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Member Since: Sep 1, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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dameeser
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Point Rank: # 2,839
Total Points: 196

15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has dameeser been climbing?










Contributions


All 287 | Routes 5 | Areas 2 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 54 | Posts 155 | Stars 29 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Between Heaven and Earth (5.13a)
By: dameeser When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: The crack does not need bolts, it takes gear. The addition of bolts on the crack would likely not be approved by ACE. Be seriously careful getting to the third bolt, that shit is choss. Someone needs to go up with a bucket and clean it. Super fun route Eric, thanks for putting in the work!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Color of Pomegranates (5.12c R)
By: dameeser When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: The climbing on the face is AMAZING. This is a long forgotten gem. I only gave it two stars because of how indirect the climbing is. There is no gear after the bolt on the face, so if someone is going to follow it, they are not allowed to fall.

I traversed over to the Spur of the Moment anchor. The only gear I placed after the bolt was on the arete, so after I clipped the anchor, I traversed back over to the arete, cleaned the gear, climbed back to the anchor, pulled the rope, and rapped. I the... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Je T'Aime (5.12b/c R)
By: dameeser When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Fun route. Be careful when falling at the first and second bolts. You move leftwards away from the bolts, and when you fall, you pendulum across an edge.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : ... : Photo
By: dameeser When: Mar 12, 2017

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Comments: Are you flipping the cameraman off?


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : The Spark (5.13c)
By: dameeser When: Feb 21, 2017

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Comments: This is a rad route. I can see it being a lot harder for shorter people. I'm 5'9", and the way I did it felt like low 5.13. Thanks, Mike!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11-)
By: dameeser When: Feb 17, 2017

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Comments: There are no pins on the crux of P2. I used a trucker green Alien for my first piece in the crack and an offset blue\purple Mastercam for the pin scar(s). ACE is evaluating whether there should be a like-for-like replacement for the pin(s), an application for a bolt, or to just leave it alone. Please send an email to aceeldo@googlegroups.com with your opinions.

Also, the pin on pitch 3 has a quicklink on it, so you don't have to worry about having the right sized carabiner.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Dangerous Acquaintances (5.12a X)
By: dameeser When: Dec 10, 2016

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Comments: I wouldn't say it's X because of the run outs, I would say it's X because every gear placement is in crap rock. Super fun climbing though.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: dameeser When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: The .12 A0 pitch should go free at mid .13. It's a really good and wild pitch. The sad thing is, besides the lack of a right foot, is that a key right hand is going to break off the next time someone try's to free it.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Fight Gone Bad (5.12+ R)
By: dameeser When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: Nice job, Matt. I have climbed this on TR, and it has some really fun climbing on it. Falling would not be a good idea.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Turkey Jerky (5.12c R)
By: dameeser When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this again. I don't think it's as scary as I made it sound. I used 4 gear placements, and you can double up at 3 of them.


Location: Colorado : Celebrate Eldo! - Recreatin...
By: dameeser When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: We have a few t-shirts left if anyone wants to buy one.

T-Shirt


Location: Colorado : Celebrate Eldo! - Recreatin...
By: dameeser When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: All routes will be open. We just don't want anybody near the anchors or climbing up to the anchors. The Bastille should be fine, but don't climb the choss on the Wind Tower side below the anchor (don't top out).


Location: Colorado : Celebrate Eldo! - Recreatin...
By: dameeser When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: UPDATE:

There is a little bit of confusion regarding the event ticket and the park entrance fee. The event ticket will get you into the park if you take the shuttle, walk, bike, or park outside of the park. If you wish to drive into the park, normal park fees apply. We are truly sorry for the confusion.


Location: Colorado : Celebrate Eldo! - Recreatin...
By: dameeser When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: La Sportiva is going to be doing shoe demos!


Location: Colorado : Celebrate Eldo! - Recreatin...
By: dameeser When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: If you buy a ticket, you can get into the park without any additional fee. You can buy a ticket before the event or at the entrance on the day of the event.

We have a bunch of swag to give away!

Here is the story that CPR did last year.

cpr.org/news/story/high-wire-w...


Location: Colorado : Empire : The Halidome : Chuting Gallery : The Laundry Chute (5.11 PG13)
By: dameeser When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Mark Tarrant said he found a hex halfway up this route, so someone has been on it before.


Location: Colorado : Empire : The Halidome : Chuting Gallery : Point and Shoot (5.12c)
By: dameeser When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: It's a little run out from the second bolt to the 3rd bolt. It's easy, but I think I will add a bolt there. I also plan on adding a bolt to replace the nut at the top. Once you figure out all of the beta, this route is super fun and enjoyable.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Spur of the Moment (5.11c PG13)
By: dameeser When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: The 1/4" buttonhead on P1 was replaced.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.12a PG13)
By: dameeser When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Thank's for updating that anchor, Noah, it looks a lot better than the last time I used it. I would still be worried about belaying off that first pitch anchor though. The nut is in a block that looks nasty, and the pin is well...old. If you still have the juice, you can climb though the next roof and belay at the next stance out right. It has much better gear for an anchor.

You can get an RP at the pitch 3 second roof crux, above the current pin. It's a ... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : White Buffalo (5.12d)
By: dameeser When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: We climbed the first 3 pitches of Canus into White Buffalo. That seemed like the way to do it - every pitch was mouthwatering! Who does not want to climb a mega corner into a short OW into 300+ft of fingers and hands?! Seriously, this route was great. If you cant climb the traverse pitch it's well worth it to pull on the bolts to access the crack above.

The direct finish can go free at what felt like 5.11 climbing. It looks intimidating, which is why I chose to take the... more >>


Location: Colorado : Empire : The Halidome : Chuting Gallery : Chute 'em Up (5.12a)
By: dameeser When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: I got on this route not knowing I needed gear. I'm not sure if having gear would make me feel any better. That flake might expand. I vote for a bolt. Fun route.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12b) : Photo
By: dameeser When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Dave, if your intent was to remove the anchor, you should have removed the entire thing. Leaving a SS stud and a crap bolt does not seem any better, and I can't imagine the landowner thinking any different. It is also pretty easy for someone to put the hanger back. It's a little unclear from your comment on why you did this, but I am in favor of not having an anchor here. I would just prefer the entire anchor to be completely removed.


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Dark Star (5.10+)
By: dameeser When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: We got off route for pitch 3 and 4, but we were still able to make it to the corner. We went off to the right a bit after pitch 2, into a long hand crack and then traversed into the corner. It was a fun adventure but a little rusty.

We just soloed pitch 10. It's exposed but easy.

Pitch 11 and 12 can be linked, as stated, but there was a lot of drag. I would link it if you were concerned about daylight.


Location: Colorado : Action Committee for Eldora...
By: dameeser When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: If you click on the desired application name (above "view votes"), a PDF will open up. There is a lot of information in those PDFs, but you are encouraged to climb the route yourself.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Lion (5.12b X)
By: dameeser When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: I climbed up and left a little and placed two microcams before getting onto the face. Perhaps I should have watched Matt's video or read Steve's description. I didn't use the sling or find the #2 placement Regardless of how you "protect" yourself, it is unadvised to fall. Stellar route!


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