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Member Since: Apr 13, 2002
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact Dougald MacDonald

Point Rank: # 889
Total Points: 917
Last Year: 60
Last 30 Days: 9
57 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dougald MacDonald been climbing?










Dougald MacDonald

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 579 | Routes 47 | Areas 5 | Photos 36 | Page Improvements | Comments 192 | Posts 80 | Stars 152 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Twilight Zone : Freedom Fries (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: The move left to the jug at the fourth bolt feels like the natural way to go (not just to avoid choss) and also seemed like the crux of the climb. Fun route, but it feels a bit contrived at the top—you don't know if the good holds in the corner are "on" or if you should force yourself to use only the cool features to the right. We all used the corner! Without it, the crux of this route definitely would be on that headwall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Red House (5.11b R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Time to rename the route?

Rock Climbing Photo: The no-longer Red House.
The no-longer Red House.



Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Father on Fire (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: Modern bolts are in place, and there is a good, modern anchor just up and left from the top of the crack. Small wires useful; I only placed one (small) cam. Really fun pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower : South Face (5.11+) : Photo
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Torre Texas!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Putterman Residence : Original Route (5.9+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: People really need to check out the potential new start on the northern prow. It looks like fun climbing on way better rock.


Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : Muddy Creek
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Can anyone identify the routes on the nice, tall wall just downstream from Kyle's Tower? We attempted the long bolted route and thought it was very good and hard (maybe low- to mid 5.12?). There are a couple of overhanging crack lines high on the tower that look wild. Seemed like the coolest cliff in the canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Chupacabra (5.10+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: I won't rate it, because I didn't get it clean, but I think this is harder than 5.10+. Big fingers would help. Pretty cool short pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Eagle Plume Tower : Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South... (5.10)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: The Lola rappels are recommended. Three straightforward raps with a single rope.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Lady in the Bathtub : Angel's Fear (5.9 C2-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: This is a very good tower route, engaging and varied, with mostly good rock by Valley standards. We did it in three pitches (recommended):

Pitch 1: Very short, straightforward aid. Followed free at mid to upper 5.10.

Pitch 2: Led free at low-end-ish but sustained 5.10. Many interesting sections and decent pro, with emphasis on small cams (tiny to 0.5). Surprisingly, it felt like the crux was near the top, in a good but awkward hand crack. Save something small to protect the overhanging exit g... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Lady in the Bathtub
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: It's easy to approach Angel's Fear, which is near the NW corner, by approaching toward the right side of the tower from the road and turning the north (right) corner. This approach has no scrambling other than knee-high steps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : The Garden : Smooth Operator (5.11+)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: If you have a rack, you can add some real value to this pitch by climbing straight up and a little left after the crux, moving through a couple of overlaps with good trad pro. Roughly hard 5.10 with some balance-y moves and lichen. After that it only makes sense to join the bolted line (or continue on trad up the easy groove). This variation roughly doubles the independent stretch of Smooth Operator, and it's very interesting climbing.


Location: CO : Leadville : Finback Crags
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Definitely a good place to wear a helmet, while belaying as well as climbing, and beware of seemingly solid blocks and horns that might break without warning. (We pulled off two large blocks on the Pyramid.) That said, this is a very cool area with challenging climbs in a gorgeous valley. Thanks to everyone involved with developing this unique alpine cragging.


Location: CO : Leadville : Finback Crags : The Emperor Wall : Finback (5.10d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Quite the adventure for three sport pitches. We both thought the first pitch might be 5.11: unless we both missed several big holds, there's no way it's 10b. It's possible to skirt the crux of the second pitch by following the last two bolts of the variation to the right, but this is still 5.10, and it's probably much better to climb straight up. Climbing straight up the final corner on the third pitch until a hard step left above the final bolt seems like the only obvious way to go and felt lik... more >>


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : Stripes Wall : Burning Bright (5.11d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: After top-roping this and the Hammer to the right, we had two conclusions: 1) Burning Bright is considerably harder than the Hammer; 2) it's hard to believe Burning Bright is not 5.12 to lead, given the difficulty of hanging out in sustained laybacks and placing good pro. Unique and beautiful climbing!


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : The Left Side : Paintbrush (5.10b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: It's logical and considerably easier to climb straight up at the bulge near the top (after placing pro in the A-frame crack), then traverse left, leaving a directional for the second. Juggy face holds. When the pitch is done this way, the crux is definitely on the lower crack, which is quite a lot harder than it looks.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : The Left Side : Thistle Crack (5.9)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: A little dirty but still quite fun.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: It's 3.8 miles to the Tiger Cliff from the trailhead. Took us Front Rangers 1.75 hours in and about 1.5 hours out. We had to wade a significant creek in early July...probably easy to cross without wading later in the season. Gorgeous area. The climbs were a little gritty in early season but still very fun.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: It's 3.8 miles to the Tiger Cliff from the trailhead. Took us Front Rangers 1.75 hours in and about 1.5 hours out. We had to wade a significant creek in early July...probably easy to cross without wading later in the season. Gorgeous area.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun little crag, definitely worth a visit, but there are fewer routes than shown here (there is duplication). The two long 5.10s in the middle (first and second routes to the left of the 5.9) are listed twice here, and also there are only two 5.10s on the shorter right side. In all, there are 10 bolted lines here, not the 13 listed on this site. Having done all but two of them now, my opinion on the approximate grades:

From left to right:

5.9 (depending on how you do it)
Didn't do, s... more >>


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Three's a Charm (5.10-)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This may be the same route as Night and Day or it may be a linkup, starting with the first few bolts of the 5.11 to the left and then moving into Night and Day after that route's crux. There is no independent 5.10a in here.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Night and Day (5.10b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: This route and Three's a Charm may be the same: There are only two 5.10s immediately left of the 5.9.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag : Wolfman Shuffle (5.11b)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Tremendous route.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Weak Force (5.11c/d)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: You can plug a gold Camalot or equivalent between the first and second bolt for TR protection during the crux. Nice for those of us who hate falling over roofs.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: This is a really nice little crag that stays in the shade until mid-afternoon. There are now four routes, each with the crux down low and then steep, fun, interesting climbing all the way to the top. All four seemed like mid- to hard 5.11, albeit with the benefit of Richard's draws hanging and waiting for us. Great find, Richard!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Automatic Choke (5.11c R)
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: For wusses like me, it's convenient to TR this route from the anchors on Cannabis Sportiva. Short but fun.


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