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Member Since: Oct 9, 2008
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

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All 962 | Routes 2 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 159 | Stars 636 | Ratings 64
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Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Arrowhead
By: monkeyvanya When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: Did the NE ridge from Solitude Lake on 7/1/17. We had some trouble on the way down after rappels from the saddle.

We opted to go down to the Black Lake at the base of Arrowhead, SE side. Although this way looked like an established trail, the snow was covering 10-20% of the slabs/hillside. It forced us to a technical traverse on wet slabs 20' above a 3' grassy ledge with steeper slabs directly below. Under a hanging, runny snowpatch.
Very bad idea, in hindsight, but we got lucky. We sh... more >>

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Calico Basin > Strategic Arms Wall > Strategic Arms (5.12a)
By: monkeyvanya When: Apr 19, 2017

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Comments: Sustained; spicy, but safe; has an amazing flow and works the whole body.
I had 2x#4, #5 and #6 and definitely appreciated having each one of these. In fact, had to back-clean #5 from lower section to use after #6. But I'm mediocre at ow.
You can dog the top with decent RPs, so don't be intimidated to jump on it. Placing them on lead, however, is way pumpy and fall looks fine, so just figure out the beta and gopher it to the anchor.

Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > Cactus Cliff > Afterburner (5.12b)
By: monkeyvanya When: Dec 12, 2016

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Comments: Very fun, unjustifiably overlooked route. I think movement-wise it's no worse or more difficult than Hot Beach but is much harder to read due to lack of chalk. Agree with Steve - pre-clip the first bolt.
Oh, thanks for the new hardware! I guess that could explain why it still has less chalk than its neighboors.

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Highlands aka Highlande... > The White Whale (5.13a)
By: monkeyvanya When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: Powerful crux in the beginning, followed by a pumpy one to the top - very fun route on mostly excellent rock.

I wonder, however, if any holds broke on the left sequence of the lower crux. I saw a few tick marks going up at 10-11 o'clock from the 3rd bolt but no obvious sequence through them. On the other hand, there was a very fun dynamic set of 5.12+ moves taking you at 2 o'clock to a jug on the arete. Unfortunately, at that point, you are 3-5' right of the bolt and away from the w... more >>

Location: California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge > Incredible Hulk > Solar Flare (5.12+)
By: monkeyvanya When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: From p5 12b

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Slab > $00pr kr33m (5.13a)
By: monkeyvanya When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: My 60 takes me back to the ground every time.

Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Short Wall > Jay's Solo (5.10c)
By: monkeyvanya When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Sandbag! Props to all who soloed it - this ain't cupcake.

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Matthes Crest > ... > Photo
By: monkeyvanya When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: Is it from second to last gendarme? I think we took the very same route.

Location: California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge > Incredible Hulk > The Polish Route (5.10+)
By: monkeyvanya When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: A few notes:
1) Polish route, P3. From belay climb the wide crack, leave #5 (#4 could also do a bit lower) in it to protect a rather sketchy traverse. You can drag a single #4 with you through the entire offwidth part of the pitch, occasionally placing smaller stuff.
2) You can build an anchor after P3 just left of the second pod with a #1 and some medium-sized nuts to spare all the big gear for the next pitch.
3) Escape from Poland, P2 (Iron Curtain): place a nut in the crack at the lip of the... more >>

Location: Colorado > Empire > Ra > Walk On Water (5.13b)
By: monkeyvanya When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Beta alert. If you can't do the long reach, it is possible to clip the third bolt and escape left onto the bolted flake around the arete. The flake and the necessary footholds under it seemed solid in their current state. I was on TR but was able to reach all the bolts from stable stances. Unfortunately this variation avoids a very nice sequence from the third bolt to the long reach as well. I think this brings the overall difficulty down to mid-.12.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Torrey's Peak > Kelso Ridge
By: monkeyvanya When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: The dirt road up Steven's Gulch looked a bit rough for a 2wd (esp bad ~1 mile in). I decided to leave my Sprinter at a parking lot next to the forest service road ~0.5 miles in. A few people turned around higher. I saw a few sedans make it all the way up though.

It was really crowded today (on Sunday). Despite leaving the trailhead at 630am, I passed 5-6 parties on the ridge proper. One was even carrying a rope on their pack.

The most obvious path follows a trail through lots of loose scree, d... more >>

Location: Colorado > Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma > Haus Rock > The Spine (5.10c)
By: monkeyvanya When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: Felt like Eldo 5.11+. Just a couple of stout, fingery moves.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Tenmile Range > Tenmile Traverse (4th)
By: monkeyvanya When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: In summer, if you bail before 5.30pm from Peaks 5-8, you can ride down on Colorado Superchair lift and further into town on free gondola.

Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Ice Box (later renamed by s... > Velociraptor's Revenge (5.11c/d)
By: monkeyvanya When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Great route. Protection, though looks bad from the ground, keeps appearing just where you need it.

Location: North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Front Side aka El Toro
By: monkeyvanya When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: Approach for Land of the Free/El Sendero Luminoso:
From a large pull-out on the road head down into the riverbed and locate miners road on the other side (as of 12/2014 it had a sign and a gate). Follow the road for 500 steps and take a trail uphill. After 150 steps it splits. Right - to Plutonia caves, left - to LotF/ESL through some loose scree to slabs below a mine.

Location: North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > ... > El Sendero Luminoso (5.12+)
By: monkeyvanya When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: It's a good climb for a sunny winter day, when it's typically >70F in potrero (route gets no sun).
It has very interesting, surprisingly sustained and even pumpy long sequences on crimps, edges, shallow pockets, smears and fingercracks throughout all 10 first pitches we managed to climb. It's not your typical cruxy fingernail crimping slab and imo is way better quality than anything in virgin canyon. Line is amazingly clean for front side and holds, even the most suspiciously looking little ... more >>

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Scarface > Sudden Impact (5.11)
By: monkeyvanya When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: I used 3#0.75, ~7#1, ~5#2, #3(optional) - bd c4 sizes
After cleaning, 80m rope lowered me to a big ledge ~30ft above the base.

Location: Wyoming > Lander Area > Sinks Canyon > Sandstone Buttress > Gunky (5.8)
By: monkeyvanya When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: The sandy, pocketed slab below the starting ledge goes at about 5.7R and is rather fun too

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Staunton State Park > Staunton Rocks > Meadow Dome > ... > Tickle My Blossom (5.11 R)
By: monkeyvanya When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Apologies... Monty, you're right. I thought I was on 'Opportunist' when I did 'No Opportunities missed', and it messed up the order of the rest of them in my head.

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Staunton State Park > Staunton Rocks > Meadow Dome > ... > Muricuh (5.12)
By: monkeyvanya When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Spent some time hanging at the lip of the roof trying different things and wondering if any of the holds broke off.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Dinosaur Rock > Pink Man's Burden (5.11d)
By: monkeyvanya When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Dropped a line from the top anchor yesterday. Pitch 2 was awesome. The line from the big ramp directly below the intermediate anchor goes at 5.10 with a few nice moves on very crumbly rock. Would be a nice line if a solid bolt was placed there, but I'm not sure if a bolt in that stuff would hold a fall.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Green Mountain Pinnacle > Green Sneak (5.2)
By: monkeyvanya When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Downclimbed it after 'Taking Care of Business'. The moves felt considerably harder than anything on NE face of 5th Flatiron (5.6), which I've done just before that. So heads up if you don't have rope.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Maiden > South Face (5.8 R)
By: monkeyvanya When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: I expected some tricky route finding and adventurous climbing on this one and was rather underwhelmed. First 2 pitches to the first bolted anchor are 5.4. Then there's a 30-foot pitch to the ridge. The moves were easier than on North face, but the rock wasn't as solid.

There was a couple working on a bolted line that goes straight up from the first belay (that Steve mentioned above). It has just gotten a FA and the red tag is now removed. They said it goes at 5.12d. Looks like an instant classi... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > ... > Photo
By: monkeyvanya When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: I think I see an approach shoe... nice :) Was there a rope?

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Seal Rock > East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: monkeyvanya When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: Crack/holds on the last pitch are simply phenomenal.

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