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Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact Shirtless Mike

Shirtless Mike
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Point Rank: # 86
Total Points: 4,965

64 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Shirtless Mike been climbing?










Contributions


All 3057 | Routes 395 | Areas 41 | Photos 102 | Page Improvements | Comments 334 | Posts 74 | Stars 1917 | Ratings 194
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Never Never Land (5.12a/b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: If all you want is route location and grade, then pick up a copy of Rock Climbing NM by Dennis Jackson. This is a bare bones guidebook that won't mess up a pure OS. I personally don't read the description of a route, comments or look at pictures of a route before I attempt to OS something. But it sure is fun to read the route description & comments later.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Tecolote Cave : Missing Hanger (5.12a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: As the name implies there is a bolt missing between the current 3rd and 4th, you can see the hole if you like close enough. The climbing is a little bold thru this section, but not dangerous.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Salto : Tecolote Cave : Codyote (5.12a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: Great route with cool movement and features. Too bad the rock is so soft, I broke a few more holds, and it's probably low-end 12b now. Hopefully the holds that are there hang in there. Do this route now, before it's 12d. Also use long draws, or back clean the first two bolts to help with rope drag.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Cueva de la Cumbia : Papa Gordo (5.11d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Great tufa climbing on the upper section. Pumpier and more sustained than it looks.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Cueva de la Cumbia : Abuelo Malandro (5.11d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Starts just to the right of the huge cave as the wall curves around. Much easier and better warmup than Papa Gordo to the right.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Cueva de la Cumbia : Tufanatico (5.13a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Crux for me was the bottom near the 4th bolt, with a big move between stalactites. Above there are some bouldery ~V5 sections, but plenty of good rests, it's just a matter of hanging on. The final headwall is harder than it seems it should be with a long section of 11+ face climbing to the anchors.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Cueva de la Cumbia : Celso Piña (5.12c)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Goes out the climbers right of the giant stalactite. Great route, my favorite of the routes I got a chance to climb. Long with all huge holds holds, but not as many rests as the other routes. Easy to find with the mix of chain and climbtech cable draws.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Cueva de la Cumbia : Tufa Colombiana (5.12b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Climbs out the climbers left side of the giant stalactite. A bouldery start, leads to the huge stalactite, then steep climbing on big holds with several great rests leads to the chains.


Location: New Mexico : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Helsinki (5.14d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 17, 2017

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Comments: Congrats Ben!


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Goodbye Doublewide (5.13a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Feb 15, 2017

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Comments: By far the most continuous and probably best of the harder lines on Tornado Alley. Not as hard of a crux as Rolling Thunder though.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Bandit (5.12c)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Feb 15, 2017

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Comments: Good bouldery route, with two ways to go thru the crux. Felt pretty hard for 12c to me, similar in difficulty to Anthrax Letters and the crux of Couch Potato.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Alcatraz : Flight Risk (5.12a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: With some more traffic, this should clean up to be three stars. The upper headwall should be really fun. So bring a brush for now.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : Dairy Queen (5.13b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Luke, that would be "Drag Queen" not listed here, which is somewhere around 13c - 14a depending on where you traverse across the wall. Starts with the ~V7 sit start below Gollum.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Land Phil (5.11d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: Now has 10 closely spaced bolts.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Fullphilment (5.11b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: Rebolted with new glue-ins. A few bolts must have been added as it didn't feel any more runout than any other Rifle 5.11.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Cheat Death (V9)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: A good video showing Whale Shark, V7, and Cheat Death can be found at:



Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Jungle Gym : Put It In the Ting Ting (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: There is a 12' section of this that is really amazing on good deep pockets. Unfortunately the section below this is quite easy, and the above section is quite awkward. But the climb is well worth doing for this section.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wicked Cave : Shades (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: I've heard this one has cleaned up a bunch in the last few years. Felt like a pretty quality climb to me. The large death blocks are still there at the top, they looked solid enough, but probably best to avoid them. Almost three stars.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : My Generation (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Sure felt 13a for this shorter climber. Probably feels easier if you can keep your feet on the ledge while making the crux moves. Long draw and clipping from the underclings was key for me.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Inner Gorilla (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: When we got to this line the only chalk was way left of the arete on large holds (impossible to lead while using these holds) and the chalk from the left hand holds on "Portrait in Flesh" After looking thru the pictures I realize that I climbed this route much more on the arete and left of the arete than the FA. I used pinches and underclings on the arete for the right hand, and crimps and sidepulls left of the arete for the left hand. Grade felt about 12d, however the falls felt like they co... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Love Your Enemies (5.12a/b)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Kch16, New River Wall and the trail to it are both open. Just be sure to stay in the US Route 6 corridor as you approach. With a close look at the sign, you can see the corridor that is still open.
From JeffCo website jeffco.us/open-space/news/2016... "another area of Clear Creek Canyon Park, near Tunnel 2, is closed to all public use uphill of the U.S. Route 6 corridor from February 1 through July 31 to protect an active golden eagle nest... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Love Your Inclinations (5.12b/c)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: This route is pretty fun and well worth doing as a second warm-up or a cool down at the end of the day. The boulder problem over the triangle roof is quite good. To help with rope drag, skip the clip after the triangle roof boulder problem. The fall will be long but quite clean.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Winslow Areas : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Total Lack of Jump (5.12a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: While I agree that this climb is totally worth doing and is comparable to many other climbs on Main Wall, there is no way it is anywhere close to four stars. I can only think of one heavily manufactured (but barely noticeable) sport climb in the US that I would give four stars to. This thing is so blatantly and heavily manufactured that although the climbing is fun it is only one star from me. That is why Jack's canyon classics like Haul of Flame and Unpopular Mechanics only get two stars fro... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Midget Proof Direct (5.12d)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: After talking with some others who had gotten on this route, it might deserve an upgrade and the crux might be V7.


Location: New Mexico : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : Unknown (5.10a)
By: Shirtless Mike When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Hey Rich, I don't think so, looking at your photo of "Mega Man" it looks like "Mega Man" starts left of where this route is. It does look like this route could easily be linked into "Mega Man". If you're down there again soon, check for sure and I'll update if necessary. Thanks!


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