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Member Since: Sep 1, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,103
Total Points: 241

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 293 | Routes 5 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 57 | Posts 155 | Stars 32 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Centaur (5.13c)
By: dameeser When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: The bolts on pitch two were replaced with fat glue-ins. The 1/4" bolt at the belay for the first pitch was also replaced with a fatty.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Hawk-Eagle Ridge > Inflorescence (5.11d)
By: dameeser When: Oct 14, 2017

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Comments: Missing hangers. Not leadable.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Hawk-Eagle Ridge > Anthurium (5.13a)
By: dameeser When: Oct 14, 2017

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Comments: It's more like 11 bolts, but half of them are missing hangers. You can't lead it in its current state.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Je T'Aime (5.12b/c R)
By: dameeser When: Oct 13, 2017

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Comments: The 4 ring bolts were replaced with fat glue-ins.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > Wasabe (5.12b/c)
By: dameeser When: Oct 12, 2017

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Comments: The 4 ring bolts on the face were replaced with glue-ins.


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Wild Rock Area > Wild Rock > Wild at Heart (5.13-)
By: dameeser When: Aug 13, 2017

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Comments: It's harder now that the chickenhead hold at the crux broke. It goes at 12d or 13a now.


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Wild Rock Area > Wild Rock > Problem Child (5.12b) > Photo
By: dameeser When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: That does not look like Rob.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > Northwest Corner (5.11-)
By: dameeser When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: Phil,

You should submit an application to ACE, and the community can vote on it. I'm not saying I prefer the route one way or another. I was simply stating my experience with this route as it currently stands.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > Northwest Corner (5.11-)
By: dameeser When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: Without the pins on the 2nd pitch, the nature of this route has certainly changed. It's heads up now. I climbed it in Feb. 2017, and I placed a green Alien, an offset blue purple Master Cam, and a green c3 all right where the pin broke, just before the crux. You have to run it out to the bolt, because the pin scars won't take any gear. Sure, if the gear rips, it's going to be a big fall, just with any gear route, but the green Alien and offset Master Cam that I placed looked good.


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Heartbreak Hotel > Heartbreak June (5.11+ PG13)
By: dameeser When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: It's 5.11 for sure.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > The Color of Pomegranates (5.12c R)
By: dameeser When: May 24, 2017

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Comments: There is now a direct start to this climb. It adds some low 5.12 to the climb. Instead of traversing off of the face, you can end your adventure at the start of the Twist and Crawl project.

If you plan to go ground up, you will need some RPs and a draw with two lockers. Expect 5.12 run-outs. I would recommend you climb Darkness Till Dawn and traverse into the Twist and Crawl project's first bolt anchor. From there, you can use that anchor to hang a double length sling on bolt 7 and a doubl... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Between Heaven and Earth (5.13a)
By: dameeser When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: The crack does not need bolts, it takes gear. The addition of bolts on the crack would likely not be approved by ACE. Be seriously careful getting to the third bolt, that shit is choss. Someone needs to go up with a bucket and clean it. Super fun route Eric, thanks for putting in the work!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > The Color of Pomegranates (5.12c R)
By: dameeser When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: The climbing on the face is AMAZING. This is a long forgotten gem. I only gave it two stars because of how indirect the climbing is. There is no gear after the bolt on the face, so if someone is going to follow it, they are not allowed to fall.

I traversed over to the Spur of the Moment anchor. The only gear I placed after the bolt was on the arete, so after I clipped the anchor, I traversed back over to the arete, cleaned the gear, climbed back to the anchor, pulled the rope, and rapped. I the... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Je T'Aime (5.12b/c R)
By: dameeser When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Fun route. Be careful when falling at the first and second bolts. You move leftwards away from the bolts, and when you fall, you pendulum across an edge.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Quarry > ... > Photo
By: dameeser When: Mar 12, 2017

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Comments: Are you flipping the cameraman off?


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Brown Wall > The Spark (5.13a)
By: dameeser When: Feb 21, 2017

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Comments: This is a rad route. I can see it being a lot harder for shorter people. I'm 5'9", and the way I did it felt like low 5.13. Thanks, Mike!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > Dangerous Acquaintances (5.12a X)
By: dameeser When: Dec 10, 2016

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Comments: I wouldn't say it's X because of the run outs, I would say it's X because every gear placement is in crap rock. Super fun climbing though.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > The Texas Wall / West Velve... > Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: dameeser When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: The .12 A0 pitch should go free at mid .13. It's a really good and wild pitch. The sad thing is, besides the lack of a right foot, is that a key right hand is going to break off the next time someone try's to free it.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Whale's Tail > Fight Gone Bad (5.12+ R)
By: dameeser When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: Nice job, Matt. I have climbed this on TR, and it has some really fun climbing on it. Falling would not be a good idea.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part A - Versc... > Turkey Jerky (5.12c R)
By: dameeser When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this again. I don't think it's as scary as I made it sound. I used 4 gear placements, and you can double up on 3 of them.


Location: Colorado > Empire > The Halidome > Chuting Gallery > The Laundry Chute (5.11 PG13)
By: dameeser When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Mark Tarrant said he found a hex halfway up this route, so someone has been on it before.


Location: Colorado > Empire > The Halidome > Chuting Gallery > Point and Shoot (5.12c)
By: dameeser When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: It's a little run out from the second bolt to the 3rd bolt. It's easy, but I think I will add a bolt there. I also plan on adding a bolt to replace the nut at the top. Once you figure out all of the beta, this route is super fun and enjoyable.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Spur of the Moment (5.11c PG13)
By: dameeser When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: The 1/4" buttonhead on P1 was replaced.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Mellow Yellow (5.12a PG13)
By: dameeser When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Thank's for updating that anchor, Noah, it looks a lot better than the last time I used it. I would still be worried about belaying off that first pitch anchor though. The nut is in a block that looks nasty, and the pin is well...old. If you still have the juice, you can climb though the next roof and belay at the next stance out right. It has much better gear for an anchor.

You can get an RP at the pitch 3 second roof crux, above the current pin. It's a good piece and protects that cru... more >>


Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Wolfs Head > White Buffalo (5.12d)
By: dameeser When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: We climbed the first 3 pitches of Canus into White Buffalo. That seemed like the way to do it - every pitch was mouthwatering! Who does not want to climb a mega corner into a short OW into 300+ft of fingers and hands?! Seriously, this route was great. If you cant climb the traverse pitch it's well worth it to pull on the bolts to access the crack above.

The direct finish can go free at what felt like 5.11 climbing. It looks intimidating, which is why I chose to take the piton traverse,... more >>


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