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Rock Climbing Photo: Making the reachy move to get established on the r...


Member Since: Jan 21, 2011
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
Contact Demyanek

Point Rank: # 1,324
Total Points: 600
Last Year: 174
Last 30 Days: 6
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Demyanek been climbing?










Contributions


All 378 | Routes 21 | Areas 5 | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 40 | Posts 3 | Stars 194 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Crack of Dawn (5.10b)
By: Demyanek When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: The line is beautifully obvious until the last bolt. It appears from the chalk that many people have trended to the right, ending on a jug about 4 feet to the right and slightly above the anchors. This makes clipping the chains incredibly awkward and is not the correct line. The route actually bends slightly left of vertical at the top and climbs, more or less, directly to the chains. The holds and movement are better this way, if a bit less obvious.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Narrows Blocs : ... : Orange-Faced Devil (V6)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Nice work! This thing looked beautiful!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Narrows Blocs : ... : Parable (V1)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments:



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Route Canal (5.8+)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Very fun and relaxed route! It went really easily on just a single set of nuts. I think I used 4 of them in total.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Circus Wall : Circus in the Wind (5.11-)
By: Demyanek When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Maybe my favorite route at Ten Sleep so far. Really fun, juggy, pumpy climbing. Crux at the bitter end.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Oblivion Roof : Killer Karma (5.11d)
By: Demyanek When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Please somebody do a service to humanity and leave some draws hanging on this route. Cleaning the roof is a nightmare.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Aretnophobia (5.11a/b)
By: Demyanek When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: What a fantastic route! Wish there was more of it. I highly recommend starting the route directly on the arete instead of to the left. This adds 3 or so bouldery moves. If you want beta on the roof, read the next sentence. In the overhang, stay to the left and make moves to get your left hand on the point of the large triangle-shaped feature. From there, make a long reach with your right to the lip of the overhang. From that position, you can pretty easily crank through it. Good luck!


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Black Top Boulder : Block Party (V5)
By: Demyanek When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Nice and straightforward if you figure out where to put your right foot. A nice break from the many puzzling sequences you come up against in Big Bend.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Black Top Boulder : Brown Power (V4)
By: Demyanek When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: What a fun problem! Just tricky enough to be interesting. The crux is figuring out how to hold that jumble of sloped dishes before you go to the top. (Pinch it)


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Loyalist (5.9)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Not quite as long, or as good as Cheerleaders Gone Hippie, but certainly worth taking a lap on! Some good movement on solid rock.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : River Rats (5.7)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Most mellow route at The Palace. I can't count how many people I have belayed on this route for their first outdoor lead. Nice on ramp for beginners.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Turtle Head (5.7+)
By: Demyanek When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: I'll voice my agreement about the grade. I personally think that River Rats climbs like a 5.6 (except for one 5.8ish move), Turtle Head seems more like a 5.9-, and Orange You Glad seems like 5.8-.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Cable Route (5.4)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Soloing Cable Route vs. bringing rope and rack:

In good conditions (no water, ice, or snow), there is no reason that a climber comfortable with leading 5.9 cannot solo this route without gear. There are only about 15 feet that could be considered 5th class climbing, and it's right at the beginning. After that, you have roughly 70 feet of slab reminiscent of the final approach on the Keyhole Route (just a bit steeper) before the scramble to the top begins.

In my personal opinion, hauling up a r... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge : Photo
By: Demyanek When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: There's another great warm-up route to the right of Purdy Dirty on the face.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Marina Ridge aka Sunshine B... : Muscle Cling (V5)
By: Demyanek When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments:



Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : The Wash Boulder : Photo
By: Demyanek When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Yellow line is the No Name V2 and Green line is Washed Up V4


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Goldeneye (5.11c/d)
By: Demyanek When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: I got on this yesterday, and it definitely was trickier than I expected. Sharp, small holds and a bit cryptic. I was straight up stumped at the third bolt - I couldn't find any holds to pull myself up to the slab on. I am about 5'10".


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face : Check Your Six (5.11b)
By: Demyanek When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Probably the best climb on the main (south) face at the Palace. Thoughtful and interesting climbing, lock-off moves on crimps for the crux around the 4th bolt.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : Duke's Wall : The General Lee (5.12a/b)
By: Demyanek When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Three stars for sure. Shorter than the routes at upper echelon, but super sustained. I'd say that it is solid 5.12b - harder than ODK and maybe tougher than Tailspin. A couple bits of loose rock, but pretty clean overall. Basically 30 feet of thoughtful stemming to a large ledge - then straight into 50 feet of pumpy, overhanging climbing on sloped pinches and blocky 2 or 3 finger pockets. Classic.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Sunday School (5.10d)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: I hate making negative comments - but here goes. The climbing isn't fun, the stretch to the anchors is runout and awkward, and cleaning this sucker is a royal pain. Not worth it. Climb the 11- to the right for much better quality.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Tom Thumb (5.8+)
By: Demyanek When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: You can do this one as a sport climb by clipping the first 6 bolts on Broken Arrow and then running it out on easy terrain to the anchors.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Armor Plated (5.11b/c)
By: Demyanek When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: DO THE DYNO. That is all. You are only cheating yourself....


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Silver Girl (5.10c)
By: Demyanek When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: The route breaks down like this: first third - 5.6 staircase, second third - fun 5.9ish moves, last third - 5.10c crux section on crystals. Will feel tricky if you're gunning for the onsight. Not nearly as consistent as its neighbor to the left.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Fully Equipped (5.9+)
By: Demyanek When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Dude, don't listen to that rant of a description. I found this route to be fun and unique, with stemming, chimneying and crack climbing all coming into play. I concede that the bolt placement is awkward. Line would probably be better with trad protection. Still, I would suggest this one - don't be off put by the description.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave : Solstice (5.12a) : Photo
By: Demyanek When: Mar 15, 2013

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Comments: In fact, the camera makes it look less steep than it actually is. The section of the climb at the top of the photo is actually so steep that you are climbing back towards the ground at that point.


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