy, yes. Blind and tricky gear. Not hard. The anchor is good now with lowering biners.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : ... : Photo
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: Often routes are posted as "this route is just left of the other route". If you're unfamiliar with the area it can be hard to know which route you are looking up at. If you know where the first bolt is you will definitely start up the right route.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ...
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: The area above Pony Express to Sister Morphine is loaded with loose rock.
I know of more than one teetering 200 pounder. Freeze/thaw cycles or climbers walking off higher routes can and do send death blocks down periodically. This is a popular place to hang out. Wear helmets, and keep kids and dogs well away from the base.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Drop Zone (5.10c)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: Great route. Intimidating, committing, fun. Best 10 at the crag.
I too would say 10c/d.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Hound Dog (5.11a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Really fun! Almost every move was good, very sustained. One of the best in the canyon at the grade. I'm 6'2", and it still felt 11ish. The pump was formidable.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Monkey Pause (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Sep 2, 2016

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Comments: I thought this route was pretty fun with a unique crux. Note, if you blow the clip at bolt 3, you would need a very responsive belayer to keep you outta the dirt. The clip can be done fairly securely, but it's worth taking the time to find the best position to do so. The anchor is two open hooks without keepers. Nice line altogether!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Lincoln Lake Slabs
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: Gordon Light Saber (left of Jabba) is a freakin' blast. I made the mistake of linking both pitches and had world record rope drag at the top of 2. Our 60m reached the ground from the very top anchors with a little finesse. The undercling traverse is AMAZING. Take a few finger and smaller cams. Do it as 2 pitches, and you will love it! Thanks, Ken!!!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Body Count (5.11a/b)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: This line is fun. I did't feel any overwhelming compulsion to clip another line, and it felt like a legit mid-11 route in its own right. Bolting is great.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Atlas Shrugged (5.11d R)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Start has a good nut about 8 feet up then nothing to the first bolt. The low nut would be useless when you're making the 10ish moves to the bolt, you would be soloing (the apparent rail 20 ft up has no pro). I extended the first bolt with draws, and then it's reasonable to lead and a super fun route. What a gem! The upper crux pulls fine without gear after the bomber corner gear - spicy but a clean fall. Personally, I would way rather have the first bolt 8 ft. lower to avoid the decker. It doesn... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Pink Slip (5.12b)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: A long, fun and sustained route with very thin and very balancy crux moves. The bottom felt thin, fingery, & pumpy (mid-11), then you get a good stance just below the fat diagonal crack. Getting established on the face above and making the moves up and across (12b) to the route on the right is the crux. The 10d, while easier, is still involved. The route was reasonably well-protected at the crux. he 10d was wet when we did it and fairly run-out on the top. No point in taking gear as the opportu... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Not One Of Us (5.12a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route. Huge kudos, Richard! Great variety and a bold line to the very top. IMHO as good as wet dream and a favorite in CCC. P2 still goes fine without the missing flake. P2 & 3 felt equally difficult to me. Pulling directly over the final roof without touching the "x" hold would be tough. I belayed my second from the 3 bolt anchor immediately at the top of p2 to allow proper heckling and a more accurate belay - we then bumped the belay to a nice, sunny, wind-sheltered spot below p3 using... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Blue Sky Mining (5.11d)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Not very dangerous but - the first bolt calls for a spotter. The rest of the route is well-protected but mildly heady. It felt harder than 11d to me. The 3 ft. wide flake seems solid, and it helps a lot. Not near as good as "not one of us".


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Buoux Montana : The Congo : ... : Silverback (5.12c)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: What an amazing route. Gets harder as you go. The crux move is such a blast! Way to spot the line, Angus!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Buoux Montana : The Congo : ... : Tribal Boundaries (5.12a/b)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: What a great line. Variety, lotsa climbing at the grade. One of my favorite 12s anywhere!


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Roads in are not closed. All roads to Hackberry drainage are in great shape. Switchbacks are great, no water at all in the road by the corral. Road up to the ant hill is unchanged- rough.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: Truly amazing route.
A little (more) rap info - 2 raps are hard to find: 3rd anchor (bottom of 2nd rap) on D7 is 20 plus feet right of plumb, and you will be climbing a bit sideways to get to it (150 ft.). 2nd rap on Crack of Delight is an exact color match for the rock (tan/buff) and is on the very obvious, large ledge right of plumb at around 80?ft.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: An 80m rope came up about 15 ft. short when linking all 3 pitches. It can be done with a little down-climbing. After cleaning all draws and lowering off of the anchor, it was just about long enough. 80m 9.4 rope.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Dwight Jugornot When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: As of about 3/1/14 the roads are in worse shape. The last section of road up to the saddle from the hackberry creek drainage is about the same, but now the road down the switchbacks is nearly as bad. About 1.5 inches of rain around the 1st worsened the damage caused by the big fall of '13 storms. We made it in and out with a stock Tacoma, but I had to lock the diffy. On the plus side, zero crowds...


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