REI Community


Member Since: Jun 29, 2007
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact D-Storm

D-Storm
is a member of
Point Rank: # 2,644
Total Points: 295

8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has D-Storm been climbing?










Contributions


All 702 | Routes 20 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 115 | Posts 117 | Stars 244 | Ratings 189
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Castle Valley > Castleton Tower > The Bjornstad Traverse ( Th... (5.10 C1)
By: D-Storm When: Nov 10, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Imagine how bummed you'd be if you were mid-pitch on, say, the North Face, and then another party pops around the corner above you to claim the belay. Ha! "Oh, hey, there, yeah we're just doing the Girdle Traverse..."


Location: Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Glenwood Canyon > No Name Canyon > Poison Ivy Wall > Werewolf Bar Mitzvah (5.6 C2 R)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 30, 2017

view comment >>
Comments:



Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Lower Tier > West Facing > Neo-Nazi Dinner Date (5.11c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Good rock. Sharp, thin, desperate crux will test your footwork and the skin on your fingertips.


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Grotto Walls Area > Lower Grotto Wall > Star Spangled Dangle (5.12a)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The 12a rating is from the Perkins guidebook and seems generous considering how good the rests are between the difficult sections. However, it also seems comparable to other "12a" sport routes on the Pass, so the ballpark figure works well enough. Fun movement and position through interesting features!


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Meat Wall > James Brown's Wild Ride (5.11d)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: There is still one notable runout about halfway up, in the open corner, where there is a committing move before you can clip the next bolt, and a fall could deposit you on the slab 20 feet below—take your time there and find the right foothold, which is hard to see, as it is obscured by a bulge....


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Lower Tier > West Facing > Rigor Mortis (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a superb climb—sustained movement and rock quality the whole way—and it is indeed quite different from the usual Rifle fare- more dependent on deft ballerina toes than biceps and back muscles. It is subject to runoff and not climbed as often as its neighbors, so it's likely to provide more of a true onsight experience (i.e. the key holds aren't necessarily highlighted with chalk). Darek had a good eye to spot the potential for this little face, as it is easy to overlook, even... more >>


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Ruckman Cave > Wreaths of Wrath (5.12b)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 23, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: If you wear a left kneepad, the first steep section feels like a jug ladder after the first hard move to get off the ledge. No way is it 12b, but it sure is a fun route on mostly good rock!


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Grotto Walls Area > Lower Grotto Wall > Stand By Your Van (5.10b)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 10, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I found this route to be steeper and harder than it looks. The cruxes were classic Indy funk: deciphering the path of least resistance with off-balance movement through water-polished grooves and roofs. There is a hidden hold at the first crux that keeps the rating at 10b. I was very happy to have .3 (small blue) Camalot for the slab crux, though a nut would likely work as well.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Ruckman Cave > Kielbasa Run (5.12a)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 10, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: A worthwhile route, but beware that there are still plenty of wiggly blocks and holds, especially at the beginning off the ledge. At the second clip above the ledge, there are some big blocks with chalk all over them—there's nothing else to grab at that point, really—and I felt them flex. Don't linger there!

As far as the grade, I believe Darek originally rated it 5.11d, and I can see why. I wouldn't argue with it if that's how it were rated here. And I'm not really argu... more >>


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Lincoln Creek > Phat City
By: D-Storm When: Jun 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Mick S. about "nice views and average climbing." This area is worth visiting once when you want to find some shadier, moderate morning climbs that are away from the crowds. The two easy routes on the far right side—Sunburst and Candy Apple Red—offer decent climbing, but the staging area is on a steep hillside that is not the safest, nor most comfortable place to hang out, especially if you're in a group with more than two people.


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Lincoln Creek > Phat City > Brown Sugar (5.11c/d)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a good route, but I don't think people lead it very often. I was glad to have a nut tool on my harness, as it came in handy to excavate dirt and moss from a thin crack to place protection before committing to the final slab moves.


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Lincoln Creek > Phat City > Candy Apple Red (5.8+)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Be wary of sending a new 5.8 sport leader up this—the high crux involves some committing moves above a ledge before you can clip the next bolt. In general, I thought the bolts were pretty well spaced, and the movement varies from overhangs and mantels to stemming and smearing, so a leader should be confident at the grade. Alternatively, the bolts can probably be supplemented with some small to medium gear to better protect the move off the ledge near the top.

Besides that, the belay area is o... more >>


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > The Arsenal > Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route has been rebolted with glue-ins and has chains now. I did not have much fun when I first tried it but enjoyed it pretty well once I unlocked the moves. I think part of the reason why this route is less popular is that it revolves around some steep, burly cracks that can tear you up if you whiff on a move or if you're not sure what you're doing. It also has a long span/dyno on the first crux that would be very hard for shorties (I used every inch of my 6-foot wingspan).


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Ice Cave Walls > Upper Ice Caves (Feline are... > Lovin' You is a Dirty Job (5.10a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It's useful to have four or five long draws to help straighten the rope line between the zig-zagging bolts. Also, for anyone who is not a confident 5.10 leader, it's good to be aware of a bolt in the crux that is kind of strenuous to clip, and the fall wouldn't be too pretty if you blew it with slack out. Good route, though.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > The Arsenal > Smarmacus Maximus (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The fourth bolt, as you're starting into the roof, is a very cruxy clip and may be the crux itself. I found that a big right drop-knee made the difference. It takes a little extra patience on strenuous holds to get into the position, but it's worth it, because skipping the clip is not a good idea.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park
By: D-Storm When: Aug 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I find Aleks' trolling mimicry of Sven the Great (Sven the Silent, these days) to be mostly laborious and sometimes mildly amusing. Me thinks his humor would be better if he stopped trying so hard to be like Sven and came up with original material. Rifle is full of righteous bros? That's an age-old cliche. Any righteous bros you might meet are generally the people who are passing through and not the regulars, as our egos are continuously crushed by 17-year-old girls who float up our 5.14 routes ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Wild Rock Area > Wild Rock > Wild Thing (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: What makes this amazing route even more exhilarating is climbing above the anchor to top out the boulder! It might be a little dirty on the slopers, but, man, I don't find many routes where I can do that. What a great overall experience in one little sport route.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Anti-Phil Wall > The Great Cornholio (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: 16 draws are needed if you clip all the bolts, including the anchor, which consists of one open-shut and a closed shut. I thought I did a good job using extendable runners and still had a hard time pulling slack to clip the anchor, so be ready for that. The finish is great, though. If you're up for excitement, I recommend it.

This route climbs different from most Rifle routes of a similar grade. It has some very technical slab climbing between the roofs and the sequences are easier to read ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Ruckman Cave > Call the Cops (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: "Serpentine" on the Anti-Phil Wall is a good warmup for this one. Tech-nasty stuff. The crux for me revolved around a thin crimp I had to hold onto forever while I moved my feet around just so, and there was a thin, committing deadpoint to reach a good edge near the anchors. Maybe it's 13a. I could also see how the original grade was 12c. Hard to rate these kind of routes.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Anti-Phil Wall > Serpentine (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Are you trad and bad? Then this sport route is for you! If you enjoy runouts above rusty quarter-inchers, slippery underclings, monos, dyons, and finger locks, you will enjoy the aptly named "Serpentine." I cursed as all hell the first two tries, scared for my ankles. I swore it was a pile if there ever was one, but I can't stop spraying about it now. It's so good in fact, that it's two stars now that I've done it and you, most likely, have not. I was oh-so tempted to give this one 12d, after ge... more >>


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > The Wasteland > Vision Thing (5.13a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Honestly, you don't even need pads for the kneebars. I enjoyed the route in a pair of Carhartt‎s.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > The Arsenal > Das Fruit Machine (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I overlooked this route for a long time because of its scruffy appearance. It's fun! The movement is great, and while sharp and a little unpleasant through the first roof, the quality improves all the way to the top. I particularly enjoyed the last boulder problem, which tests your fitness because there are no good footholds that allow you to shake out for very long while hanging from the jug crack.


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > The Nappy Dugout > Family Unit (5.11d)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No, James. The direct start was added by Darek Krol a couple years ago and checks in at 12b. I found the sequence to be rather unpleasant and shoulder intensive, but maybe I missed something. The roof is really fun. Tape the base of your left pinky to protect it from a sharp finger lock....


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > The Sapper Cave > The Butterfly Effect (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, the rock quality and movement is solid all the way to the anchors!


Location: Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mountain Park > Meat Wall > Carnivore (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Since it doesn't look like the author's description is coming any time soon, I'll chip in. This route is on great stone with fun pocket pulling to get you warmed up through the first four bolts or so, where you reach a small ledge and the real climbing begins. Sustained, steepening rock culminates in a nice pump as you jog up some fun crimps, pinches, and sidepulls (don't dally in any one spot too long). The climbing up to a big jug rest below the looming roof is about 11d/12a. Now for the clima... more >>


Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · Contact · About