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Member Since: Mar 29, 2008
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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drewford
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Point Rank: # 1,947
Total Points: 420

60 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 552 | Routes 23 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 130 | Posts 33 | Stars 257 | Ratings 75
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > American Fork Canyon > Hard Rock > Beehive (5.12b)
By: drewford When: Dec 3, 2017

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Comments: I repeated Beehive recently and it's safe to say it has gotten harder. The first pitch feels more like 12b/c. There was a rest flake about half way up that is now gone.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock > K-1 (5.10a)
By: drewford When: Nov 8, 2017

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Comments: Short but fun.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock > K-4 (5.11b)
By: drewford When: Nov 8, 2017

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Comments: FA: Kelly Oldroyd. There is fun climbing after the slabby polished crux - which is getting slicker with each passing year.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags
By: drewford When: Nov 8, 2017

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Comments: Note that the "Woodbury Desert Study Area" sign (where you turn off highway 91) has been replaced by this one: mountainproject.com/photo/1086...


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Thumb Nail > Cuticle Crack (5.12c)
By: drewford When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: Fours stars from the first ascent party. Hmmm.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Black Peeler Buttress > Peeler Face > Hell Broke Luce (A2+)
By: drewford When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: Now how did we miss that one? Good addition!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Black Peeler Buttress > Peeler Face > Black Mamba (5.11- PG13)
By: drewford When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: I wondered when that flake on the last pitch of the Serpent was going to go. It was definitely a "pull down - not out" situation.

Funny historic note: when we first did the route, there was an old style #3 rigid Friend with biner behind the flake. So obviously we were not the first to try it. Probably we were just the first that were brave/stupid enough to pull on the flake and persevere to the top.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > American Fork Canyon > Division Wall > The Abyss (5.12c/d)
By: drewford When: Sep 14, 2017

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Comments: Repeated this recently. It's not getting easier, you're just getting stronger. Still 12d.

Leaving fixed draws on this route is just lazy. Run up Deep End for a warm up and hang your draws. Cleaning them is dead easy.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Albion Basin > Devil's Castle > Poon Limp or Eat Crust (5.10a)
By: drewford When: Sep 14, 2017

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Comments: Can anything on the Castle ever achieve four stars?! Enquiring minds want to know.


Location: Utah > Uinta Mountains > Hayden Peak > Iron Hayden Wall > Sun & Steel (5.11a/b)
By: drewford When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: Great route! Highly recommend doing the Beer Mule variation on P3, and linking both of those pitches to the belay below the last pitch. We straightened out the last pitch by going straight up off the belay and skipping the first two bolts out left which we thought would create drag. A red camalot protects it well. Be careful pulling onto the summit ledge - lots of choss. A great outing - thank... more >>


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Tanners Gulch > Hidden Heavenly Slab
By: drewford When: Aug 12, 2017

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Comments: This is a great crag! I've done 7th Way and All About Volume and I can say these are some of the best multi-pitch outings in Tanners, if not LCC. Thanks to TP, Luke and crew for pioneering these sweet lines.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Tanners Gulch > Hidden Heavenly Slab > All About Volume (5.10)
By: drewford When: Aug 12, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route! Single set wires to a #2 Camalot is plenty. Mostly bolts. Long draws are nice on the second pitch to straighten out the rope. Take a 70m rope for safety on the raps - I think a 60m would be too close for comfort.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Storm Mountain Picnic Area > Storm Mountain Island > Big in Japan (5.12b)
By: drewford When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments: Thanks to Jimmy Keithley and Jonathan Knight of the SLCA for the glue-in bolts.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Fins > Mortal Earth > Classic Rock > Sticky Fingers (5.10)
By: drewford When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: Loose flake just before the anchor - pull down carefully.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Fins > Mortal Earth > Classic Rock
By: drewford When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: A fun wall with well-bolted slabby routes. Needs a bit more traffic, but the stone is sublime. A good intro to moderate Fins climbing.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock > Gnashing of Teeth (5.10b)
By: drewford When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: The Metolius rap hangers could use chains.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock > Czech Frogs Say Qua (5.11c)
By: drewford When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: Essentially an alternate start to K9. But way fun because it's not nearly as hard!


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock > K-9 (5.12b)
By: drewford When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: Short but bouldery crux at the start. The rest is super fun.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock > K-8 (5.11b)
By: drewford When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: The stars speak for themselves. Just do it. Super fun route.

Historical note: all the "K" routes at this crag were put up by Kelly Oldroyd from Salt Lake City.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock
By: drewford When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: This wall is named after Kelly Oldroyd, a great guy and strong as hell climber from Salt Lake. Thanks for the great routes Kelly!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Gate Buttress > East Gate Buttress > ... > Photo
By: drewford When: May 16, 2017

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Comments: Gotta check out the second and third. The movement gets better.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Westwind Buttress > Sacrifice (5.10d) > Photo
By: drewford When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: Nice butt shot of me Clay. Yes, the start of the crack is seasonally wet.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > American Fork Canyon > The Billboard Trail > The Billboard > ... > This Must Be The Pickle (5.13a)
By: drewford When: Mar 24, 2017

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Comments: I've seen a few "sends" lower from the Atmosphere anchors. The Pickle has it's own anchors. To reach them you have to negotiate a testy little slab section that moves right and up to chains that are at 1 o'clock from the Atmosphere anchor.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Snow Canyon State Park > Island In The Sky > War Zone
By: drewford When: Jan 26, 2017

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Comments: Yep, that's Ronnie O. Quite a character. Climbing used to have (and still needs) colorful characters. I'll never forget witnessing a scene between Ron and Mugs Stump. Ron was bragging about how he was going to drill pockets all the way up the right side of the Monkeyfinger dihedral. Mugs loomed over Ron, punched his finger in his chest and said, "Do and I'll break you in half." Ron beat a hasty retreat.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Coalpit Gulch > Waterfall Wall > Cool Your Jets (5.12a)
By: drewford When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: +1 for bolt replacement


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