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Member Since: Jan 16, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 282
Total Points: 2,458

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 632 | Routes 150 | Areas 31 | Approach Trails | Photos 98 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 80 | Posts 1 | Stars 205 | Ratings 66
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Ali Booto (5.11a)
By: Dru When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Alicia, it works like this: Ali Bhutto was a Pakistani PM. "Ali Booto" is a pun on his name and "rock boots" (what Brits called rock shoes in the early 80s). The climb was named Ali Booto. A tone-deaf guidebook author "corrected" the name of the climb to remove the pun. Is that clearer for you?


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Harrison Bluffs > ... > Shark Tooth Flake (5.9+)
By: Dru When: Nov 1, 2017

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Comments: THE FLAKE FELL OFF!

A chunk cracked off in spring 2017. The windstorm in October 2017 must have flexed the tree enough to pop off the remaining flake. Both flake and tree are now lying on the ground at the base. Shaun Neufeld and Max de Jong re-established the climb up the scar left by the flake. Definitely 10+ climbing now. A small blue cam in a wide pocket on the right of the corner provides protection through the crux moves now. Please don't add a bolt here.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Old Age (5.9)
By: Dru When: Oct 6, 2017

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Comments: The original finish went right from the top of the detached block via an awkward step up (crux) past a fixed pin. Currently mossed over. The newly cleaned finish goes left to a bolted anchor instead and is significantly easier!


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Vancouver Area > North Shore Mountains > ... > North Face Ramp (4th)
By: Dru When: Sep 29, 2017

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Comments: A classic winter line with 45 to 55 degree snow and the odd WI2 bulge. The original winter ascent went straight up from the top of the ramp instead of following the leftward traverse that most climbers now use. Done this way there are two pitches of WI 2 to WI3 featuring "real climbing", unlike most of the ramp, which is easy step-kicking.

Not a great summer line IMO


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Vancouver Area > North Shore Mountains > ... > Pup Buttress (5.10a)
By: Dru When: Sep 29, 2017

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Comments: FA: Culbert, Cuthbert, Starr, Purdey 1969 (iirc). Four points of aid: one on the 10a crux move and three on the 5.8 fingercrack out of the cave to start p6

FFA: Don McPherson et al 1992 or 1993.

Andy Cairns and I did the 2nd? free ascent in 1994. I thought this route was pretty good for a local climb. It certainly has the moss and brush typical of low-elevation north facing Howe Sound climbs. But I liked it more than the NE buttress of the West Lion. There was very little loose rock by alpine ... more >>


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Wet Dream (5.10a)
By: Dru When: Sep 12, 2017

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Comments: First ascent was by Eric Hamel and Celine Gelinas in the 90s.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Canadian North Cascades > Western Chilliwack Range > ... > Ensawkwatch Enchainment (D) (5.7)
By: Dru When: Sep 8, 2017

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Comments: The full Nesakwatch Traverse, as originally done by Kobus, Emily and John, starts off on Guardian Peak and climbs Guardian, Disillusion, North Illusion, South Illusion, North Nesakwatch, South Nesakwatch, Rexford, Pi Pillar and Rexford South. It's 5.9 (North Ill- South Ill notch is crux) and takes one very long day or two shorter days to complete.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Banana Peel (5.7 PG13)
By: Dru When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: It's relatively easy to climb a variant, basically unprotected p2 which slab climbs up to the higher fault, instead of continuing to traverse the lower fault to the birch tree. This avoids the easiest shuffling on route. From tree belay, walk right 20 feet to join into p3 above the stem-off-the-birch tree move.

Also, a great link-up is to climb straight up from the gear belay at the top of p5 of Banana Peel and join into the upper three pitches of Sparrow. Gives a more consistent 5.8 finis... more >>


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Harrison Bluffs > ... > Mechanical Advantage (5.10b)
By: Dru When: Aug 29, 2017

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Comments: This route was given a touch-up clean last weekend. Nice and buffed right now


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Old Hope Bouldering
By: Dru When: Aug 29, 2017

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Comments: Yes. They are about 1 km past the Grid on the south side of the highway. Park well of on the highway shoulder where you can. Not busy these days and you will want to bring a brush along to reclean some holds/problems.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Chehalis Range > Photo
By: Dru When: Aug 16, 2017

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Comments: This actually does have a route on it


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Moominland (5.9)
By: Dru When: Aug 16, 2017

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Comments: Stepladder and Moominland(the middle two routes at Jug Slab) were originally named, cleaned and climbed by myself and Dave Vocadlo in 1993. Both were soloed after cleaning because we didn't have a drill. Jeff Thomson and Glenn Payan bolted them in 1996 with our permission and added the adjacent two 5.6s (Hamish's and David's) as well.

The originally soloed line of Moominland trends left at the top following holds towards Stepladder and is 5.8. As cleaned and bolted, the finish direc... more >>


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Harrison Bluffs > ... > Crack Of Dawn (5.11+)
By: Dru When: Feb 20, 2017

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Comments: The original guide to Harrison Bluffs was written by Alex Howden and came out in the late 1990s. It has been re-photocopied many times and contains a number of horrendous sandbags (like Tubby and His Pal at 10a+). Also it doesn't distinguish between redpoints, TR-only ascents and other details. Several routes were given free grades and FA credits when they had only in fact been done with hangs on TR. Not to cast blame - most of the initial Bluffs climbers learned to climb at the Bluffs and a... more >>


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Selkirk Mountains > ... > West Buttress of the Horn (5.11- R)
By: Dru When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: Tim, your comment was addressed to David, but he won't see it. He committed suicide several years ago. :(


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Sea to Sky Corridor > The Gorge > ... > Star Chek (5.8+)
By: Dru When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: It's a pretty simple story. RG had been developing the area since 1994 and planned a sport climb. The arete was partly bolted and not fully cleaned or climbed yet in mid-1995. KM and SI were exploring the area as KM wrote up the Whistler and Area Rockclimbs 1995 guidebook and climbed the arete on very sparse trad gear. Ron finished his preferred 10c finish on the left afterwards.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Photo
By: Dru When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: This is a photo of First Class, not Point Blank


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Harrison Bluffs > ... > Rapidfire (5.10b)
By: Dru When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: There is a cruxy new direct start with 4 bolts which links in some moves from the very bottom of the face instead of stepping in from the block to the left. Mid 5.11 this way.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Harrison Bluffs > ... > Bloody Finger (5.11a)
By: Dru When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: The two bolts which appeared in 2012 were later removed. New this spring are four brand new bolts.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Photo
By: Dru When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: When you hit the diagonal, you go a little bit left of what's shown before veering back right


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Easy Skankin' (5.10 variati... (5.10)
By: Dru When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: This route is named Queasy Crankin'


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Picket Line (5.9-)
By: Dru When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: It's a totally separate climb, 5.7


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > The Stacks > The Declother (Right side i... (V0)
By: Dru When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Not so bad with approach shoes, canvas jacket and canvas pants on.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The North Walls
By: Dru When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: There was a large rockfall on April 19th 2015 from the top of Chilkoot Pass which destroyed the upper sections of routes from The Calling to Yukon Gold. Debris spread across the base and totally destroyed an area stretching from Parallel Passages to the Angels Crest trail. Best to avoid the whole area for now until things stabilize.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Parallel Passages (5.10b/c)
By: Dru When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Debris from the slide on April 19th hit the bottom of Parallel Passages and also took out the approach to the climb. Best to stay away until things stabilize.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: Dru When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: A series of major rockfalls came off the Zodiac Wall on April 19, 2015. The debris decimated an area of around 3 city blocks in extent near the base of North Gully, and this includes the approach to and the base of Angels Crest. Debris from the rockfall hit a party that was on the 3rd pitch of Angels Crest at the time. Given the devastation in the area and the potential for additional rockfall, avoiding the Angels Crest Trail and the boulders at the base is a good idea for now.


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