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Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Doug Hemken

Doug Hemken
is a member of
Point Rank: # 78
Total Points: 5,235

249 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2703 | Routes 160 | Areas 31 | Photos 651 | Page Improvements 10 | Comments 525 | Posts 718 | Stars 523 | Ratings 85
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Ahab (5.10b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 7, 2017

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Comments: I remember the first time you tried this route, on TR. You laybacked it!


Location: Wisconsin : Black Hawk Lake Recreation ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: Nice of Arch to pose for scale


Location: Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Cox Hollow
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: Heard from an enthusiastic ranger yesterday that this area is sometimes called "Harms Falls" (I'm not sure where to put an apostrophe in that). Good name!


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: RW *did* in fact go back and suggest a rating of 5.8R, as you see under his name in the comments here, or by clicking through on the details. The median remains 5.6R at this time, but it's actually pretty close between 5.6R and 5.7R.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Fuzzy Undercling (5.11b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: If you've never seen or heard of anyone flipping while falling, you need to get out more.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Double Overhang (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 20, 2016

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Comments: Coulda' almost used a longer sling under the roof there!


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Far East Area
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 14, 2016

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Comments: I think Paul Jones told me about the rock out here, a few years ago. Nice to know he wasn't just pulling my leg! You four could well be the only people who have climbed those rocks, for all I've heard (or not heard)!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: There are lots of people who climb *because* they are afraid of heights.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.3 - The Turret : Lumby Ridge (pitch 3) (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: Mason, go ahead and post this as a new route. BTW it's "Lumby", not "lumpy"! He was a climber at the Lake before any of us were born.

I can move your photos when you've posted the route. Give it a name, too.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.3 - The Turret : Lumby Ridge (pitch 3) (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Doesn't really look to me like Lumby Ridge ... but it does look fun!


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheat... : Working on the Railroad (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: From this point you can finish straight up (no more pro), or step right and get one more shallow cam.


Location:
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: The colors and values chosen for this topo-photo make it very difficult to read, and someone who is color-blind will find it impossible. I'd suggest white for the route and black for the rap route, or vice versa.


Location: Arkansas : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : First Time Up (5.8+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: Prettier (and less burly) than it looks from the ground!

I used two #3s and two #4s, and had to think a little about where I wanted to leave what. I also used a large nut.


Location: Arkansas : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Orange Crush (5.9+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: We had at least two very different solutions to the crux ... naturally the easier beta was not the solution that seemed obvious to me!


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: 12 oz pro works perfectly for this crack!


Location: Wisconsin : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Fire(s)? I can't imagine that would have been a good place for logging.

Chris - aren't those modern photos from different angles? Which exaggerates the difference?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Lower Diagonal (5.8) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Interesting how similar the gear placement (location) is, between you, Andy, and Nick.

A bit like leading "Chicago", no?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : Full Park Link-Ups : Half Century Scrambler (Easy 5th)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Burt, that would be a trade secret!

Actually, you are the person who taught me it is worthwhile rappelling for runs like this - only two or three formations where we didn't rappel.

Matt, we skipped three routes we intended to do that had people on them, but Kenosis was not one we had to skip! Hope we didn't rush you, we had lots of other options.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : Full Park Link-Ups : Half Century Scrambler (Easy 5th)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: We parked at the CCC, and did this car-to-car in 9:40. 52 routes, because I lost track, and because Gokul wanted to do one more after what we thought was 50.

No Sweat
route 1
route 10

Guillotine Wall
Broken Boulders
Beginner's Chimney
Beginner's Nose
Levitation

Guillotine
route 49
Barefoot Crack
Guillotine Chimney West
Anarchist Crack

D'Arcy's Buttress
30 Second Crack
Easy... more >>


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pigeon (5.11b R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: Early fall, perfect sending temps! Also, not in direct sun, so no wasps. He marched right up it, as I recall.


Location: Doug Hemken : Gear : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: Yeah, 10 years later I'm not sure which back shelf these ended up on!


Location: Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Those berry bushes grow fast - so the informal trails tend to get grown over in the summer. The best approach is to park where you did, then head directly up to High Anxiety. But this can be hard to pick out when there are still leaves on the trees.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 03 - West of the... : Bird-Foot Buttress : Face Value (5.10+ PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: I remember trying this about a year ago - I think my companion got it after a few tries. Seemed 11-ish to me!

We did not even think about leading it! Way to go!


Location: Wisconsin : Grandad's Bluff : Witches Cauldron : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Dave, do you want them to stop?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: We wandered over from Split Tower to start on pitch "3". I'd call it 4 more pitches to the top (so 5 or 6 total), 5.6ish to the base of Turk's Head and Weissner Wall. Saw lots of enticing variations to explore, especially to the right of the Ridge.

I note with some irony that the "usual" finish does not seem to include actually climbing the Turk's Head! And why does no one ... more >>


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