Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Sep 27, 2011
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact derekpearson

Point Rank: # 1,208
Total Points: 663
Last Year: 194
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has derekpearson been climbing?










Contributions


All 315 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 98 | Page Improvements | Comments 71 | Posts 1 | Stars 111 | Ratings 24
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Law and Order (5.10a)
By: derekpearson When: Aug 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Geoff, the bolt I was referring to was the existing one. It's on the rib and protects the flare section. It is a original bolt. I managed to replace the other bolt that protects the move , moving from the lay back crack to the start of the flare. I reused the same hole for that bolt, it came out real easy. the upper one for the flare felt solid and wouldn't pull out so I left it, but it would be nice if it was stainless.

On the anchor, I was thinking ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : An Act of Strange Boar (5.11a)
By: derekpearson When: Aug 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I can't remember if I removed the hangers or not but I placed it there because the gang and me thought it was a good spot to start from. Its not needed though. I think I drilled the holes deep enough to push the bolts in and hide them or cover the holes.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Law and Order (5.10a)
By: derekpearson When: Aug 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Zacks , I can replace that bolt. I want to be sure to reuse the same hole. I also could manage a intermediate anchor. I have a plan to clean up Anarchy and Chaos and a intermediate anchor would be ideal for that.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yup thats right Jon. This is actually a really fun pitch.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Hell Bent for Glory (5.11)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The traverse pitch is 10b/c and the last pitch is easier 10a

The .75 min is around 1" , pretty close and the 3 is 2" to 3.46" the 4 is 2.6 to 4.5

Small cam or nut
3
.75 two in a row
2
4 at the end of the arch
2
1
3

Thats what the sequance of gear that remember. Thats sewing it up .
The small cams are for the traverse pitch. I didnt use anything bigger then a .75 .
I remember a 00 was nice to have.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Hell Bent for Glory (5.11)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I added a topo to help with some route info. Since you posted this Jon a little bit has changed with this route. The original Clint Cummins guide info was a little off as well. The point of aid was at a tree on the second pitch(now gone) and possibly on the traverse pitch since that was how I had to do it when I lead the first time. The crack was filled with dirt and moss. It is now a sweet pitch. After cleaning the corner , traverse and last pitch I solo tope roped it and it was amazing! The co... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It really is true , if this pitch was on the LTW it would be very popular.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This topo shows the break down of the pitches.

There used to be a tree on pitch two that was used to get to the ledge as a point of aid. It rotted and fell and was hung up on the ledges and has fallen the rest of the way to the ground. So, there is potential for 5.11ish moves to go straight up the face witch are really cool it will take only 2 or 3 bolts. there is another variation that may be easier to the right side of that ledge that will take gear maybe and a bolt.

On p4 or p5 (traverse ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This sucked to follow. The pitch was still really dirty and he had to do the crux with a possible big pendulum. Brian cruised it though.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: There is potential for HBFG p2 to stay but it will be really hard but I have a feeling will be the more popular way. By breaking it up there is a easier variation that goes wide right so it would be hard to link and prevent rope drag. I want to establish both ways.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jon , yes I have climbed bits of the face plumb line to HBFL. I would like to give you a tour. Climb dike fight to HBFG. Then top rope a project pitch to figure bolt placements.

The first pitch to HBFG is a decent 5.7 crack. The second is still very dirty, I climbed it and it felt 5.9 and its a short pitch. There used to be a tree at this point that was used to get to the ledge. It's has fallen due to rotting and wind. So now this breaks up p2 into two pitches. Just a littl... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yes I agree, I would like to one day make a traverse pitch from the top of Lookout Directs p1. I have a chain anchor in place, I just need to climb it. I think it will be easy.

I wonder also if someone has climbed it.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Dog Fight AKA Dike Fight (5.11d)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for catching that Jon. Its closer to 12. I think it is 9 bolts then two for the anchor and one draw for the cam placement. As soon as one pulls onto the ledge the Hell Bent anchor is like 8 to 10 feet staight ahead. Per scrubed this pitch hanging off the hell bent anchor. Its directly plumb line nearly.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is so cool thanks for sharing Jon!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bobcat Cringe (5.12b)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jon, yeah I will be back by Christmas hopefully. Its possible I return in January. I will be very motivated when I return.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Bob and Doris (5.10+)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I know now a days we call Tatoosh the awesome pitch that forks left before the OW section. I think the OW section is called Free at Last now.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: You can access Bob and Doris from Let's Barbecue via a short scramble.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : You can cool Jackie Robinso... (5.12+)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: FA September 12 2012


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bobcat Cringe (5.12b)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jon, thats right you did get all the moves on "Jackie R" Lets go for the send when I get back. Fa was you. Actually that's right Jon the cleaners/senders do name the projects/routes. Lets talk about the name though ;) lol . Just joking. I want to try this when I return. I hope it will be a dry early season.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bobcat Cringe (5.12b)
By: derekpearson When: Jul 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: JCM < Yeah its been climbed. Michal Rynkiewicz talked to about getting all the moves now he just needs to go for the send , its difficult to place pro and its very thin. Its a great climb though. I cleaned this route and placed the bolts in 2012. I think its harder then Bobcat Cringe. Jon and I had a name for this but we never sent it so whoever sends gets to name it , it will be a very impressive send.

When one climbs in from Solitude its a little easier. The name of this way is... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : The Brett Thompson and Scot... (5.10)
By: derekpearson When: May 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nice work, I'm so impressed with all the new routing you guys are doing together as a team. So stoked !


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : And Say (5.11b)
By: derekpearson When: Mar 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I wanted to fix that before I left but wasn't able to manage the time. Whoever does it I will buy all the beer and food to celebrate the fix when I return in a year. Pitch 3 could use a bolt as well for the finishing traverse moves.

I can't wait to get back and finish it. Pitch four is an open project that I bolted. To the right of p4 I started cleaning something easier.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks
By: derekpearson When: Feb 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I'm looking for a ride to hueco tanks March 23rd through March 25.
I have reserved camping and a day pass for each day. I'm at FT Bliss for training and the army will not allow me to rent a car during my four day pass. I'll pay for gas and the camping.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson When: Dec 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Oh I have plans for the dihedral ;) purist plans. I hope for it to be the most striking gear lead at Index.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Sweets for Manuel (5.10b/c)
By: derekpearson When: Dec 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It still has tat around a tree.


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>