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Member Since: Nov 23, 2009
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Dave Clark 5.10

Point Rank: # 1,251
Total Points: 665

9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Dave Clark 5.10 been climbing?










Contributions


All 2009 | Routes 14 | Areas 8 | Approach Trails | Photos 81 | Page Improvements | Comments 147 | Posts 1 | Stars 905 | Ratings 853
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Via Comatose Amigo (5.10a/b)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Just climbed this stellar route for the 4th time. Thanks for the nice new top anchors, Bruce and Dale. Beta: a 70m rope gets you down to 10 ft of 2nd Class walking above the trail, so no need for two ropes or rapping shenanigans, and belaying from the ground is OK with a 70m. Also, there are 11 bolts plus top anchors. (Richard's baker's dozen comment may have included the top anchors, or else his baker was cheating him.)


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Wing Ding (5.10a)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Sep 16, 2017

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Comments: Direct start to bolt 1 is good at 10a (but PG-13 due to groundfall risk); angling up from left on sloping hand rail is easier and can be protected with a small cam. Can also protect runouts higher up with 1/2" to 1" cams in horizontal cracks. With enough wandering, this route could be climbed at 5.9.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Groper (5.10)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Sep 4, 2017

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Comments: I could find no bolts branching off Joint Therapy (shared start with Groper) and heading to Honey Pot chains, and there are only 6 bolted lines from Deflator Mouse to Honey Pot, not 7. So Groper must still be a TR variation of Honey Pot.


Location: Colorado : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Joint Therapy (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Sep 4, 2017

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Comments: The "Groper start", which is apparently the first 3(?) bolts of Joint Therapy, felt like 10a to me. After Harald's comment that he had bolted Groper, I had expected to find a separate bolt line that branched off to the right from JT. There doesn't appear to be any such bolts heading to the Honey Pot anchors, but JT is well bolted with new-looking bolts.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : The Garden : ... : Photo
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: Great pic, Mark. I didn't appreciate the sun as much when I was blinded by it on the route.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : The Garden : Fine Fir (5.7)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: After the second bolt, you can stay on the face to the left anchors (Just Do It) and get in a bit of questionable small gear, but this is harder than 5.7. Going right and over onto the face that heads up to the higher anchors is easier but unprotected runout. None of it is very good.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Devil's Thumb : Photo
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 13, 2017

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Comments: The downclimb is about 15 ft and pretty vertical in places. Mostly good hands but fractured rock requires caution.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Devil's Thumb
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments: I agree with BameR in the comment above and others who have noted the less-than-trivial west side approach to the notch. Although the Devil's Spiral & variation routes start at the notch, the crux of both is probably the traverse approach pitch. See beta photos showing the "standard" west side approach. Mostly 3rd class, but the steep 15' downclimb felt like the hardest part of the whole day. After passing the old piton and stepping around a blind corner bulge, there is a good ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 7, 2017

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Comments: It's a big flake; left edge come into play on PC en route to first bolt.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 2, 2017

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Comments: Those 4-6 bats mentioned in the comment above have invited friends to join them. That big flake at the start of P1 now houses many (dozens? hundreds?) bats within your fingertip reach as you grab all those great holds. I don't think they will bite. I don't think they have rabies. (Although there were two on the ground that had fallen and couldn't get up. Maybe just arthritis?)


Location: Colorado : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Schoolyard
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 27, 2017

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Comments: Rock quality is pretty poor in places, OK in others. Completely out of the blue, a 10 lb. rock fell off the wall within a couple feet of two bystanders. Even with their helmets, contact would have been a sure injury. No climbers, ropes, animals, or other external influence had been near where the rock came from; it just let go (near Unknown 5.11).


Location: Colorado : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Schoolyard : MK (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 27, 2017

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Comments: Felt like 10b with groundfall potential until the third clip. Still fun though. (Less exciting options would be stick clip or TR off anchors for Grand Ave.)


Location: Colorado : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Crowd Control (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 27, 2017

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Comments: Beware of a weak block/flake just a couple feet below the top anchors. It's a very inviting hand hold but ready to break out. I couldn't clean it with people below, but I think it might be removable without a prybar.


Location: Colorado : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Prow : Snail Trail (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 27, 2017

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Comments: Groundfall potential getting to the first and second clips, so either a stickclip or small-medium trad gear could be used to increase security.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Wild Child (5.11-)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 7, 2017

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Comments: As correctly stated by Jay in 2009, there are only 6 bolts on pitch 1; spacing looks a bit old-school from the ground, but it climbs just fine at 5.9, and as Brian found out in 2015, those next two bolts leading to the big chain hanging from the roof are not on this route (not bolts 7 and 8 on P1, but I just had to find out). I really should read these comments before I climb the route.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Dirt Trek (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jun 18, 2017

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Comments: This is a good route and good addition to the Zone. A full 30 meter pitch. Nice job, Ken & Mike.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Lame Line (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jun 18, 2017

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Comments: Even on a busy day, you are sure to have this route to yourself. The rock is horrible in many places, and the swarming bees didn't help. Perhaps good for the adventure factor, as for every place where you can trust a hold or gear placement, there are several others you can't. I cleaned it as much as I dared on a busy day, but it appears an additional few tons of rock is ready to come down.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Number 5 Crack (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: Although I think the route is less than the 120' in George's comment, it seemed best to belay the second from the top to avoid the rope running over sharp edges at the top of the wall. Even though I found many good nut and cam placements, I agree that it was sometimes hard to find good ones from positions with a good stance.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Overflow Direct (5.10a)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jun 1, 2017

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Comments: A quirky cat. Good in its weirdness.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rabbit Hole : Chocolate Bunny (5.8+ PG13)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Mar 12, 2017

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Comments: A big chunk (~100 lb) of the arete broke off under toe load today near bolt 5. Injured the climber and near-death experience for the belayer. Bomb rating confirmed by falling bomb. Beware.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Live Action Wall : Team Umizoomi (5.10b)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Mar 8, 2017

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Comments: 11 bolts is correct. There's a new bolt line on the left end, so Umizoomi is now the 5th route from the left, just left of Rocky and Bullwinkle.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Live Action Wall : The Adventures of Rocky and... (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Mar 8, 2017

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Comments: 11 bolts. Nice route.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : Resident Bush (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: Choices: easiest way up = 5.8+, belly to the bolts = 10+. Lots of variations to this top anchor, including multiple trad lines to right.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Crystal Cat (5.9+)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Good route for 5.7 climbers with a 5.9 rope gun to get a rope up the last 15 ft. Food for thought: a second bolt and rap anchors at bolt 11 would offer a nice 30m route option at 5.7 for all the beginners at Cat Slab.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : The Joy of My World (is in ... (5.9+)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Good route; thx Josh. Both pairs of anchors at the top are good. I give it a 5.9L, for lichen which is still abundant and adds significant difficulty seeing and using footholds. I'll take a brush next time, and it should be a solid 5.9 when it cleans up.


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