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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 15 mins ago
Contact david goldstein

Point Rank: # 273
Total Points: 2,533

59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has david goldstein been climbing?


All 973 | Routes 161 | Areas 30 | Approach Trails | Photos 94 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 226 | Posts 39 | Stars 392 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Bihedral Area > The Riviera > New Lease on Life (5.9+)
By: david goldstein When: Nov 13, 2017

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Comments: Squeeze job.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Mickey Mouse Wall > Captain Beyond (5.10+)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 17, 2017

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Comments: With ascents in 1989, 2003, and 2017, I've been climbing this route at 14 year intervals. Here's the tetradecennial report:

If this climb were in Eldo proper, it would be considered the Naked Edge of 5.10 and be highly coveted. Pitches 1 and 5 are just great. P4, the fist crack, is great too, but more in a memorable than an enjoyable way. According to my 2003 report, pitch 2 is also very good, but I don't remember, and I didn't do it on my recent ascent. Instead, I overshot the ... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Mickey Mouse Wall
By: david goldstein When: Oct 17, 2017

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Comments: Some train/tunnel beta from an October weekday:

We saw an Amtrak train around 9am. From that time until around 530-6pm, we saw one other train. Sometime between 530-6pm, as we were descending from the crag down to the tracks, a southbound coal train appeared out of tunnel six and cleared the tunnel maybe three minutes before we started walking the tracks, northbound into tunnel six. We figured there would not be another train for the foreseeable future, so we walked the tunnel with less trepida... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Achean Pronouncement > East Face/Achean Pronouncem... (5.7)
By: david goldstein When: Sep 13, 2017

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Comments: We ended up on a fun and wild variation to the last pitch. Instead of going up the 5.7 crux, diagonal easily up and west/left for about 30 feet to reach the west face of the summit block. You'll probably want to belay here. Traverse north on a ledge system about 15' using giant chickenheads (4th Class with one move of 5th) until the ledge ends at the west end of the north face. Place some #1 Camalot-size pro then monkey up into an alcove/slot using licheny jugs and minimal feet. (This mo... more >>

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Creek Side > Unknown Big Black Flake (5.10+)
By: david goldstein When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: IMO, most leaders will want to place at least one piece at the roof and at least one more to protect the 20' runout after the roof. Also, some/most people would probably be happy to have tape on their right hand at the crux.

Location: Utah > Moab Area > River Road > Big Bend Butte > Grim Reaper (5.10a)
By: david goldstein When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: The climbing is better than Cam Burns remembers it but still isn't great. One star for the climbing and another for being the easiest route to the top of a ranked summit.

The pins on P1 seem pretty solid and can be backed up. The climbing is about 5.8 except for one move which is at most 10a.

We found tricams and nuts to be useful.

The summit of Big Bend Butte is on the north end.

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Castle Valley > Parriot Mesa > Super Natural (5.10)
By: david goldstein When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: One of the best easier tower routes. Four-star tower climbing but loses a star for some talus fields.

Note: the true summit of Parriot is on the south end, more than a mile from where this route ends.

We did the 5.8 start and managed to stretch it all the way to the start of pitch two, saving the belay relocation. Both the leader and follower were glad they weren't wearing a pack on this one.
We broke the 2nd pitch in two, belaying on a decent ledge about 50' into the pitch.
The 3rd ... more >>

Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > Window Blind Peak Area > Window Blind Peak - North R... (5.7)
By: david goldstein When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: Pitch two is somewhat run out and would likely be a harrowing experience for someone leading at his/her limit and/or unaccustomed to soft rock. That said, the rock is mostly pretty good by the standards of the genre.

With a 60 meter rope, one can just reach the fixed anchors at the end of pitch two and thus skip the intermediate anchor in the chimney.

Once on the wide ledge, at the end of the short pitch three, traverse right/WEST where five minutes of easy scrambling (mostly class two) leads ... more >>

Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > Assembly Hall Peak > Heavy Metal (5.10 C0)
By: david goldstein When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: I think a more appropriate rating for this climb would be something like 5.8+ R.

There are a few options for the first pitch. We chose the rightmost, a left facing corner with double cracks which seemed about 5.8. It is about 30' right/west of another left facing corner. The left of the two corners leads directly to the 1st set of anchors.

Pitch two, the bolted pitch is definitely the business and possibly the technical crux. (I find it hard to accurately rate chossy rock.) Contrary to all... more >>

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... > The Putterman Residence > Original Route (5.9+)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Dougald basically onsighted the first pitch. The climbing seemed far harder than 9+ but the rest of us will never know because some of the holds he used, including an essential one, were no longer present when his lead was followed.

Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > Curecanti National Recreati... > Curecanti Needle > Northwest Rib (5.9)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: Very classic in the genre.

We approached from Pioneer Point. The excellent trail (a recommended outing in itself) takes you all the way to the water.

Previous posts and associated photos left me wondering what landing the boat on the Needle side would be like. Turns out the landing is at the bottom of the scree gully and no problem at all. We managed to stay feet dry coming and going on both sides.

Even though the Curecanti Creek trail and the boat crossing were very enjoyable and added to th... more >>

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Red Arch Mountain > Wigs in Space (5.11) > Photo
By: david goldstein When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: Busted

Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Eagletail Mountains > Courthouse Rock > Standard Route (5.5)
By: david goldstein When: Jan 20, 2016

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Comments: We found this route very enjoyable and found the rock quality to be generally pretty good.

The summit is a long, unobvious way from the end of the primary roped climbing. We found solid, detailed beta on the route here:

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Tusher Canyon > Monitor and Merrimac Buttes > Hollis Route (5.10+ A1 PG13)
By: david goldstein When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: In case you're wondering, the post-roof crux is about 30' of OW from #4 to #6 Camalot width, part of which seems overhanging.

Unless the leader back cleaned most of the gear in and below the roof, it would be hard to do this in one pitch due to rope drag and the rope running over/through the pieces in the roof.

The rap anchors are about 31 meters off the deck i.e. rapping with a single 60 might or might not work depending on how long your 60 meter rope is.

The summit is at the opposite end of... more >>

Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - South > Turkey Tower > The Turkey's Crevasse (5.9+ PG13)
By: david goldstein When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: This route almost has it all: Great camping, a fine V-sign tower, 10 minute approach, terrific summit views and a relatively stress free rappel; alas, the route itself sandwiches two good pitches around an unpalatable choss filling.

The P1 fixed anchors are hard if not impossible to see from the ground. There are visible anchors much higher up on the South Face route which can cause confusion when trying to ID Turkey's Crevasse from the ground.

Doing the climb in three pitches seems li... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > East Blob > ... > Nighthawk (5.10a)
By: david goldstein When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: Much better than it looks, more thoughtful than thuggish. I would have like to have more than one #3 C4, and a second #4 wouldn't have been bad either.

The start is probably the technical crux and would be a pain to lead due to rope drag and putting the belayer in an unfavorable position. I scrambled up a few feet to the right, eventually merging with the line where I put in a couple of pieces. I then descended to the bottom, TR'd the start, and lead on.

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Lost World Butte Area > Lost World Butte > Pearly Gates (5.5 C1)
By: david goldstein When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Very worth doing, consider making it a two pack with Tombstone.

That said, OP's rack recommendation is loony.
A #4 Camalot would protect the first crux, otherwise there is no pro
A medium nut can be placed after the first crux, at the start of the traverse, to protect the 2nd
A #6 Camalot might protect the second crux, otherwise there is no pro.
A .5 Camalot provides a decent anchor piece at the 2nd belay to supplement the detached block that people seem to sling as the primary/only anchor.
A #... more >>

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Staunton State Park
By: david goldstein When: Jan 16, 2013

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Comments: Staunton State Park is not open to the public yet and prominently signed to that effect. It would be hard to sneak in as there are work crews and no neighborhood parking.

The current estimate for when the park will open is "May or June".

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > The Happy Submarine > The Undiscovered Country (5.11)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: An excellent adventure climb to a rarely climbed ranked summit. Ours was probably the 2nd ascent of the formation.

Firming up the description:

The wall faces west.

P1: Start with a 30' low angle, shallow, right facing corner which takes small gear. Continue up chimney/slot and easy ground to a bolted anchor. ~50 5.9.

P2: The "short wide" section is actually about 100' of vertical #4 Camalots in a a somewhat sandy corner. The "long, low-angle crack" is about 50' long. Where the corner turn... more >>

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Cat Wall > Curiosity (5.11) > Photo
By: david goldstein When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Wonder how the no shirt program worked out for him when he hit the chimney.

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Buffalo Creek > The Castle > Southeast Gully (5.4) > Photo
By: david goldstein When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: The SE gully may be clearly visible in this photo, but that doesn't make it obvious, nor does the fact that it's on the west side of the south face. In this photo, the SE gully is not the obvious, long, tree-studded weakness on the right but the foreshortened line of trees heading to a pronounced notch on the left side of the visible formation.

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > Radio Head > The Bends (5.11b)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 11, 2010

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Comments: What Dougald said: great climb.

I'm not too dialed into the rating system these days, but pitch 1 seemed very soft for 11c. The crux entailed crystally tips jamming of the sort sometimes found at Lumpy Ridge. There are some similarities between the crux of P1 and Lumpy's Dead Boys Direct which is rated 11+ and is vastly harder than The Bends.

Location: Australia > Mount Arapiles > (7) Watchtower Faces > The Watchtower Faces > Watchtower Crack (5.8+)
By: david goldstein When: May 21, 2009

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Comments: While I disagree with RK's assertion about WC's rating, SS's comment is complete nonsense. I've never heard anyone else call WC less than Australian 16 (~YDS 5.8+), nor have I ever heard anyone say it was easy at that grade. Furthermore, if memory serves, I've done it in two pitches with a single 50M rope and anyone for whom the grade is a remote challenge would feel grossly underprotected relying on only fixed gear -- I don't think the first pitch has any while the crux remainder has perhaps... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Elephant Buttresses > Third Buttress > Left Wing (5.10c)
By: david goldstein When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: I'm pretty sure the bolt has been there for at least 20 years.

Location: New York > Adirondacks > B: Chapel Pond Pass > The Spider's Web > Dacker Cracker (5.10c)
By: david goldstein When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: This route whose crux is close to the ground and strenuous to protect, is significantly harder than TR which is a better introduction to the crag.

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