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Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
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Doug Hemken
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Total Points: 5,630

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 2861 | Routes 170 | Areas 35 | Approach Trails 8 | Photos 668 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 545 | Posts 792 | Stars 541 | Ratings 91
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... > Bill's Buttress > Cheatah (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: "Thoroughfare" is very similar, as aid.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... > Bill's Buttress > Cheatah (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Joel, I think I'd call it C2. Occasional gear that you might not want catching a big fall? But never more than one less-than-terrific piece in a row. Once they start stacking up into a house of cards, that's what I think of as C3.

It's probably been 7-10 years since I aided this, so my memory may be playing tricks on me. I remember a couple of cam hook moves I thought were exciting.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... > Cleopatra's Needle > Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: There are quite a few towers around here with *no* bolts on top, and even 1 or 2 that were formerly bolted where the bolt has been abandoned.

I'm as happy rapping off this bolt as I am rapping off Devil's Doorway. I'm more worried about the wobbly summit block, frankly. One of those came down just last winter!


Location: Wisconsin > Hillbilly Hollow > Hillbilly Routes > 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 29, 2015

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Comments: I assume if a route is popular that people find value in it. You argue that if a route is popular it should be altered?

To be clear, I don't think popularity (or non-popularity) is the bottom line here, just something that ought to be an additional consideration. I'm more with James, bolts here are obviously unnecessary, and the climbing community should be placing the bar higher for ourselves, especially on public land.

While we all appreciate convenience, is that also *all* we care about?


Location: Wisconsin > Hillbilly Hollow > Hillbilly Routes > 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 28, 2015

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Comments: Tony, it sounds to me like you are saying: the greater the number of people who value a route as it is, the more urgently we need to change those values.

You also appear to be saying that most climbers would appreciate always having bolted anchors.

I think most climbers appreciate both sport values and trad values: the simplification and focus of sport routes, and the additional skills and judgement required for trad routes.


Location: Wisconsin > Hillbilly Hollow > Hillbilly Routes > 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: I don't understand: "This would save on going to the top and building an anchor" but "Not everyone wants to climb TR"? People don't climb to the tops of climbs anymore?

The number of ticks on this route here on MP shows that this route is already popular. Altering a route on public land that already has a substantial community of users strikes me as high handed/self centered.

Putting bolts in rocks is totally appropriate in some circumstances. In my opinion, these are not those circumstance... more >>


Location: Wisconsin > Hillbilly Hollow > Hillbilly Routes > 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: Jon, is that likely to happen soon? What kind of tree is it?


Location: Wisconsin > Hillbilly Hollow > Hillbilly Routes > 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: I'd agree with James. This is an established route that already sees plenty of use. The bar for convenience anchors on public land should be set higher than this.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... > Ramsay's Pinnacle > Bloody Shin (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: I took over this page from someone else, and the 5.7 rating is theirs. I thought this felt like a 5.8, myself.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... > Ramsay's Pinnacle > Eagle Dihedral (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Named for the two very talkative bald eagles who flew over our heads earlier in the day.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... > Ramsay's Pinnacle > Pit Start (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: If you skip the pit start, and step across, this is leadable at 5.8 or so.

It is also possible to step across and finish to the left, on "Burt's", maybe 5.6 or 5.7?

Both of these variations have been done, but not by me.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... > Ramsay's Pinnacle > Burt's Beta (5.10b) > Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: "Burt's Beta" starts at the left corner, and climbs up along the edges and incipient cracks (the black streaks in this photo) moving toward the right.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 08 - North End > Elephant Rocks > Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: I don't see the elephant myself, but look at this old "postcard"
wisconsinhistory.org/Content.a...


Location: Wisconsin > Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) > Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: On the one hand, cute - I'd almost call that art.

On the other hand, we need to figure out how to clean up the graffiti at this place!


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... > 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall > AAHRG (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: If your fingers ache when you're done, you are probably doing it more like her! (I'm not that strong.)


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... > Bill's Buttress > Coatimundi Crack (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: I routinely use a 60m rope on this: lead, and set the TR so that the masterpoint is 2-3 feet below the rim? Requires a little care to be lowered on that, but a 70 should make this really easy.

This is one part of DL where you should always knot the belayer's end of the rope.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > El Capitan > Southwest Face > The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Odd that anyone would refer to the Nose as a free route. Out of respect for Warren Harding and his partners, who first found, pioneered, and ascended this route, it should *always* be referred to as an aid route. Everyone who has "freed" it since has used aid in their initial ascent of the route.


Location: Wisconsin > Central Sandstone > Quincy Bluff and Wetland Re...
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: What is the climbing/bouldering history of this area?


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... > Many Pines Buttress > Sewing Machine (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure I know how to characterize a "5.6 leader." Does this mean someone whose gymnastic limit is 5.6 and has never climbed before? Someone who regularly leads 5.6s, but not 5.7s?

"Sewing Machine" is not easy to protect, and it requires climbing skills not usually needed at the Lake. Those are two separate issues.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... > Moldy Buttress > Horticulture (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: I think the quality of the pro depends on how closely you hug the roof: the conundrum is better pro and (slightly) harder moves, or easier moves and little good pro.

I would characterize this as an intermediate leading problem at a low gymnastic level. Not a great first lead, but a good 5.4 to lead.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 03 - West of the... > Bird-Foot Buttress > Mother and Apple Pie (5.10a PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Went back and did this again. Cool, devious moves. Sustained.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > West Bluff - Stettner Rocks > Stettner Rocks > The Niche (5.5) > Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Climb the right hand wall in the dihedral (the shaded wall).


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > West Bluff - Stettner Rocks > Stettner Rocks > Untied Shoes (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: This looks contrived, but climbs pretty naturally once you take your feet off the ground. More fun than it looks.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > West Bluff - Stettner Rocks > Stettner Rocks > The Mantle Shelf (5.8 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: What Andy describes sounds more like The Niche, finished straight up the crack.

I watched 5-6 do the Mantle Shelf yesterday, using 3-4 different methods. Only one person got it on the first try. The key hold for pulling through can only be reached after you are fully committed to the mantle, and is not particularly obvious.

Humbling. Even Pete C. had to think about it (but then rocked it).


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Half Dome > Snake Dike (5.7 R) > Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: This view emphasizes the horizontal distance and minimizes the vertical ... but it also gives you a good sense of what you do!


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