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Member Since: Jul 17, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Dankasaurus
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Point Rank: # 5,437
Total Points: 105
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 266 | Routes | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 45 | Posts 157 | Stars 45 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Heady solo.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: Hard to believe this photo....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Dankasaurus When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Death block alert. Finger crack variation finish. Avoid this pitch or, at the least, avoid putting any gear into this certain-to-fly, microwave, detached thing. The block is clearly shown (with gear) in one of the photos.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: This photo nicely illustrates the 2nd, and most unavoidable, detached death block on the climb. The block feature with the gear nestled in it is a terrible accident waiting to happen.

Avoid this variation of the finish to South Face. Go left, and belay under the "offwidth" on the SW corner and climb that.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Nice shot of the 1st absolute death cookie on this climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7+) : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: There are fatty bolts and rap rings nearby, now. No need for the triangle tat anymores last time I looked.


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: From my understanding of this area's orogeny, most of the rock on Washington is quartzite or schist, not granite. Anyways, it's frictiony and has that nice alpine feel. The descent of the Huntington Ravine trail can be accomplished onsight with some seriously exposed 3rd classing and would be a terrible option if moist. But, it was dry the day that we did it, and is doable if you have energy left from the climb. Again: The Huntington Ravine trail is a... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Double Vee (5.9+)
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: This is a difficult and slippery climb. Make sure you get warmed up and have a good belay. The second Vee has a nasty surprise. Surely a deserving of the "Cathedral +" rating along with all the others at this old-school cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over and Out (5.8)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: The downclimb: if you end up belaying while standing on choss, you don't do the 2nd pitch for whatever reason, and perhaps the wall is festooned with many parties including a party on the OTH bolts, then there is a terrible choss traverse and downclimb waiting for you.

The terrible part is more about knocking rocks off than it is technical difficulty, but the technical downclimb moves are very exposed, and the poor trees are all dead. Please be careful of others down below, ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: I went this way, left of the easier and standard path, first and got decent gear (above the climber, at the same level as the upper shadow corner) but then was looking at an insecure 10-ish face-mantel move with gear below my toes and death if that gear blew...so I downclimbed and went the standard way.

Don't go right of the upper corner unless you climb 11, like gear puzzles, and have a good partner.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : Zig Zag Crack (V1)
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Haha, truly the Reppy's of Boulder problems, this one really does make you feel good inside. Fun, sustained, tricky top out, bullet stone.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Raven Crack (5.9+)
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The money pitch is 4 stars for sure....just make sure the lower crack is dry before you decide it'll be a nice 5.9 lead. More like solid 10 when the lower of the two right angling cracks is wet through the crux after the (awesome) chimney moves. Great gear in the dry upper crack means it stays safe in this condition, just bloody hard at 9


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Raven Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The problem with Raven Crack I found was that even in mid august, after a dry spell, the critical lower crack near the climber's foot was wet and slimy. This makes the climb way harder than 5.9, IMO. But it's a super awesome line.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Looks stellar...and maybe he never actually even climbed Alexander's, because as a rock climb...it's wetter than a 28 year old, Connecticut, outdoorsy chick at a Neptune Slide show.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Desdemona : Northwest Arete (5.9+)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: Small hands make this harder.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock : Guided [Missile] (5.9-)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: Missile is the correct spelling for a self powered projectile of the sort I believe the route is sposed to represent.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Warm-up Boulders West (aka ... : Black Warm-up (V-easy) : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: And look, no wedding band! Does she take it off even for V-Easy routes?

Will SpencerParkin rate this only 1 star?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Red Wall (5.10)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: This climb is old school alpine 5.10. A classic Kor route, with decrepit old bolts and pins here and there.

Missing the 5.7 starting dihedral pitch made this climb a bit more interesting. We ended up left of the normal route all the way up to the base of the "death flake" pitch. The climbing mostly 5.8/5.9 or a bit harder. A fun chimney, some mild offwidthing, clean rock...so, no big deal if you miss the obvious corner start like the morons we are.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Where is "In search of Unicorns", the famous 11 on the Tail?

Ratings (difficulty and star) appear to be wrong for that one, if it's in the correct position.


Location: Nick's Album : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: for sure...love that climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Hypotenuse (5.9)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Climbed both the corner (lead) and the thin crack on the face (TR). Both could be considered dicey for gear by modern standards. Both lines are super fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Malign (5.7)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Good route for new trad leaders. Plentiful gear, and if you bring large passive stuff, you can sink it everywhere. Fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: What would happen here should the leader fall? I love Lefthand and all, but it seems a better belay position could be obtained. What a pill, I know.


Location: CO : Eldorado Canyon SP - FHRC n...
By: Dankasaurus When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: However it started, it should be resisted vigorously.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: "Rambo Redpoint" Robinson.


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