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Member Since: Aug 19, 2011
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,229
Total Points: 570

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has dragons been climbing?










Contributions


All 298 | Routes 30 | Areas | Photos 58 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 62 | Stars 114 | Ratings 19

Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Lost Ledge : Four Holes (5.5)
By: dragons When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: I couldn't see the anchors of P1 from the ground. I aimed for an upward-facing flake, thinking the anchors were there. It turned out to be about 15 feet short of the anchors. The flake makes good pro, but then I moved up and had an awkward traverse / downclimb to the anchors that are further to climber's right. If using this flake as pro, it might be wiser to move down immediately from here to get to the anchors.

FWIW I saw just 1 bolt on P1.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : Humphrey's Hollow
By: dragons When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: Responding to the comment on Sep 9 2015: Humphrey's Hollow is, indeed, in the Handren guide, p 266. Routes listed: Rear End Blues, 12 Weeks, Mud Slide Crack, Sorry Rob, Smear Factor, Gentlemen of Leisure.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge
By: dragons When: May 4, 2017

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Comments: According to Friends of the Ledges, Sundown Ledge is open for climbing as of March 28, 2017.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Rainbow Slabs : 3. The Mid Section
By: dragons When: Apr 30, 2017

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Comments: "Dead Easy" was dry on April 30 2017, except at the top, but the wetness and mud there did not cause problems. There are two bolts and a chain for rapping at the top of Dead Easy. The bolts are set in a spot that apparently gets a lot of running water. The bolts looked pristine, but the chains on the bolts were suspect (partially rusted). We rapped off a bomber pine tree to climber's right of these bolts.

Water is running down sections of the cl... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge
By: dragons When: Jan 30, 2017

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Comments: The Boulder Loop trail is now completely open again. I don't know exactly when it reopened. I went for a little hike there yesterday, and the signs are all down.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge
By: dragons When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Loop Trail entir...
Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Loop Trail entirely closed due to the 370 acre brush fire in the area this last week. A ranger told us this area will very probably be closed at least until Spring 2017 :(


Rock Climbing Photo: Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Trail loop closu...
Albany Covered Bridge and Boulder Trail loop closure notice.


Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder Loop Trail at Albany Covered Bridge is clo...
Boulder Loop Trail at Albany Covered Bridge is closed.


The brush fire that started last week did considerable damage to this area, which is now closed. The closure notice says you can be fined up to $5000 and/or imprisoned for 6 months for violating it.

We talked to a ranger who told us that this area will probably be closed until at least Spring of 2017. Apparently there is some concern about "snag trees" that might fall down on your head. Bummer.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)
By: dragons When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: FYI There's been a big fire that started near Albany Covered Bridge on Sat (Nov 12 2016). They're asking people to stay away for a few days: wmur.com/article/kate-mckinnon...


Location: New Hampshire : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Beginners Easy Variation (5.3)
By: dragons When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Can anyone provide info on how to proceed beyond P4, relative to Cormier-Magness? I've done it several times and always wind up at the exit cracks of The Open Book pitch of Cormier-Magness. I belay there, then follow Cormier-Magness to the top, because I don't see another way to go. I saw Chris Lumens comment... are you really supposed to navigate off right into trees at the top of the Open Book?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Mom's Pancake (5.5)
By: dragons When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: There used to be a bong in one of the horizontal cracks but I didn't see it today (didn't see any fixed pro at all, though Ward Smith's Rumney guide lists it as having two such pieces) . It does make the route feel a little runout without it.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : The Lone Ranger (5.3 PG13)
By: dragons When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: I didn't think it was too dirty/grassy, but then I had just led "Pfui Teufel", which was extremely grassy and dirty at the top - much worse than what I found here.

The route is covered with a lot of lichen, but otherwise the holds are reasonably clean. About halfway up, the wall was covered in brown lichen to the right. I stayed off that and moved up the cleanest looking surfaces. You really have to hunt for pro as you approach the top, but fortunately the climbing is easy enough that yo... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: dragons When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: 5'0" here. I led P2 today, after taking beta photos of gear placements when following my partner (I've uploaded one for those who may be interested).

I was super-cautious on this route because of the broken ankle report (thanks to Stephanie for the warning). There's a decent toehold near the initial piton, and a couple similar sized holds up about 5 to 6 feet left of that, close to the slot where I put a Metolius Master Cam 0. Had to pull up to check that it fit okay... and it was set perfectly... more >>


Location: Massachusetts : Tyngsborough Quarry
By: dragons When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Just a couple of things. At this time, you can't see the quarry using Google Streetview, even though you can see the wall from the street when you pull over to the little dirt pull-out. Here's a more accurate location for the dirt pull-out maps.google.com/maps?q=171+Mid...

I only saw tw... more >>


Location: Massachusetts : Tyngsborough Quarry : Photo
By: dragons When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I added the route Tyng-a-ling - mountainproject.com/v/tyng-a-l... - which is right near where you're standing in this photo (I made up the name since I don't know of any climbing history for this little quarry). I just climbed it today. Fun! Too bad there's not more.

If anyone knows of any climbing history for this area, please post.


Location: Massachusetts : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : Tarzan (5.8+) : Photo
By: dragons When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: According to Boston Rocks 2nd ed, p 61, this is Fool on a Hill (5.9).


Location: Massachusetts : Denrock : Petroleum Base Buttress : Chossy's Nice Twin (5.7) : Photo
By: dragons When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: This route appears to be listed as "North End Crack" in Boston Rocks 2nd ed. Are they one and the same?


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