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Rock Climbing Photo: Caustic C*** 5.11-


Member Since: Feb 10, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact David Bruneau

Point Rank: # 617
Total Points: 1,271
Last Year: 168
Last 30 Days: 7
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Bruneau been climbing?










Contributions


All 731 | Routes 76 | Areas 8 | Photos 69 | Page Improvements | Comments 46 | Posts 10 | Stars 402 | Ratings 120
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Sky Dive (5.11b PG13)
By: David Bruneau When: 4 days ago

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Comments: A bit of a choss pile in sections but amazing movement. Bring the RP's and ballnuts. I was pretty close to maxing out - all the 11 moves felt very well protected. There are a few headier 5.10 moves but nothing felt dangerous.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Similar to Tunnel Vision but more enjoyable. A little more loose as well but nothing dangerously so. Besides the ungradable squeeze-trauma on P1 it felt easier than 5.8 OW or Chimney. After trying twice unsuccesfully, I removed a couple layers of clothing and untied from the rope and fit through with some exhaling...

The long right hand crack on P3 is very well featured and turns into a widening chimney after 40 feet, I don't see how one could fall out after that point. Pr... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11b/c)
By: David Bruneau When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: For a lightweight day on Lev. 29 (up to the top of P9): We found that 3 cams (.4, .5 and.75 X4) plus a set of DMM offset nuts was an adequate rack. We are by no means bold climbers and nearing our limits on the crux pitches. We didn't place any gear above P4 either, though off the belay on P5 it may be nice to have a .4 or .5 cam. 16 draws seemed to work with only p6 and 7 linked (backcleaning when convenient). Also we brought a slightly shortened 70m and made the P4 rap with... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: David Bruneau When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: Given grades didn't really reflect my experience. I'd say 11a, 10b/c, 10b and desperate 10c. I think P3 was the best of the lot - Go up the left crack 10 feet and traverse high into the right crack for easier climbing and bush avoidance. P1 roof was burly for the grade - maybe a hold broke. My partner got his rope stuck at the lip and had to downclimb to get it unstuck despite extending all pieces under and after the roof. Maybe use Big Wall technique and ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Mai Tai (5.10+ R)
By: David Bruneau When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: I feel a PG13 on this. Good but often very small gear, with the hard moves coming with said gear at or below your feet. Definitely want solid thin crack protection skills. I placed a lot of ballnuts (2 red, 2 yellow, 1 blue) on this route and no rp's or micro cams, probably not absolutely necessary but they provide very solid pro at the crux and elsewhere.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R)
By: David Bruneau When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Ditto on basically everything Kevin said. Runouts on P1 and 3 but you're contending with the ground on P1. P2 may have the nicest climbing but its all amazing. P3 runouts are all quite secure, at least for someone who's 6'.

80 km/hour wind made things a little bit exciting!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson
By: David Bruneau When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Another vote for the Oak Creek descent being a great way to get down. No real exposure or danger and a lot of sliding down smooth slabs once you're in the gully. There is a good 30ft fixed rope (13/11/2016) for the steepest section which can be used to hold onto, no rappel necessary. The often-photographed red tower is visible from the summit of Wilson - the gully you want to descend is behind this tower, i.e the gully goes west before arcing to the north. We didn'@S... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11)
By: David Bruneau When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Gear Beta: Even for punters like us who plan on falling their way up the Freeblast, a #4 cam for the half dollar is unnecessary. I couldn't even see where you would place one. It can be sewn up with cams up to #3 camalot. This and the pitch before were soaking wet when we did it - waiting a couple days after heavy rain is recommended.

For the groove on P5, pretty much anything besides regular nuts and cams will protect it well. Offset nuts, offset cams, ballnuts ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : European vacation (5.11a R)
By: David Bruneau When: Oct 23, 2016

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Comments: To reiterate Derricks comment, the first rap anchor is to your left when you top out. You will probably belay at a 5 bolt slackline anchor at the top of P8. Your rap anchor is visible on another ledge around a corner to your left, about level with the slackline anchor. A short, easy traverse and downclimb gets you there, I liked being roped up for this.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : European vacation (5.11a R)
By: David Bruneau When: Oct 23, 2016

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Comments: We found no 5.11, no R and no 4 star pitches on this route. 5.10+ with increasingly loose rock as you ascend. The so called "money" pitch (#7) was still fairly loose and not particularly exposed or remarkable. We (deliberately) carried a 15 pound jug to a less dangerous location up higher. This hold was within a foot of a bolt on the fifth pitch - it seems as if the route wasn't cleaned much, despite being sport-bolted on rappel. Watching s... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 4 - Arch Rock : Entrance Exam (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: We learned a lot on this route. It took us about as long as the entire Serenity-Sons combo as our chimney technique was a bit rusty...

The supertopo "doubles to 10" " rack recommendation is overkill - the blue big bro we brought didn't get placed. The route protected really well with 4, 5 and 6 camalots. Agreed that it "Feels like 5.10", fist jamming over the second roof via the left crack was stren... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Twilight Zone (5.10d)
By: David Bruneau When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: The 5.9 approach pitch felt very hard for the grade. The crack proper had a fixed line running down it as of 2 weeks ago, providing a nice bail option for those who find themselves running out of daylight and stamina like myself. You fall straight into the sharp flake at the bottom of the business, so bump a #6 cam up that section to lessen the impact.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 27, 2016

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Comments: First valley route. Didn't seem too sandbagged, lined up well with Squamish grades on very similar thin hands cracks at the Chief base.

Beta spray: Make a plan when you're on the ledge with the bolts and rest well in the pods and stances. The OW sectionisn't technically difficult if you know how to heel-toe, probably 5.9 to get into it (don't place gear in the way of your legs, rerack your gear to yr right side) th... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Warrior Wall
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Approach beta: the go left-right beta here got us lost in an epic gully-hell that had more than one set of bail slings in it. Basically you should be able to see the climb at the beginning of the trail and for the entirety of the approach gully to the climb. If you cannot see the route 10 minutes into your approach, turn back and take another fork!

Rock Climbing Photo: Right/Wrong gully
Right/Wrong gully



Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Warrior Wall : The Warrior (5.10d)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Intimidating but soft. Rock is quite grippy and feels somewhat underclimbed. 70m with knotted ends + trending left gets you down in one rap. #4 was nice at crux. Bring lots of gear, doesn't matter what kind as there are many, many pro options.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Damnation Crack (5.9+)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: The climbing is 5.9, but bold thru the chimney section. Bring small pro (RP's, ballnuts) for up higher in the chimney or expect some excitement... I found my self run-out facing outwards with a decent placement a foot out of reach.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: First 2 pitches are unremarkable - find another way up to the ledge. The headwall crack might be the best pitch of 5.7 I have ever done.

Descent is fine. Follow cairns down the first obvious gully.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Mt Stuart : The Direct North Ridge w/ G... (5.9+)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: First alpine climb. Tried to do this car-to-car in a day, in a party of 3 with a 3:30AM start. Summit at 5:50PM from the south approach, then f***ed up the descent by descending the wrong couloir (not too bad) then taking the wrong trail in the dark afterwards (added 15 km to the hike, turned the day into an epic). An absolutely exhausting day - probably best to plan to bivy if you're unsure that you can do the climb and hike quickly enough to do the descent in the light. Or ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Even Steven (5.10+)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: There's a jug on this after the crux that moves if you pull out on it. Scared me quite a bit. Not quite PG13 but the pro on this is sometimes a bit strange or thin, some of the rock is hollow and you can't place gear everywhere. Bring lots of long slings.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: I had the same experience with the #6 C4 on the 10b offwidth variation, it tipped out completely 1/3 of the way up. With a blue big bro after this it was still somewhat run out on 5.9 terrain. I got a mediocre 00 mastercam in a horizontal seam about 2/3 of the way up, and many different small cams would work for the easy top part.

Also on pitch 5 (supposed 10a finger crack corner) I didn't step right due to x-marked blocks but climbed straight up a steep thin crack in ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Dark Water (5.10b)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Small gear = RP's, ballnuts, maybe an offset cam. I would call it PG13 because the pro is sometimes not rated for a lead fall and the stances are strenuous. I would not recommend trying to onsight this


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : Swift Current
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: CAMPING BETA:

Piper's Hole River has an excellent free campground, a few kilometers from the crags at Swift Current. The road into the campsites is a somewhat rough gravel road, but most small cars should be able to negotiate it without bottoming out.

There are two campsites, one can fit many tents and the other can fit maybe three but is not accessible by RV, so it's unlikely that it's occupied. It's recommended ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : ... : Earn Your Stripes (5.10c)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Very dry today, felt far easier than the FA as the crack was damp then, from just being cleaned.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : ... : Gee, I'm a Tree (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Forgot how good this route was! Probably worth mentioning that rappelling from this route has high swing potential, so it's best to have the last climber toprope it and clean the draws.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : ... : Richard Parker (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Added another bolt for the ledge traverse. Probably best to unclip this once the bolt on the arete is clipped to reduce rope drag.

This was described as "5.8 climbing with 5.10 routefinding"


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