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Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Clocher - clochetons Traverse" ...


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Doug Hemken

Doug Hemken
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Point Rank: # 78
Total Points: 5,783
Last Year: 381
Last 30 Days: 5
241 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2645 | Routes 159 | Areas 31 | Photos 636 | Page Improvements 10 | Comments 518 | Posts 684 | Stars 522 | Ratings 85
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: There are lots of people who climb *because* they are afraid of heights.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.3 - The Turret : Lumby Ridge (pitch 3) (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: Mason, go ahead and post this as a new route. BTW it's "Lumby", not "lumpy"! He was a climber at the Lake before any of us were born.

I can move your photos when you've posted the route. Give it a name, too.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.3 - The Turret : Lumby Ridge (pitch 3) (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Doesn't really look to me like Lumby Ridge ... but it does look fun!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheat... : Working on the Railroad (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: From this point you can finish straight up (no more pro), or step right and get one more shallow cam.


Location:
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: The colors and values chosen for this topo-photo make it very difficult to read, and someone who is color-blind will find it impossible. I'd suggest white for the route and black for the rap route, or vice versa.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : First Time Up (5.8+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: Prettier (and less burly) than it looks from the ground!

I used two #3s and two #4s, and had to think a little about where I wanted to leave what. I also used a large nut.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Orange Crush (5.9+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: We had at least two very different solutions to the crux ... naturally the easier beta was not the solution that seemed obvious to me!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: 12 oz pro works perfectly for this crack!


Location: WI : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Fire(s)? I can't imagine that would have been a good place for logging.

Chris - aren't those modern photos from different angles? Which exaggerates the difference?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Lower Diagonal (5.8) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Interesting how similar the gear placement (location) is, between you, Andy, and Nick.

A bit like leading "Chicago", no?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : Full Park Link-Ups : Half Century Scrambler (Easy 5th)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Burt, that would be a trade secret!

Actually, you are the person who taught me it is worthwhile rappelling for runs like this - only two or three formations where we didn't rappel.

Matt, we skipped three routes we intended to do that had people on them, but Kenosis was not one we had to skip! Hope we didn't rush you, we had lots of other options.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : Full Park Link-Ups : Half Century Scrambler (Easy 5th)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: We parked at the CCC, and did this car-to-car in 9:40. 52 routes, because I lost track, and because Gokul wanted to do one more after what we thought was 50.

No Sweat
route 1
route 10

Guillotine Wall
Broken Boulders
Beginner's Chimney
Beginner's Nose
Levitation

Guillotine
route 49
Barefoot Crack
Guillotine Chimney West
Anarchist Crack

D'Arcy's Buttress
30 Second Crack
Easy... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pigeon (5.11b R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: Early fall, perfect sending temps! Also, not in direct sun, so no wasps. He marched right up it, as I recall.


Location: Doug Hemken : Gear : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: Yeah, 10 years later I'm not sure which back shelf these ended up on!


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Those berry bushes grow fast - so the informal trails tend to get grown over in the summer. The best approach is to park where you did, then head directly up to High Anxiety. But this can be hard to pick out when there are still leaves on the trees.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 03 - West of the... : Bird-Foot Buttress : Face Value (5.10+ PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: I remember trying this about a year ago - I think my companion got it after a few tries. Seemed 11-ish to me!

We did not even think about leading it! Way to go!


Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Witches Cauldron : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Dave, do you want them to stop?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: We wandered over from Split Tower to start on pitch "3". I'd call it 4 more pitches to the top (so 5 or 6 total), 5.6ish to the base of Turk's Head and Weissner Wall. Saw lots of enticing variations to explore, especially to the right of the Ridge.

I note with some irony that the "usual" finish does not seem to include actually climbing the Turk's Head! And why does no one ... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Split Tower : Moon Face (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Avoiding the right-hand corner makes this a bit harder.

The first piece of pro is a small/micro cam. I'd call this lead PG because of the difficulty placing gear from not-enough-crimps. However the gear is well enough spaced, and bomber, and the crux isn't too far from the ground.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : An Eye For an Eye (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: Do you mean the face at the top of "Turn the Other Cheek"? or around the corner to the left?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Pigeon Roof (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: It has been quite a few years since pigeons nested here.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Switch Cover Crack (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Hmm, missed an opportunity to call this "Think Outside the Box"!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Talus From Gnarnia (V3 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: This boulder, and this post, appeared in the local Madison newspaper, discussing
graffiti and the follow up that quotes this post .


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Great Mass in C Minor (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: First few moves are hard to rate - I could see variations from 5.5 to 5.9, depending on what holds you consider "on".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.2.1 - Birthday Rocks : Birthday Crack (5.7+) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: I'm always draw into this photo, when I see it. The way you have the rocks framed, Nick, really gives the route a sweeping feel. And of course, Phil's characteristic grin! Great morning light, perfect moment.


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