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Member Since: Feb 25, 2010
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 8,566
Total Points: 30

21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Dave Alie been climbing?


All 226 | Routes | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 142 | Stars 30 | Ratings 33

Contributed Comments


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Mushroom People (5.10c)
By: Dave Alie When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: I found the start to be reasonably well-protected despite the reputation of 5.9R off the deck. If the other climbers who came after us are any indication, it seems the standard beta is to run it out through this section, but those uninterested in dangerous climbing should look closely at the start before skipping this pitch. Off-set cams or stoppers might make finding a good placement easier, but even without I was able to find what felt to be adequate protection to the break. Extremely fun clim... more >>

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Mantel Illness (5.11-) : Photo
By: Dave Alie When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Prints through the website:

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a) : Photo
By: Dave Alie When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Sure can:
Contact through the site is probably the best way to go for things like prints.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10c)
By: Dave Alie When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Great route! The gear beta in this thread is pretty overwhelming so I'll resist adding another opinion except to say that I strongly recommend doing this route as two pitches.

The first two historical pitches (to the top of the chimney) don't really require much gear so you (hopefully!) arrive at the start of the "third" pitch with almost the entire rack. Fire the crux, belay, then take it to the top of the tower. Rope management is easy, and due to the nature of the route (no need to sew up t... more >>

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Unnamed 10+ Left of Sig Sau... (5.10+)
By: Dave Alie When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: I hopped on this to kill time while some friends were on nearby routes and I was also surprised by the content of the pitch. I was also surprised how secure the climbing was despite the wideness and extremely sandy upper half. There are an excess of good rests on this route.

The Bloom guide recommends one 4 inch cam which I thought undershot the mark pretty substantially, but I also felt the above gear recommendations were a bit excessive. I think with either two #4 C4s or one #4 an... more >>

Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Dave Alie When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: What a great route! Several sources mentioned the popularity of moving left after the fourth pitch (acute 5.9 corner or black corner variation) to join Escape Artist rather than continuing up. Both options join the sloping ledge below the lightning bolt crack, and I should add that I haven't done Escape Artist, so I can't make a direct comparison, but I thought the original fifth pitch (engaging 5.9 in an orange-ish left-facing corner) was some of the best climbing on the entire route. Do this p... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Review (5.12b)
By: Dave Alie When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Replaced the two carabiners on the chains yesterday, they were starting to get some nice gouges. If those were you biners and you'd like them back, feel free to contact me.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Skeletonic (5.11+ PG13)
By: Dave Alie When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: I was another who got on this route after being assured it was 10a. Spoiler alert: it's not. I had plenty of time to piece this revelation together on my long way down from a fall near the top. While the bolts are good and protect the meat of the hard climbing, I definitely would not recommend treating this like a sport route. There are a couple committing, non-trivial moves before the cracks disappear, and the three central bolts arrive, that you definitely would not want to fall from if you ha... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Dave Alie When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Likely easier for folks with bigger hands; I got a reasonable lock at the crux which made the moves easier than for those who have to hold a gaston. Either way, the business is so short, I'm not sure it earns the 12-.

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Deep Throat (5.10a)
By: Dave Alie When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: For what it's worth, I also felt that this was stiff for 10a even by Vedauwoo standards. For all my struggling, however, I managed to send first try, so I don't think it's outrageously sandbagged. In regards to the off-width start, the crack in the recess starts a bit wide, but you can stem and chimney your way through a series of good stances which make bringing really wide gear unnecessary. Leave the #6 on the ground. +1 for Slim's comment about somewhat wonky gear. Good placements can b... more >>

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: Dave Alie When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Finally got around to climbing this on July 5, 2013 - what an incredible route! After being peppered by gear beta questions from other climbers, I thought I'd chip in my two cents here. WARNING: BETA.... Having lead both pitches, I thought the technical crux was definitely the fourth pitch, but the chimney was where I really got worked. I was expecting a wide-ish crack that I could climb more-or-less straight in if needed, but this was not the case. A few fist jams are available on the left for ... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Naked Hedge (5.10)
By: Dave Alie When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: After reading the comments on for this climb, I felt compelled to throw in my lot with some of the more recent comments about the routes condition. There is a little bit of loose rock on this route but not too much. The bigger problem is rock that is slightly fractured or otherwise less than stable. Most of those blocks feel secure at least for now, but it is best to tread lightly through the opening series. It's easy to imagine the overwhelming quantity of loose rock that must have existed on t... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Schwing Salute (5.11b/c)
By: Dave Alie When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: Short but fun. Moderate face climbing to a short boulder problem. Great route for beginning 5.11 leaders.

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