REI Community


Member Since: Apr 28, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 5, 2017
Contact Dr. Dan

Point Rank: # 6,158
Total Points: 91

4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Dr. Dan been climbing?










Contributions


All 77 | Routes 2 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 13 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 34 | Posts | Stars 18 | Ratings 8
Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Sundance Buttress > Mainliner (5.9)
By: Dr. Dan When: May 6, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Did a rope solo on this route and thought it was excellent and deserving of 3 stars. The climb has a little of everything with outstanding rock quality. I would leave the #4 cam at home and stick with a standard rack with a good selection of medium and large nuts. Would also say that the route is closer to an 8+. While the climbing is consistent, there are really only a couple of 9ish moves


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Independence Monument > Sundial Dihedral (5.11b C1)
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 27, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is a truly worthy route! We took the 5.8 start on the left and while everything is there, the pro can be a little tricky in a couple of spots. On P2 I tried to get up the initial section free about 4 times before throwing in the towel and aiding the first 10-15 feet. After this there is a fun free section using some horizontal cracks and pulling up onto the slopey ledge. Got a couple of more moves up past the ledge before resorting to aid again. P3 is as described above. On P4... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: Dr. Dan When: Dec 3, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Another link up that is fun and not as hard as the Vertigo start is to do the direct start (10b) on the Yellow Spur. At the top of P4 go right up a lose ramp until you are under a large bulge. The bulge is solid and fun and looks harder than it is (9). Once over the bulge angle right up into the big roof on Mellow Yellow. Climb the roof using the crimp on the right facing wall and reach for a pincher hold out left. Once over the roof there are ample tiny crimp holds, but no pro. Move right... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Black Top (5.11)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 9, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I think it is one of the best sport routs in Eldo. While I was climbing it I was less than pleased with the bolt placement, but it keeps your concentration up right to the end when you reach the ramp. Its neighbor, BackTalk is even more run out, but not in the cruxiest sections. Both climbs are on good quality rock and the holds are all there.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Sundance Buttress > Adrenaline (5.9 R)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 9, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Since the [existing] comments are at best neutral, I would like to suggest an upgrade (in terms of quality not difficultly) on the [route]. I have climbed it with a partner (John Varco) and solo. I thought both climbs were very good with solid rock requiring varied techniques. Some hand jamming on the crux move, and some finger jamming on P4, stemming, face climbing and chimney moves are all there. If you want to climb a relatively long [route] with [good] quality [consistent] climbing in the... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Hallett Peak > Direct Second Buttress (5.9)
By: Dr. Dan When: Jul 27, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Did most of the route on 7/14/2002. A few differences from the above description plus one near death experience. P1-Take line directly up the big corner then go up left over some fun, but lose ground to some good features which go past the very questionable fixed belay, to a better natural belay just right of the crux pitch. (180-190 ft)P2-The crux pitch is 9+ with good protection. It is a right facing, right arching crack. At the top of the crux section there is very poorly protected ledge ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Backtalk (5.10c R)
By: Dr. Dan When: May 6, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: The moves off of the ramp going right are really cool. Use the finger slot jams to position yourself for a clip. It is a more challenging climb than Blackwalk, requiring more precise foot and hand work. I thought the danger level as far as a serious fall was less on this climb than Blackwalk, although the potential for loss of skin and bruising is significant.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: Dr. Dan When: May 6, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: I hopped on this route with out a lot of beta. I found two bolts to clip and about a 30 foot run out on 5.8-9 after the 10b-c crux. It was really very solid climbing and not sketchy. On the ramp there is the tendency to go for the lower chain ancors on Backtalk, but since the climbing is easy, go left, find 2 fixed pins in the flake or place a .75 cam and move up and left to the real anchors. Fun climb, but it tests you mental cool.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Rewritten (5.7)
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 28, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed this is a *** route. Doing the Great Zot start and keeping gear to a minimum it was possible to link P1 and P2 to the eye bolt. Even with that there was a lot of drag. Did P3 and P4 in the traditional manner to the base of Rebuffet's and again linked the last 2 pitches climbing the Arete, stepping across to the crack and to the summit. Using a supple 9.7 rope and a lot of slings it was very doable in 4 pitches and leaves you more time to play in the park.


Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · Contact · About