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Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact Shirtless Mike

Shirtless Mike
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Point Rank: # 84
Total Points: 4,935

61 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Shirtless Mike been climbing?










Contributions


All 2939 | Routes 392 | Areas 41 | Photos 102 | Page Improvements | Comments 326 | Posts 74 | Stars 1817 | Ratings 187
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Goodbye Doublewide (5.13a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Feb 15, 2017

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Comments: By far the most continuous and probably best of the harder lines on Tornado Alley. Not as hard of a crux as Rolling Thunder though.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Bandit (5.12c)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Feb 15, 2017

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Comments: Good bouldery route, with two ways to go thru the crux. Felt pretty hard for 12c to me, similar in difficulty to Anthrax Letters and the crux of Couch Potato.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Alcatraz : Flight Risk (5.12a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: With some more traffic, this should clean up to be three stars. The upper headwall should be really fun. So bring a brush for now.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : Dairy Queen (5.13b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Luke, that would be "Drag Queen" not listed here, which is somewhere around 13c - 14a depending on where you traverse across the wall. Starts with the ~V7 sit start below Gollum.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Land Phil (5.11d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: Now has 10 closely spaced bolts.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Fullphilment (5.11b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: Rebolted with new glue-ins. A few bolts must have been added as it didn't feel any more runout than any other Rifle 5.11.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Cheat Death (V9)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: A good video showing Whale Shark, V7, and Cheat Death can be found at:



Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Jungle Gym : Put It In the Ting Ting (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: There is a 12' section of this that is really amazing on good deep pockets. Unfortunately the section below this is quite easy, and the above section is quite awkward. But the climb is well worth doing for this section.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wicked Cave : Shades (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: I've heard this one has cleaned up a bunch in the last few years. Felt like a pretty quality climb to me. The large death blocks are still there at the top, they looked solid enough, but probably best to avoid them. Almost three stars.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : My Generation (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Sure felt 13a for this shorter climber. Probably feels easier if you can keep your feet on the ledge while making the crux moves. Long draw and clipping from the underclings was key for me.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Inner Gorilla (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: When we got to this line the only chalk was way left of the arete on large holds (impossible to lead while using these holds) and the chalk from the left hand holds on "Portrait in Flesh" After looking thru the pictures I realize that I climbed this route much more on the arete and left of the arete than the FA. I used pinches and underclings on the arete for the right hand, and crimps and sidepulls left of the arete for the left hand. Grade felt about 12d, however the falls felt like they co... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Love Your Enemies (5.12a/b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Kch16, New River Wall and the trail to it are both open. Just be sure to stay in the US Route 6 corridor as you approach. With a close look at the sign, you can see the corridor that is still open.
From JeffCo website jeffco.us/open-space/news/2016... "another area of Clear Creek Canyon Park, near Tunnel 2, is closed to all public use uphill of the U.S. Route 6 corridor from February 1 through July 31 to protect an active golden eagle nest... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Love Your Inclinations (5.12b/c)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: This route is pretty fun and well worth doing as a second warm-up or a cool down at the end of the day. The boulder problem over the triangle roof is quite good. To help with rope drag, skip the clip after the triangle roof boulder problem. The fall will be long but quite clean.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Winslow Areas : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Total Lack of Jump (5.12a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: While I agree that this climb is totally worth doing and is comparable to many other climbs on Main Wall, there is no way it is anywhere close to four stars. I can only think of one heavily manufactured (but barely noticeable) sport climb in the US that I would give four stars to. This thing is so blatantly and heavily manufactured that although the climbing is fun it is only one star from me. That is why Jack's canyon classics like Haul of Flame and Unpopular Mechanics only get two stars fro... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Midget Proof Direct (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: After talking with some others who had gotten on this route, it might deserve an upgrade and the crux might be V7.


Location: New Mexico : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : Unknown (5.10a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Hey Rich, I don't think so, looking at your photo of "Mega Man" it looks like "Mega Man" starts left of where this route is. It does look like this route could easily be linked into "Mega Man". If you're down there again soon, check for sure and I'll update if necessary. Thanks!


Location: New Mexico : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Jornada Del Muerto (5.12c)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: Grade is still up for debate, might be as low as 12c, could be as hard as low 13a, depends on how hard the crux moves are. Needs some additional ascents for confirmation. The moves are pretty awesome, however the rock is sub-par, hopefully the holds will hang in there.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Sacrificial Pig (5.12c/d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: This route is actually pretty good, even though it looks a bit dirty and chossy. With some more ascents and cleaning this would probably be a solid 2-3 stars. I didn't find any super hard crux, more of a pumpy power endurance type of line. The moves getting past the 4th bolt are pretty challenging though. While hanging the draws the bolting felt pretty sparse, with some potentially awkward falls, however on redpoint it didn't feel too bad. Felt a little harder than other 12c's on Tufa City ... more >>


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Sidewinder (5.12a/b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Interesting route, stiff 12a or easy 12b. A fun wandering climb up great stone, it is too bad that cleaning is such a pain. Maybe consider moving the first chain down a bolt to protect the crux, and make it more useful during cleaning. I skipped the first chain (and a bunch of other bolts to help ropedrag) but it meant getting back to it while cleaning would be a pain. Plan to take a lot of slings and backclean a lot to keep rope drag down.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Ultra-perm (5.13d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Some additional beta; don't read if you want to get the OS.

Climb 5.9/5.11a slab to a no hands rest, you can pre-clip the next bolt and return to the rest. Climb 2 bolts of 12- and begin the crux, ~V7 boulder problem, probably skipping the first bolt into the crux. Persevere to the above bolt get a quick shake and contemplate the 15' run ahead to the jugs and next bolt above. A kneebar in the middle (if you have the right size leg) of this helps get a quick shake before the V4 redpo... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Bald Rock Recreational Pres... : The Bear's Den
By: Shirtless Mike When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: This crag is pretty awesome and destined to be popular once it's included in the guidebook. It makes for a great place to warm-up if you want to avoid the Motherload crowds and do a few new routes. The best way to reach the far right side routes is to start on the undertow trail pass the left side bears down routes and take a right for which will cross the canyon to the right side routes.

The other trail mentioned that starts off the road was overgrown and not easy to follow.


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Observatory Wall (Upper Tie... : You're Scaring the Horses (5.12b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Done & Done, both "La Naris" and "You're scaring the horses" have been moved to the upper tier.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound : Butt Crack (5.12a/b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: This route is actually pretty fun. Some more traffic and it would clean up to be two stars. A pretty challenging start leads to some hand jams in the crack. Once it widens some great kneebar rests can be had, finally some powerful underclinging leads to an easier finish.


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : We Were Jumpers Once and Yo... (5.12b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: The direct finish goes at around 5.12. From the stance where the thin crack breaks out left to the anchors of Endurance (mentioned above as Jumpers to Endurance) continue up to a fixed cable (no biner) and a stance. Either bust straight up probably 5.13 or traverse right across the ledge to a good rest. Climb up the arete, clip the last bolt and make hard (5.12 ish) somewhat committing moves to the anchors.

With some cleaning, and perhaps some bolt re-location the direct finish could be a pr... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Tempest (5.13-)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Great new route! Unique techy then powerful climbing up great rock on a nice steep section of the wall.


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