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Member Since: Sep 26, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,757
Total Points: 277

33 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 1817 | Routes 5 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 43 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 117 | Posts 1401 | Stars 172 | Ratings 75
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+) : Photo
By: doligo When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: Maybe it's the angle of the photo, but it looks like one of the variations of Three Pine, but not the 2nd pitch of Something Interesting. Those stacked blocks of Three Pines 3rd pitch look awfully close.


Location: New Hampshire : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Willard (Ice) : South Face - Lower : Great Madness (WI5) : Photo
By: doligo When: Dec 14, 2010

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Comments: When was this taken? This year?


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Groovy (5.8+)
By: doligo When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: Agree with Analogical - one of the easier .8s in the Gunks. You can stem the whole thing up and over, even the traverse if you have flexible hips.


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... : -sp : sp115 : Photo
By: doligo When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: Steve, that looks like Ron, no?


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Alphonse (5.8)
By: doligo When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: As of 11/13 there was a fat static line and two locking biners fixed for rap on the tree on top of Alphonse. Me and my partner walked off, but afterwards I kept seeing people rapping off the tree and a group of teens even set a giant top rope on Alphonse (assuming off that tree). Someone needs to bring a knife up and chop the slings off that tree!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Columbia (5.8)
By: doligo When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: Agree with Seth - P2 is awesome. The crux is between two pins. After that, it's a sustained but pleasant jughaul. Instead of diagonaling right to Madame G's rings, I went straight up the left-facing corner to the GT ledge just under a big roof. My partner finished on the overhang - really nice short pitch, just a tiny bit dirty. I think this is the 5.9- part. This corner roof needs more traffic.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: doligo When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: Just followed the route this weekend and am taking my above comment back - the traverse from the right hand corner start is damn hard! Can't believe I had led it on a 100 degree sweltering summer day. The OW is still a lot of fun. BETA ALERT: the OW is easier if you jam the left side of the body and use little footsteps on the right edge of the crack. Jamming the right side of the body is tougher. YMMV.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Belly (5.8+ PG13)
By: doligo When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: Got to only lead P1 as it was getting dark. I used an offset brassie and a green ballnut to protect initial moves. Roof felt hard for a 5.8, but there is a bomber fingerlock on top, so bomber that I was afraid I would rip my finger off if my feet came off (feet looked sleek). After fussing around and cutting my cuticles, I thought it wasn't worth risking a broken finger, so I bypassed the roof on the right and then traversed back to the corner crack. The crack above the roof is wide! I grunte... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: doligo When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: J.Albers, where would you have the red rope? behind the left thigh? when I belay doubles, I feed them out equally, i.e. the red rope would have enough slack not to flip the leader over if he fell...


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: doligo When: Nov 5, 2010

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Comments: There is a pin on the right side of the dihedral, right by where you're supposed to exit onto the face. I also thought the start of the pitch was a bit uncomfortable even with the pin - even getting to it is kind of spicy - there is big boulder on the GT ledge right underneath so you can't just jump off if you had to.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: doligo When: Nov 2, 2010

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Comments: I would like to blame it on sore muscles from trailwork the day before and on numb fingers from cold, but it's the same lame excuse as being short! Can't wait to get back on it.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: doligo When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: Couple of notes, the Grey Dick divides the climb into 2 pitches: P1 follows the crack all the way to the GT Ledge (140 feet), it really doesn't make sense breaking the pitch into 2, unless you want to talk your second through the crux #1. Oh, and there is no need to follow pitons - the route follows the most obvious crack - it can be seen from the carriage road. P2 goes up left facing corner, swings right onto the face, then traverses left to the right facing corner up to bolted anchors.... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dennis (5.5)
By: doligo When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: PG is not for the crux, but for the run-out slab above the crux, IMO. The crux itself is well protected.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : ... : Photo
By: doligo When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: Way better photo than the one used for the climb beta. Mods, please make it the cover photo!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+)
By: doligo When: Oct 14, 2010

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Comments: 5.6 start protects pretty well with small cams, I agree it has some greasy feeling to it though...


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Alpine Diversions (5.8)
By: doligo When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: The open book leading to the final roof looks pretty sweet, but the crack in the middle of it, is filled with dirt and grass and the next jug is pretty high up at least for me. So I went right, to the nose and skipped the open book and traversed back to the roof. In retrospect, I should have tried cleaning it with my nut tool - maybe someone reading this can do that, this will also create a good pro for the move I think...

P1 starting move sucks for shorties - I squeezed myself into the chimney... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Limelight (5.7)
By: doligo When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: P2 has more quality moves than P2 of Arrow, IMO.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Uberfall Descent (Easy 5th) : Photo
By: doligo When: Sep 30, 2010

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Comments: Aspiring mountaineers gotta try this descent in a rain!


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton : Northwest Ice Couloir (5.6 AI2-3) : Photo
By: doligo When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Great photo! When was it taken? We looked over it from the Grand a week ago - friends wanted to climb it...


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Photo
By: doligo When: Aug 13, 2010

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Comments: What an excellent lighting and colors! What camera is this?


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Columbia (5.8)
By: doligo When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: Agree with Seth - totally G. I plugged so much gear in anticipation of PG, it was ridiculous. I only did P1 - soft .8


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Oscar and Charlie (5.7)
By: doligo When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: Better, more sustained way to approach Strictly's roof, IMO. Finished on Shockley's Ceiling.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Asphodel (5.5)
By: doligo When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: If Credibility Gap is occupied, don't hesitate to jump on Asphodel. The route is well protected all the way. Stiff for the grade, sustained climbing. Bring long slings or double ropes.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Credibility Gap (5.6)
By: doligo When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: Asphodel, the climb right next to it, is way better IMO. While I had a #3 with me to protect the exit, you can also place a smaller cam closer to the nose of the traverse.

Rappel: 2 60M will get you all the way to the ground, just make sure to throw ropes skier's right (or they will get tangled in the pine tree on P1 belay).


Location: Maine : j. The Maine Highlands (inc... : Katahdin : Chimney Pond ("South") Basi... : The Armadillo (5.7)
By: doligo When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: I have a question about the climb - it says you have to leave the camp by 8am. Does it mean that you need to stay overnight there? Is it not possible to do the climb in a day car to car? Thanks!


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