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Member Since: Apr 23, 2012
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 133 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 8 | Stars 53 | Ratings 46
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs : Discrepancy (5.8)
By: Dan Mathews When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb. The first 15-20' is not that easy or easy to protect. Some of the other placements take some effort too. Definitely harder than Slab Rats but on par for many Seneca 5.8s.


Location: Alpine Climbing & Mountaine... : Survive an Unplanned Bivy
By: Dan Mathews When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: I always slip a lighter in a zippered pocket of an inner layer of clothes after a similar early experience to George. It paid off a decade later when we topped out on the Shield after the sun set in early March. The first load up to find some flat ground included the rack but not the rope. Low and behold scrambling back down in the dark, after five days on the wall, seemed a lot steeper and scarier than the scramble up! After a few hours of searching for the way back to our gear while trying ... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+) : Photo
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: We had similar crowds midweek in October. It was still worth it though! Met some nice Austrians while waiting for the party of three ahead of us.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Fabulous climb that was worth the crowds, etc. Where else can you find a 1,000+ foot 5.8? It was 92 degrees in Vegas but quite comfortable on the climb. The approach was in the sun, but the climb was in the shade all day in October. While there are many bolts, only the 7th pitch (and perhaps the last) felt like a sport climb. The other pitches have bolts but they are pretty far apart.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Thought this was a great, varied climb with some cool moves. Really enjoyed it. I did find some of the bolt placements and the pitch 4 route description a bit strange though.

On pitch 1 a bolt is needed halfway up the 30' detached pillar you climb at the beginning, not above the pillar where you have a good crack. The entire pillar is loose and hollow so I wouldn't/didn't place any gear behind it. Pitch 4 has a bolt way out right, which we never went near. I'm not sure why one would climb ... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Single 60m rope descent info. Four rappels. The first two raps do not follow the climb. This is necessary because pitch 3 is 120 feet and a rappel with a single 60m will not come close to reaching the anchor at the top of pitch 2. At the top of pitch 4 use the bolted belay about 15-20 feet right of the pitch 4 crack.(There is another bolted belay straight up from the pitch 4 crack. Don't use that one.)

Rap #1 - From the top of pitch 4 rappel to a hanging, bolted belay that is on the f... more >>


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Southeast Corner : T&T (5.8+)
By: Dan Mathews When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: I'd second the P1 route description. It' a sport climb to the interim 2 bolt anchor, but it is a mixed climb above that to the Kaufmann ledge and beyond. You have some very long runouts if you just clip bolts above that first two bolt anchor. While it may not be 5.9 by Seneca standards it would be most anywhere else.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Mystery Bolter (5.9)
By: Dan Mathews When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: For what it is worth, I did not think the beginning of the climb was the crux or particularly difficult. The first bolt is high though. However, I thought several sections of face climbing were more difficult and quite runout. The bolts are 20 feet apart in spots and the rock is a bit sandy. I thought it was hard and intimidating for a 5.9, at least compared to the other 9s and 10s I did that week.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : ... : Mantle Dynamics (5.10b)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: Very fun route with several cruxes. I laughed when I saw the first two bolts, then quickly realized the first moves were harder than they appeared!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : ... : Continental Crust (5.10a)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I thought it was a little easier than Mantle Dynamics.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Shock and Awe (5.10a)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I thought the climbing was harder and more run out than it looked from the ground. Because there are a couple of large ledges on the route, there are occasions where it is likely one would hit a big ledge if you were to fall while nearing the next bolt. The bolting is a bit sporty compared to many of the newer routes at Castle Rocks.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Fruit Pie (5.8)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Great climb with great rock. Perhaps the most fun I've had on a 5.7. Did the link up with Zinger (5.8), which made for a long, consistent 5.7-5.8 patina jug haul!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : ... : Photo
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Actually, this is the third pitch of Zinger. It makes a great link up with Fruit Pie. If you do this, the traverse over to Zinger from the 2nd belay on Fruit Pie seems a little harder and more run out than the first 2 pitches of FP. I thought FP felt like 5.7 while the traverse to Zinger and the remaining pitches of Zinger are 5.8.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Zinger (5.8)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Probably the most fun of all the climbs I did in the area over a week. Did it in the sun, in the rain, as a finish to fruit pie ... Did it 3 times in a week. I was smiling and laughing the whole way up!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Blind Pig (5.10a)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: The climb has a hard/awkward move at the beginning and a challenging sequence at the end. The middle is a bit easier, but a lot of fun.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : It Takes Two (5.8)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: I had trouble figuring out where the route started as the initial bolts are a ways up and hard to see from the ground. The route begins on the right side of the long overhang a few feet off the ground. You can easily protect the roof move by slinging a horn at the roof. The climbing is then very easy up the slab to the first bolt. The second pitch is great.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Between Heaven and Earth (5.9)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: This is a long pitch. Bring several long slings. Route starts on the left edge of the overhang near the ground. There is a bolt a few feet up, which makes the start obvious. I thought this was the start of Takes Two, but that route starts at the far right of the initial overhang where there is not a bolt.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - East Face : Crimson Arete (5.10a)
By: Dan Mathews When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Great fun. Wish it were longer.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Alcoa Presents (5.8)
By: Dan Mathews When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: While you can't clip the aluminum pin because the eye is into the crack, you can thread it with a thin dyneema sling. The next few moves are the crux for me and I actually find them more difficult than Triple S.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: Dan Mathews When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: I thought the first 2 moves were particularly more difficult than the rest of the climb and harder than 5.8. As an East Coast climber it reminded me of the first few moves of Conns East Direct at Seneca. The climb was rated 5.6... except for the first two 5.8 moves :)

Don't let them intimidate you. The rest of the climb is easier and a lot of fun.

This was the first move of my first climb at the Leap, and I was really surprised when I almost came off there.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Triple Direct (5.9 C2-)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: For what it is worth, I think the aid is a little more committing than the nose. The second pitch above Mammoth is comparable in difficulty (but longer) than the pitch above Camp 5. The next pitch is as hard as any on the Nose, and the long C2 corner up to the Shield route is longer and slightly more difficult than any of the Nose aid. Still, it is all straight forward and didn't need anything more complicated than brass offsets and a few offset mastercams. (You'll want a hook for the hard s... more >>


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Triple S (5.8+)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: Love this climb. Stemming and even some chimney moves for rests are the key. Solid protection is everywhere, so don't let it scare you off. Some thinly protected Seneca 5.7s are more intimidating than this. It doesn't get much better.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Southeast Corner : Don't Think Twice (5.7+)
By: Dan Mathews When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: This is a fun face climb with lots of incut holds. The bolt spacing keeps your attention in places.

Definitely bring a #2 camalot (bomber placement) for protecting the last few moves before the belay. Otherwise you are probably 20' above a bolt when you pull the little roof/left facing corner, which seemed to be the hardest moves of the climb.

I didn't see any good options for supplementing the bolts, except for the camalot described above, so I didn't place any. Some of the bolts a... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9)
By: Dan Mathews When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: We did this early Sunday morning before it warmed up or anyone was there. It is a lot of fun and extremely well protected. The first pitch seemed easier than several of the .9's we did later in the day in the Black Corridor. We did 3 single rope (60m) raps and didn't have any issues with snags or breaking off holds.

I could do a climb like this over and over again. Thanks to whomever put it up!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: Dan Mathews When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Climbed it this past weekend and had the route to ourselves. It was a very enjoyable climb. Most of the climbing is considerably easier than 5.7, but an inexperienced climber shouldn't take it lightly. The protection can be quite sparse in spots (more like 30' between placements) although the climbing is probably 5.4 in those sections.

The biggest challenge I experienced was finding an adequate belay station. On the third pitch from the top I ran out of rope (60 m) and ended up downclimbi... more >>


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