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Member Since: Feb 22, 2005
Last Visit: Oct 2, 2017
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Point Rank: # 9,286
Total Points: 50

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 64 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts 15 | Stars 10 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Well Hung

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (4)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

Colorado > Shelf Road > ... > Far Side

Nov 5, 2016

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Kat at bolt #5, starting the technical crux sequen...

Kat at bolt #5, starting the technical crux sequence.

Colorado > Shelf Road > ... > Well Hung (5.11d)

Oct 2, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Kat at bolt #4.

Kat at bolt #4.

Colorado > Shelf Road > ... > Well Hung (5.11d)

Oct 2, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Kat contemplating the strenuous move off bolt #3 t...

Kat contemplating the strenuous move off bolt #3 to the huge, right-pointing flake-rest.

Colorado > Shelf Road > ... > Well Hung (5.11d)

Oct 2, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Kat trying to find a stance from which to clip bol...

Kat trying to find a stance from which to clip bolt #3.

Colorado > Shelf Road > ... > Well Hung (5.11d)

Oct 2, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Kat at the start of Well Hung.

Kat at the start of Well Hung.

Colorado > Shelf Road > ... > Well Hung (5.11d)

Oct 2, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Well Hung.

Well Hung.

Colorado > Shelf Road > ... > Well Hung (5.11d)

Oct 2, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Dave leads Five-Ten Crack on a c-c-cold morning in...

Dave leads Five-Ten Crack on a c-c-cold morning in Eldo.

Colorado > Eldorado Canyon SP > ... > Five-Ten Crack (5.10a)

Jun 3, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Relaxing on the summit of the Petit Grepon on a sp...

Relaxing on the summit of the Petit Grepon on a spectacular July day.

The People of Mountain Proj... > David Champion > Climbing pix (what else?)

Nov 10, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > High Sierra > 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... > Mt. Russell > Fishhook Arête (5.9)
By: David Champion When: Aug 13, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Not much here or in the guidebooks about the 5.10 variation of pitch 6; the alternative to the 5.8 chimney indicated in the High Sierra SuperTopo guide. Having just done it I thought I’d share some beta here (on-sight purists feel free to move on).

First, here is the gear I placed, in order (note this is the I gear placed just in the 5.10 section, not the entire pitch):

#.4 Camalot
#10 (Gray) DMM offset nut
#.5 Camalot
#2 Camalot
#1 Camalot (at the top of the incipient crack to left of the m... more >>


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Elephant Rock > Elephant Rock - North > Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b PG13)
By: David Champion When: Jun 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This route definitely falls into the oh-shit category, and is the quintessential test of the well-rounded trad leader.

It demands a range of skills from overhead jamming to precise footwork on tiny edges, careful and effective placement/runnering of critical pro, and a cool head pulling hard moves well above gear.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Rabbit Rock > Rabbit Rock - Southwest > Sudden Pleasure (5.11b)
By: David Champion When: Jun 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Had been wanting to do this line since rapping down it from the Redtail anchors in 2010. Sudden Pleasure is a super high-quality line, but it is of 3-star quality to Redtail's 4, IMO.

This line has maybe one or two moves as hard as (but no harder) than any single move on Redtail, but is not as continuously engaging.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Heartbreaker > Surfing the Orgasmic Wave (5.11)
By: David Champion When: Jun 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Brilliant and devious line.

With so many good roadside crags/lines at the City, the 20-minute hike to this and other nearby gems should ensure a solitary experience.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Castle Valley > Sister Superior Group > Jah Man (5.10c)
By: David Champion When: Apr 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed Jah Man on 3/26/2017. Was shocked to discover the base of the P2 chimney has widened ~3 inches since the last time I did the route on 4/6/13. Back then, the crux of the pitch was getting into the chimney--a very tight squeeze, even for me at a lean buck-forty. This year I was able to waltz right into the thing.

I shared my observation with a friend and fellow climber who is a geotechnical engineer. He gives the pillar that forms the chimney 10 years max before it calves, and thinks it c... more >>


Location: Wyoming > Devil's Tower > West Face > One Way Sunset (5.10c)
By: David Champion When: Sep 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed One Way Sunset to the summit on 9/2/2016. I had climbed the stellar lower pitches (1 and 2) many times over the years, but never ventured higher than 2 until last Friday. Comments in the Orenczak book, and on this page, that tout (or at least do not disparage) OWS as a good summit route are overstated.

By any objective measure pitches 3 and 4 are very dangerous. Anyone who says otherwise is a sandbagger. These pitches are littered with loose fist- to refrigerator-sized blocks, and muc... more >>


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Rabbit Rock > Rabbit Rock - Southwest > Redtail (5.11a)
By: David Champion When: Jun 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Tony, seems you and I were in the City at the same time. In fact we climbed Redtail on Tuesday (6/14), looks like ~2 days before you did? Hard to believe we didn’t run into you at some point during the week.

Last time I did Redtail was in 2009, almost 7 years to the day prior, and I recall being pretty darned impressed with the line. But after 7 years, and many, many routes, it seems I’d relegated that recollection to the dustbin of my memory. Getting on it again brought it all back, though... more >>


Location: Colorado > Empire > Ra > Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: David Champion When: Jun 29, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: RAPPEL BETA:

If you should have to retreat from the top of p2 (either from the anchor at 95’, or the one on the big, flat ledge 10’ feet higher), be prepared. The pitch you’ve just climbed is long and overhangs considerably.

To make it work, I re-clipped 7 or 8 bolts on rappel, and redirected the rope through the draws to keep me sucked in to the wall. If you are first to rappel and you do so without draws, you will end up in space 30+ lateral feet from your objective, a point from which it... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: David Champion When: Jul 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: CAUTION: On 6/14/14, while leading p3 (the 10c dihedral) of the Diving Board, I dislodged a substantial chockstone while using it for a hand hold. I estimate the chockstone moved from 6" to 12", but it did not come out. However, it is likely to come out if it is pulled on again. Trundling it would have been too dangerous, so it is likely still in there. Said chockstone is (or was, if it has fallen out since 6/14) near the base of the wide-ish crack at the top of the dihedral, just before exit... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall > Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: David Champion When: Jun 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: All this blather about how pitch 3, 4 and 5 are [insert hyperbolic adjective here], and not a word—not a freaking word!—about pitch 6? Even the route description couldn't be more anti-climactic about pitch 6: “More face climbing, more bolts.” Ho-f*cking-hum. As if! Did the route submitter even climb pitch 6? Did everyone else rap after 4, or 5? Holy $hit!


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > North Chasm View Wall > Journey Home (5.10a/b)
By: David Champion When: May 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There's very little to say that hasn't already been said about this route here, so I will try to confine my comments to new, and hopefully useful, information.

There is a bomb-proof placement above the overlap (not the POS right at the start, the good one up higher) on p1 that will keep you out of the river if you fall before you reach the pegmatite dihedral. It's not at all obvious, because to find it, you have to do exactly what I did, which is to false-start the left-hand variation of p1 (d... more >>


Location: Wyoming > Devil's Tower > West Face > Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: David Champion When: Sep 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Unless you lead comfortably a grade or two harder than this climb, you'd be best advised to not try to link Ps 1 and 2. After climbing it we watched two strong leaders try this, and just fail to reach the anchors. Rope weight/drag was undoubtedly a factor. The P1 belay is not uncomfortable--though not visible from the base there's an adequate ledge there.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: David Champion When: Apr 29, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Blackwalk is, bar none, the scariest pitch I have ever led. I totally agree with Bill Wright's and Joe Collins' comments, both here and on Backtalk: Blackwalk has a harder crux, and harbors the potential for a 70+ footer if you fall before reaching the anchors. Backtalk is more sustained, yes, and it is run-out, but it is what I would call "normal" scary. Blackwalk is "weird" scary. It's got a weird, greasy, awkward crux, followed by 50 feet of greasy slopers without pro. It took all I had ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Whale's Tail > Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: David Champion When: May 21, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Leo. If this route doesn't get an X rating then I don't know what does. Last I checked the definition of an X-rated climb is one on which a fall risks severe injury or death. The first 40' of JTR clearly meets that definition.

I carefully downclimbed this thing from the lower crux after having placed two VERY marginal RPs (because I was too afraid to body-weight the RP for a lower). I can't imagine where previous posters were getting in cams--I certainly don't have any that sma... more >>


Location: North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > ... > Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben ... (5.10)
By: David Champion When: Feb 21, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: As of 2/19/2008 the condition of the rappel anchor at the top of P3 is as follows: There are two 3/8" bolts, only one of which is equipped with a hanger and quick link. Its twin appears to have been pulled out from the rock about 1", is bent downward, and has no hangar.

Rappel from the two-bolt anchor (chains with a snap link) atop P2 to avoid this dangerous anchor. You can reach the ground from here with a 70m rope. The last pitch--about 30' of 5.9--are not worth it. By the top of P2 you'... more >>


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag > Jackpot (5.11c/d)
By: David Champion When: Dec 27, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I'm confused by the description and comments here re: the grade. I onsighted this thing last October, and my send limit is middle 11. I pulled the little roof--right where the less than vertical section becomes overhanging--perhaps a little right of the first bolt above this transition. Then I traversed somewhat left on reachy, hard, but fairly positive, holds. I finished the climb entirely to the left of the bolt line, reaching right to clip each of the remaining bolts.

I see no explicit d... more >>


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