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Member Since: Dec 21, 2011
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Mark Dalen

Point Rank: # 857
Total Points: 840

18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark Dalen been climbing?










Contributions


All 333 | Routes 18 | Areas 6 | Photos 133 | Page Improvements | Comments 72 | Posts 85 | Stars 18 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Chaos Crag : Mucho Jale (5.12b)
By: Mark Dalen When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: Not to worry ... DS probably does exit left significantly below the roof ... it's a blank face you wouldn't recognize unless you were looking for it to traverse to that major crackline the rest of the route follows (the first ascent skyhooked across) ... I remember P1 as being good quality & a lot of fun ... don't remember being very attracted to that bodacious overhang....

As for clarifying the line on DS, I don't think that is really an issue. My sense is that, if you're ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Chaos Crag : Mucho Jale (5.12b)
By: Mark Dalen When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: FWIW this is the first pitch of Duck Soup ... 'disconnected cracks' came from the Hill guide entry written by either Meleski or Bridgers - it seemed to fit my memory of the pitch ... not sure why the bolt is not there unless my memory is bad & it's farther left of the belay ... proud line out the roof though....


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Chaos Crag : Duck Soup (5.10 R)
By: Mark Dalen When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments: George - thanks for the catch ... descent beta has been modified accordingly ...


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Direct North Buttress (DNB) (5.10b)
By: Mark Dalen When: Jun 2, 2017

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Comments: When I did this with my partner Paul Horak in 1976, it had the reputation of being the longest, hardest free climb in the Valley (Astro Man soon took over that title) ... knowing what I was getting into, I wonder if I would have gone on it ... wisely, we planned on 2 days with a bivouac on the Powell-Reed ledges halfway ... hand-hauled a small knapsack packed with a 2-man bivvy shell, water & flannel shirts ... nice bivvy looking at El Cap over our feet, but ran out of water on the 2nd day ... e... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Blood on the Blade (5.10 R)
By: Mark Dalen When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: One of the more imposing route names out there ... seems like I recall PH proposing an extended name: 'Bloody Baltz on the Bloody Blade Bleeding' ... somehow I never got on it ... good add, though ... Mark


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Mark Dalen When: Jan 4, 2017

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Comments: Bolts ... the kids these days!


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Moon : Moonquakes (5.12- A1 X) : Photo
By: Mark Dalen When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Gorgeous!


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Torres de Polvo : Trump Tower (5.9)
By: Mark Dalen When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: You'll be so tired of climbing this tower you won't want to climb anymore ...


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Fat City, Indian School : Upper Fat City Drainage : 1/4" Minus (V8)
By: Mark Dalen When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: Will & Owen - sounds incredible, I know ... of course I can't vouch for the sit start, that must have come later ... still I'm inclined to believe Paul's story if only on principle ... so much was done back then that went unrecorded ... I did what I could to keep up with my newsletter, but that ended when I left ABQ in 79 ... not just here but over in Three Gun Springs a group was active that included Paul & Dave, Mike Head & Dirk VanWi... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Fat City, Indian School : Upper Fat City Drainage : 1/4" Minus (V8)
By: Mark Dalen When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Paul Horak just reported this face was first done by a guy called 'Lunging Dave' out of Colorado ... according to Paul, he & Dave Baltz worked on it for months, then one day he showed it to Lunging Dave, who promptly sent it on sight ... this would have been in the mid 80s ...


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Boot Hill : Cowboy Yoga (5.10d)
By: Mark Dalen When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Sweet line ...


Location: New Mexico : Upper Rio Puerco Valley : Cabezon Peak
By: Mark Dalen When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: For more recent beta on Cabezon including other routes besides SE gully, see this forum post ... Cabezon Peak


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Moon : Mare Frigoris (5.11 A1 R) : Photo
By: Mark Dalen When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: Fine view of the Cowcatcher formation ... the attempted 1979 line starts probably to the right of yours & goes straight up to end just below the overhangs at about 3/4 height....


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Moon : Mare Frigoris (5.11 A1 R)
By: Mark Dalen When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: 007 - this looks to be the exact line of that 'bodacious multi-pitch free climb' anticipated by one of my cover page comments ... while not encouraged by the 'choss' description, I am crazy stoked to learn this line got sent ... nice job! More photos!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : ... : Photo
By: Mark Dalen When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: This pitch was so swarming with silverfish my first time on it (1975) that I freaked & bailed ...


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : No Questa About It (5.9)
By: Mark Dalen When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: I could've sworn we did it in 3 pitches as shown in the topo ... you led P1, I know, & I led P2 ... maybe Bruce led P3 as in Paul's notes? ... you definitely led the crack/arete pitch ... it's so hard to remember without photos to back it up ... I just remember it was a lot of fun!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7) : Photo
By: Mark Dalen When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: FWIW, it is possible to escape the direct start after P2...this would be right where the '5.7' notation is in this photo...if there happens to be a party ahead of you kicking down a large amount of rubble as there was for us & as it is nearly impossible not to do.... Follow the grassy ramp left to intersect with the original line.... Here is a photo looking down on that traverse, that is from the top of our P3:

Rock Climbing Photo: P3 traverse off Direct Start, Ellingwood Ledges, 2...
P3 traverse off Direct Start, Ellingwood Ledges, 2002....


Also do pay close attention to the descent info presented by numero... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Fat City, Indian School : Upper Fat City Drainage
By: Mark Dalen When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: The installation of the flood control dam in the late 70s was a game changer for Embudo all right. On the one hand it weeded out the staminally challenged ... no longer was it necessary to dodge the bullets fired by drunken paramilitary types from the parking lot below ... nowadays the only danger is of stepping in a dog turd on the trail up ... on the other hand it got harder to squeeze in a few hours of bouldering on weeknights after classes ... in some ways it was the end of an era ... Embud... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : The Manatee (V4-5)
By: Mark Dalen When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: Dave - English major - it has to be good for something, right? [BTW the offensive claws has been removed].

For the record the vid above is of the FA, done with no pads (what is a pad?) & barely any spotters (witness .20 onward) ... Dave & others had worked on it for months (or 'projected' as the kids say these days) ... the final send came on a louring winter day when I just happened to be there with my dad's super 8 camera ... not sure who first dubbed it the Manatee, we always just c... more >>


Location: Texas : Hueco Tanks : Photo
By: Mark Dalen When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: King Rat!-tler ...


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Aviary Ort Overhangs (5.9)
By: Mark Dalen When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: I did this in the fall of 1978. No one at that time would have considered rapping after 2 pitches. Since that option is on the table let me mention 2 factors to consider for the last pitch:

1) Communication is nil
2) Rock is awfully loose after the lichen filled dihedral

There is a hair raising story that goes with these 2 notes ... but leave that for another day. Aviary Ort in my mind stands as that rare Sandias climb that is neither over nor underrated....


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Mark Dalen When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: The SW Ridge is classic the same way some old movies are classic. Not as measured against sound & visual effects or acting styles today but for the leap in possibilities they represented at the time. For some the sight of the SW Ridge silhouetted against the setting sun is compelling enough to overcome the mediocre rock itself, for others that won't matter a darn. Top-to-top approach is highly recommended. Also recommend simul climbing for those inclined - huge stretches in between the first... more >>


Location: Colorado : Durango : Pine River Trad : The Pope's Nose : Contraceptive Cracks (5.10 A3-)
By: Mark Dalen When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: I had strained my lower back, Ken, as you may recall, & Paul caught some stomach virus ... my high point was the bolted stance below the roof where you took the pic above. Would like nothing better than to go back & tidy up loose ends ... however, once that starts, it might never end. Good job on filling out the page here....


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : North Buttress (5.10a)
By: Mark Dalen When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: 'Burly' is the right word for P5 ... is it just me or is that 'chimney' following the finger crack not one of the most sandbag 5.8s the Valley has to offer ... ?


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : ... : Photo
By: Mark Dalen When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: So that's how that is done ...


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