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Member Since: Sep 27, 2011
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact derekpearson Pearson

Point Rank: # 1,137
Total Points: 625

16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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derekpearson Pearson

 
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Contributions


All 331 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 105 | Page Improvements | Comments 78 | Posts 1 | Stars 113 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 19, 2017

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Comments: rad!


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 19, 2017

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Comments: rad!


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Hell Bent for Glory (5.10d)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: Josh! Thanks for your description of the route. So cool.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: Yes lets delete this one. A new topo is in the works .


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: This topo is incorrect , the red 5.10 i penciled in is not 5.10 and i did not bolt it. The 5.11 with a few bolts is the best way to get to the big hell bent ledge. Climb the corner and bolted section as one pitch. This way is way better only 2 pitches to hell bent ledge instead od 3 pitches like i thought it would be.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Under the roof is the best rest. There are other shake outs but its pretty pumpy. The jams are really good.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Hell Bent for Glory (5.10d)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: P1 follows the easy crack
P2 can be sabbra caddabra or climb the corner to the ledge then follow the bolts at 11- move belay to the base of the corner


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Great Northern Slab (5.7)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jan 4, 2017

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Comments: Sandy Corner route # 85 in the clint guide


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Law and Order (5.10a)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Hi Geoff, the bolt I was referring to was the existing one. It's on the rib and protects the flare section. It is a original bolt. I managed to replace the other bolt that protects the move , moving from the lay back crack to the start of the flare. I reused the same hole for that bolt, it came out real easy. the upper one for the flare felt solid and wouldn't pull out so I left it, but it would be nice if it was stainless.

On the anchor, I was thinking ... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : An Act of Strange Boar (5.11a)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: I can't remember if I removed the hangers or not but I placed it there because the gang and me thought it was a good spot to start from. Its not needed though. I think I drilled the holes deep enough to push the bolts in and hide them or cover the holes.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Law and Order (5.10a)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Hey Zacks , I can replace that bolt. I want to be sure to reuse the same hole. I also could manage a intermediate anchor. I have a plan to clean up Anarchy and Chaos and a intermediate anchor would be ideal for that.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Yup thats right Jon. This is actually a really fun pitch.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Hell Bent for Glory (5.10d)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: The traverse pitch is 10b/c and the last pitch is easier 10a

The .75 min is around 1" , pretty close and the 3 is 2" to 3.46" the 4 is 2.6 to 4.5

Small cam or nut
3
.75 two in a row
2
4 at the end of the arch
2
1
3

Thats what the sequance of gear that remember. Thats sewing it up .
The small cams are for the traverse pitch. I didnt use anything bigger then a .75 .
I remember a 00 was nice to have.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Hell Bent for Glory (5.10d)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: I added a topo to help with some route info. Since you posted this Jon a little bit has changed with this route. The original Clint Cummins guide info was a little off as well. The point of aid was at a tree on the second pitch(now gone) and possibly on the traverse pitch since that was how I had to do it when I lead the first time. The crack was filled with dirt and moss. It is now a sweet pitch. After cleaning the corner , traverse and last pitch I solo tope roped it and it was amazing! The co... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: It really is true , if this pitch was on the LTW it would be very popular.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: This topo shows the break down of the pitches.

There used to be a tree on pitch two that was used to get to the ledge as a point of aid. It rotted and fell and was hung up on the ledges and has fallen the rest of the way to the ground. So, there is potential for 5.11ish moves to go straight up the face witch are really cool it will take only 2 or 3 bolts. there is another variation that may be easier to the right side of that ledge that will take gear maybe and a bolt.

On p4 or p5 (traverse ... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: This sucked to follow. The pitch was still really dirty and he had to do the crux with a possible big pendulum. Brian cruised it though.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: There is potential for HBFG p2 to stay but it will be really hard but I have a feeling will be the more popular way. By breaking it up there is a easier variation that goes wide right so it would be hard to link and prevent rope drag. I want to establish both ways.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Jon , yes I have climbed bits of the face plumb line to HBFL. I would like to give you a tour. Climb dike fight to HBFG. Then top rope a project pitch to figure bolt placements.

The first pitch to HBFG is a decent 5.7 crack. The second is still very dirty, I climbed it and it felt 5.9 and its a short pitch. There used to be a tree at this point that was used to get to the ledge. It's has fallen due to rotting and wind. So now this breaks up p2 into two pitches. Just a littl... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Yes I agree, I would like to one day make a traverse pitch from the top of Lookout Directs p1. I have a chain anchor in place, I just need to climb it. I think it will be easy.

I wonder also if someone has climbed it.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Dog Fight AKA Dike Fight (5.11d)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for catching that Jon. Its closer to 12. I think it is 9 bolts then two for the anchor and one draw for the cam placement. As soon as one pulls onto the ledge the Hell Bent anchor is like 8 to 10 feet staight ahead. Per scrubed this pitch hanging off the hell bent anchor. Its directly plumb line nearly.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: This is so cool thanks for sharing Jon!


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bobcat Cringe (5.12b)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Jon, yeah I will be back by Christmas hopefully. Its possible I return in January. I will be very motivated when I return.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Bob and Doris (5.10+)
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: I know now a days we call Tatoosh the awesome pitch that forks left before the OW section. I think the OW section is called Free at Last now.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Photo
By: derekpearson Pearson When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: You can access Bob and Doris from Let's Barbecue via a short scramble.


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