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Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Doug Hemken

Doug Hemken
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Point Rank: # 78
Total Points: 5,238

250 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2718 | Routes 160 | Areas 31 | Photos 651 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 531 | Posts 726 | Stars 523 | Ratings 85
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Waxing Moon (5.12a)
By: Doug Hemken When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I'll think about cleaning up Full Moon and Chicken. But we need better beta if we're going to keep this as a new route - two weeks?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Waxing Moon (5.12a)
By: Doug Hemken When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Oh, I see, you relied on the description for "Full Moon" here on MP?

Sound like you actually did "Full Moon", but maybe missed some key crimps.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Waxing Moon (5.12a)
By: Doug Hemken When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Do you mean *left* of Full Moon and *right* of Hero's Fright?
Kind of hard to stay completely between the two, since they come within inches of each other ....


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Courthouse Rock : Standard Route (4th) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: Standard Route is actually up the "backside" (from this angle).


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Courthouse Rock : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: Left-hand ridge, then?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Greatest Bluff
By: Doug Hemken When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: We'll want to put up a sign there, telling people how they *should* access these boulders.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Ahab (5.10b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 7, 2017

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Comments: I remember the first time you tried this route, on TR. You laybacked it!


Location: Wisconsin : Black Hawk Lake Recreation ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: Nice of Arch to pose for scale


Location: Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : G Dodge Ice : Cox Hollow
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: Heard from an enthusiastic ranger yesterday that this area is sometimes called "Harms Falls" (I'm not sure where to put an apostrophe in that). Good name!


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: RW *did* in fact go back and suggest a rating of 5.8R, as you see under his name in the comments here, or by clicking through on the details. The median remains 5.6R at this time, but it's actually pretty close between 5.6R and 5.7R.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Fuzzy Undercling (5.11b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: If you've never seen or heard of anyone flipping while falling, you need to get out more.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Double Overhang (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 20, 2016

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Comments: Coulda' almost used a longer sling under the roof there!


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Far East Area
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 14, 2016

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Comments: I think Paul Jones told me about the rock out here, a few years ago. Nice to know he wasn't just pulling my leg! You four could well be the only people who have climbed those rocks, for all I've heard (or not heard)!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: There are lots of people who climb *because* they are afraid of heights.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.3 - The Turret : Lumby Ridge (pitch 3) (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: Mason, go ahead and post this as a new route. BTW it's "Lumby", not "lumpy"! He was a climber at the Lake before any of us were born.

I can move your photos when you've posted the route. Give it a name, too.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.3 - The Turret : Lumby Ridge (pitch 3) (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Doesn't really look to me like Lumby Ridge ... but it does look fun!


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheat... : Working on the Railroad (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: From this point you can finish straight up (no more pro), or step right and get one more shallow cam.


Location:
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: The colors and values chosen for this topo-photo make it very difficult to read, and someone who is color-blind will find it impossible. I'd suggest white for the route and black for the rap route, or vice versa.


Location: Arkansas : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : First Time Up (5.8+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: Prettier (and less burly) than it looks from the ground!

I used two #3s and two #4s, and had to think a little about where I wanted to leave what. I also used a large nut.


Location: Arkansas : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Orange Crush (5.9+)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: We had at least two very different solutions to the crux ... naturally the easier beta was not the solution that seemed obvious to me!


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: 12 oz pro works perfectly for this crack!


Location: Wisconsin : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Fire(s)? I can't imagine that would have been a good place for logging.

Chris - aren't those modern photos from different angles? Which exaggerates the difference?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Lower Diagonal (5.8) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Interesting how similar the gear placement (location) is, between you, Andy, and Nick.

A bit like leading "Chicago", no?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : Full Park Link-Ups : Half Century Scrambler (Easy 5th)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Burt, that would be a trade secret!

Actually, you are the person who taught me it is worthwhile rappelling for runs like this - only two or three formations where we didn't rappel.

Matt, we skipped three routes we intended to do that had people on them, but Kenosis was not one we had to skip! Hope we didn't rush you, we had lots of other options.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : Full Park Link-Ups : Half Century Scrambler (Easy 5th)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: We parked at the CCC, and did this car-to-car in 9:40. 52 routes, because I lost track, and because Gokul wanted to do one more after what we thought was 50.

No Sweat
route 1
route 10

Guillotine Wall
Broken Boulders
Beginner's Chimney
Beginner's Nose
Levitation

Guillotine
route 49
Barefoot Crack
Guillotine Chimney West
Anarchist Crack

D'Arcy's Buttress
30 Second Crack
Easy... more >>


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