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Member Since: May 24, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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DrApnea
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Point Rank: # 2,367
Total Points: 318
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 45
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1044 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 50 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 308 | Stars 517 | Ratings 128
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : Curiosity Killed The Cat (5.9+)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Relavent pictures uploaded. Banter removed


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : Curiosity Killed The Cat (5.9+)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: How easy? No pro required, low 5.fun. as I said above. Previous climbers have also said these climbs were not the classic you envisioned so not all prior climbers thought is was amazing either.

I appreciate the time/money/effort put forth to create it. Thank you for doing so. But with that said, poor quality rock isn't for everyone. My rating of this climb reflects it, even if this is the Swell. You need not waste your time defending your lines against everyone that do... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : ... : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: you can walk off of Curiosity Killed the cat by continuing down this gulley


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : ... : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: Details in photo. Click full size if you can't read the text. Essentially continue up on the left side of the ridge, follow huecos, when those run out, climb over the ridge onto the right side and follow the easy ridge to the summit. This will allow you to walk off to the climbers right down a 4th class gulley.
This was posted at the request of USBRIT. Yes you can walk off. I hope this will promote more people to do the route as you do not have to lug up an extra rope.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : Curiosity Killed The Cat (5.9+)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: I did climb the 6 pitch route described and seen in photos here. I continued up another pitch (#7) past the 1000' of fun achors to reach the true summit of the formation taking the path of least resistance. This allowed us reach the summit, walk to the climbers right, and then scramble down the rocky gully back to the base of the climb, passing a group just starting up 1000' of fun as we finished.
The crux pitch you mentioned (the one after the whi... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : Curiosity Killed The Cat (5.9+)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 23, 2016

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Comments: You can continue to the top/summit by climbing easy 5th. This will allow you to scramble 4th class safely back to the base. Single rope and rack exactly as described will be plenty. This climb is on the RIGHT side of the main canyon, but Left side of the formation. It starts heading up the red band with hueco type features. You can see the first pitch bolts and anchors from the approach, which is less than 10 minutes. It gets full sun.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Warrior Wall : The Warrior (5.10d)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: I did the first pitch today and brought way too much gear. Doubles from blue Metolius to BD#3 and a few nuts are more than enough to sew it up. Save a 0.75 for the top/last piece. The #4 some mention for the crux is not needed (and will not fit where you want it anyway), so don't bother with it. I hauled it up and never placed it. Above your last piece (a bomber 0.75 placed from a stem), you will have 1-2 moves until you are slapping anchors. This is an ama... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Dragontail Peak : Backbone Ridge (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: TR posted up at
guyettes.blogspot.com/2016/07/...


Location: South America : Colombia : Suesca
By: DrApnea When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Great climbing in Suesca. Easy access from Bogota via the bus and the climbing is easy to access thanks to the train tracks. Plenty of options for lodging, tent, hostel, or you can even splurge to live like a king if you look on airbnb.

TR listed on our blog.
guyettes.blogspot.com/2016/04/...

One of the local climbers, Sebas, provided great hospitality and showed us around. I would climb here again. Sebas said he would update this page with some of the routes, so hopefully... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Cat Burglar (5.6)
By: DrApnea When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: Doesn't get much traffic from the looks of it, but really fun moves. Tops out at the big rap rings of Canary. Lots of old pins on this line.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Photo
By: DrApnea When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: Where is this?


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Lowe-Spark (5.13 A0) : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: That is awesome. Thanks for posting.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Pearly Gates
By: DrApnea When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Summer shade until 2-3pm. Leave the Icicle creek at the first leftward turn immediatly after the irrigation canal. Follow the climbers trail about 100 yards until you see a large downed tree across the first branch of the creek, cross it, walk back down stream about 50 feet and you will regain the climbers trail to cross the second branch of the creek on a smaller log. 25 more minutes and you will at Pearly Gates.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Pearly Gates : Veins of Glory (5.10b)
By: DrApnea When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: I thought the single finger single pad pocket was a bit overstated, but it really is a single finger, single pad pocket above the roof to balance you up. Fun route, well protected roof crux. Lower crux is reaching the first bolt. Small gear can help keep it tame.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Pearly Gates : TOOL TIME (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Not scary runout, but it is runout. Single move crux with balancing on your toes being key. Some gear <2" would protect the runouts (which you probably already had on your rack from the approach pitch).


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Domestic Dome Area : Roto Wall : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Roto Wall Left side. Roto Route is on the left side. Vertical smile is on the slabby wall right of this picture


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Domestic Dome Area : Roto Wall
By: DrApnea When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Good beginner area for taking the kids. Only a 50 yard walk from the road. Can TR many of the lines by walking around and up the right side tiers. The base of the right side of Roto wall is flat and in the shade.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Divine Decadence (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: More fun than the neighboring Carol's Crack. Protects well


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Columbian Crack (5.7)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Why are there bolts next to this perfect crack? Bring the big gear, pull the bolts. If this route needs any bolts it is only for a station to rap from.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Dykes of Gastonia (5.7 R)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Belay at the roof where you start the dyke if you want to belay from anything besides a single chickenhead/horn.
Second belay is a single horn backed up by a single piece behind a block that is completely detached. Fun times but the belays are sketch.
Also the "home made bolt" is gone or I didn't find it. There are two newer bolts on the first pitch but it still deserves a strong R rating.
Also we walked around a bit before finding the rap station. Finish the route and continue up and over ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Kiss the Sky (5.10b)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Nothing bigger than BD C4 #0.5 for the second pitch. Thin edging.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Maudlin (5.7) : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Also note where the other photo says the 70M rope ending 10ft above the ground is actually at about shoulder height or lower.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: DrApnea When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Supertopo guide was spot on. We aided P1-3 and freed P4 and up.
We brought more gear than necessary, so here is what we actually used:

DMM offset aluminum nuts: 2 sets (only used 1 set)
TriCams: #0.5, 1, 1.5 (really only need the 1 and 1.5 for placement above the roof on P2)
Metolius Mastercams #0 (never used)
Metolius Mastercams #1
Metolius Mastercams #2
Metolius Mastercams #3
Metolius Mastercams #0/1
Metolius Mastercams #1/2
Metolius Mastercam... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Rough locations from memory. feel free to correct me if you disagree


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Layback Crack (5.5)
By: DrApnea When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: The new anchors here are unnecessary, even for a 5.5 climb. They are in the middle of pitch 2. They are next to a tree. They are next to a gear anchor potential. They are only 20 feet from the prior established belay anchors that reside at a nice ledge. Whoever put these in needs to sell their drill. Pull them and reclaim your hangers before someone else does.


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