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Member Since: Jul 26, 2010
Last Visit: Feb 13, 2018
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Point Rank: # 3,681
Total Points: 198

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has DesertRat been climbing?










Contributions


All 317 | Routes 8 | Areas 4 | Approach Trails | Photos 11 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 23 | Posts 224 | Stars 29 | Ratings 17

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Gibraltar Rock Area > ... > Sedona's Scenic Cruise (5.9)
By: DesertRat When: Jan 29, 2018

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Comments: The #4 Dragon, as well as a .75 C4 and another TCU? were all still fixed as of Saturday (1/27/18). The #4 will almost certainly come out, it was wiggling in there quite a bit.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Falls Area > Five Open Books > ... > Selaginella (5.8)
By: DesertRat When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: The crux for me was P1 (Right Variation), it wasn't so much difficult, but extremely awkward. Carrying the pack for a group of three made the offwidth slightly less fun.

P2, felt easier than the 5.7 rating that was in the topo.

P3 felt right on (5.8) for the crux move, but again it was really just one awkward move, then the rest was cruiser. We made the mistake of continuing up the 5.7 crack to a different belay ledge. Did an easy traverse to get back on the route at the tree about 15 ft... more >>


Location: Montana > Gallatin Canyon > East Side > Fish Face > Fire Escape (5.9-)
By: DesertRat When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Good, easy and quick walk-off to climber's left of top out. Wide crack at the tops was full of sand, but the climb was very worth the trouble.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Williams Area > Bill Williams Mountain > Finger Rock aka Bill Willia...
By: DesertRat When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: As of 6/27/15 Tat on top is in decent shape. My 60m perfectly reaches the notch on the north side of the spire.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Whiskey Peak
By: DesertRat When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: Register at the top of Whisky Peak is full, as of 2/21/15. If you are heading up Frogland or any others, please bring a new notebook.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Eagletail Mountains > Courthouse Rock > Standard Route (5.5)
By: DesertRat When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: Looks like someone added rap anchors. Route is set to rap with double 60 meter ropes. From the look of the dust around the hangers, these were just added.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Crags > Mt. Elden Crags > Elysian Buttress > Mechanical Persistence (5.11a/b)
By: DesertRat When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Outstanding route! I was expecting the first pitch to be loose, but it was solid and super fun. The entire climb is very well protected.

Fingertips were very tender by the last pitch, which wasn't the gimme I thought it might be.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > The Old Woman > The Old Woman - West Face > Sexy Grandma (5.9)
By: DesertRat When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Between bolts and and fixed pins, no pro is really needed. The crux seems to be getting out of the crack and onto the arete. Fun route!


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > The Old Woman > The Old Woman - West Face > Double Cross (5.7+)
By: DesertRat When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: In my opinion this climb is not run out. If you take the 'easier' start slightly to the right, there is what looks like a good #2 placement. Even the direct start allows placement of gear if you need it.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > The Blob > The Blob - Southeast Face > Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: DesertRat When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I agree that the crux is between bolts 3 & 4, or at least it was for me. It is also cruxy between 2 & 3 and a little heady above the last bolt as you make the last few moves to easier terrain.

I used a #1, #2 & #3 for an anchor at the top.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > The Jungle Wall > Aqualung (5.10)
By: DesertRat When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Save at least a #2, #3 or both for last 25ft.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Crags > Oak Creek Canyon Overlook > Left Trinity Crack (5.10-)
By: DesertRat When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: I used triples in .5 & .75 and doubles in .4 and #1 and a single #3. I sewed it up pretty well with that rack. That covered me for the climb and the belay.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Crags > Oak Creek Canyon Overlook > Right Trinity Crack (5.10b/c)
By: DesertRat When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: I found this one to be the hardest out of the three. The move out of the pocket to the nice side cling was definitely the crux for me.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > West Sedona > Coffeepot Rock Area > ... > Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: DesertRat When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 1 was good, with good hands the whole way, but awkward feet for the crux move. Bolted Anchor.

Pitch 2 was way harder for me than it should have been. I would say that if you aren't solid on hand cracks, it's going to feel harder than 5.9. Doubles of .5"-3" will definitely make you feel better about it and it takes gear really nicely the whole way. Bolted Anchor.

Pitch 3 A couple of well protected traverse moves and then up some 4th class. Gear anchor.

Pitch 4 Fun 5.easy moves to a lip... more >>


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Mormon Canyon > Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: DesertRat When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: We didn't look too hard, but there didn't appear to be a summit register as of 1/18/14.

Approach: Take drainage that is 100 yards from apparent end of main drainage (main drainage walls off). Follow cairns. There weren't as many cairns marking the turn as seen in previous pic.

Pitch1: 5.easy on choss. The one 5.6-5.7 move seemed to be less chossy, with solid holds available. There was an intermediate belay/bail about half way up the pitch, with some fresh 7mm with a quicklink. We belayed on t... more >>


Location: Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals > Chain Reaction (5.12c)
By: DesertRat When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Great video featuring a few of the above commenters. Chain Reaction is featured toward the end.
watch.opb.org/video/2365124505...


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Royal Arches > Royal Arches (5.10a) > Photo
By: DesertRat When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Looks like the 8th belay is in the wrong place, from the route I have always taken. Should be the tree left and just up from where it is.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > Photo
By: DesertRat When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Great Photo!

Prey Eats Predator...


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > San Ysidro
By: DesertRat When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: From the trail head, if you take the dirt trail and do not walk on the asphault except where you have to, then there are two gates. To get the the climbing area turn left about 100ft before the second gate. This is past the first gate on the dirt road and it is past where the sign says "Trail" and points left.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > San Ysidro > Applied Magnetics (5.8 PG13)
By: DesertRat When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Great Route! I really enjoyed this climb. Considering this is sandstone, it sure climbed like granite. Crack down low was super good, and plenty of room to sew it up. Crack starts to peter out a bit higher, but still good pro. Last 20 ft section to the bolt is low angle slab (5.4ish). It is a bit run out, but super easy climbing. Three bolt anchor is in good condition as of mid-October '13.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Grand Canyon > Mount Hayden > South Face (5.8)
By: DesertRat When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: The summit register is full. If you are planning on making the trip, please bring a new one!

The static line on the approach is still intact and in good condition, although it wouldn't be a brutal down scramble even if it weren't.

The webbing on the last rap anchor (3rd) is in need of replacement. I'd say bring 20 ft, that way the boulder can be wrapped more than once. We left a single 7mm cord running to one of the bolts in the area as a backup to the webbing.

Mark's beta for the a... more >>


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Lake Havasu > Crab Claw
By: DesertRat When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: This area was pioneered by Tim O'Connor and the Leaping Lizard Tribe, along with many other climbing in the area in the 70's - 2000's.

Don't forget to sign the summit register if you summit.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > **Phoenix Areas > Camelback Mountain > The Headwall > Rain of Terror (5.8)
By: DesertRat When: Sep 21, 2011

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Comments: Bolts at the belay are loose, wouldn't trust them to rap off or top rope.


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