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Member Since: Jun 29, 2007
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Total Points: 250

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 634 | Routes 18 | Areas 1 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 111 | Posts 103 | Stars 220 | Ratings 167
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Wreaths of Wrath (5.12b)
By: D-Storm When: 4 days ago

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Comments: If you wear a left kneepad, the first steep section feels like a jug ladder after the first hard move to get off the ledge. No way is it 12b, but it sure is a fun route on mostly good rock!


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Stand By Your Van (5.10b)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: I found this route to be steeper and harder than it looks. The cruxes were classic Indy funk: deciphering the path of least resistance with off-balance movement through water-polished grooves and roofs. There is a hidden hold at the first crux that keeps the rating at 10b. I was very happy to have .3 (small blue) Camalot for the slab crux, though a nut would likely work as well.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Kielbasa Run (5.12a)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: A worthwhile route, but beware that there are still plenty of wiggly blocks and holds, especially at the beginning off the ledge. At the second clip above the ledge, there are some big blocks with chalk all over them—there's nothing else to grab at that point, really—and I felt them flex. Don't linger there!

As far as the grade, I believe Darek originally rated it 5.11d, and I can see why. I wouldn't argue with it if that's how it were rated here. And I'm not really argu... more >>


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Phat City
By: D-Storm When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: I agree with Mick S. about "nice views and average climbing." This area is worth visiting once when you want to find some shadier, moderate morning climbs that are away from the crowds. The two easy routes on the far right side—Sunburst and Candy Apple Red—offer decent climbing, but the staging area is on a steep hillside that is not the safest, nor most comfortable place to hang out, especially if you're in a group with more than two people.


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Phat City : Brown Sugar (5.11c/d)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: This is a good route, but I don't think people lead it very often. I was glad to have a nut tool on my harness, as it came in handy to excavate dirt and moss from a thin crack to place protection before committing to the final slab moves.


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Phat City : Candy Apple Red (5.8+)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Be wary of sending a new 5.8 sport leader up this—the high crux involves some committing moves above a ledge before you can clip the next bolt. In general, I thought the bolts were pretty well spaced, and the movement varies from overhangs and mantels to stemming and smearing, so a leader should be confident at the grade. Alternatively, the bolts can probably be supplemented with some small to medium gear to better protect the move off the ledge near the top.

Besides that, the belay area is o... more >>


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: This route has been rebolted with glue-ins and has chains now. I did not have much fun when I first tried it but enjoyed it pretty well once I unlocked the moves. I think part of the reason why this route is less popular is that it revolves around some steep, burly cracks that can tear you up if you whiff on a move or if you're not sure what you're doing. It also has a long span/dyno on the first crux that would be very hard for shorties (I used every inch... more >>


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Upper Ice Caves (Feline are... : Lovin' You is a Dirty Job (5.10a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: It's useful to have four or five long draws to help straighten the rope line between the zig-zagging bolts. Also, for anyone who is not a confident 5.10 leader, it's good to be aware of a bolt in the crux that is kind of strenuous to clip, and the fall wouldn't be too pretty if you blew it with slack out. Good route, though.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Smarmacus Maximus (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: The fourth bolt, as you're starting into the roof, is a very cruxy clip and may be the crux itself. I found that a big right drop-knee made the difference. It takes a little extra patience on strenuous holds to get into the position, but it's worth it, because skipping the clip is not a good idea.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: D-Storm When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: I find Aleks' trolling mimicry of Sven the Great (Sven the Silent, these days) to be mostly laborious and sometimes mildly amusing. Me thinks his humor would be better if he stopped trying so hard to be like Sven and came up with original material. Rifle is full of righteous bros? That's an age-old cliche. Any righteous bros you might meet are generally the people who are passing through and not the regulars, as our egos are continuously crushed by 17-year-old girls who float up our 5.14 routes ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Wild Thing (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: What makes this amazing route even more exhilarating is climbing above the anchor to top out the boulder! It might be a little dirty on the slopers, but, man, I don't find many routes where I can do that. What a great overall experience in one little sport route.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : The Great Cornholio (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: 16 draws are needed if you clip all the bolts, including the anchor, which consists of one open-shut and a closed shut. I thought I did a good job using extendable runners and still had a hard time pulling slack to clip the anchor, so be ready for that. The finish is great, though. If you're up for excitement, I recommend it.

This route climbs different from most Rifle routes of a similar grade. It has some very technical slab climbing between the roofs and the sequences are... more >>


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Call the Cops (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: "Serpentine" on the Anti-Phil Wall is a good warmup for this one. Tech-nasty stuff. The crux for me revolved around a thin crimp I had to hold onto forever while I moved my feet around just so, and there was a thin, committing deadpoint to reach a good edge near the anchors. Maybe it's 13a. I could also see how the original grade was 12c. Hard to rate these kind of routes.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Serpentine (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Are you trad and bad? Then this sport route is for you! If you enjoy runouts above rusty quarter-inchers, slippery underclings, monos, dyons, and finger locks, you will enjoy the aptly named "Serpentine." I cursed as all hell the first two tries, scared for my ankles. I swore it was a pile if there ever was one, but I can't stop spraying about it now. It's so good in fact, that it's two stars now that I've done it and you, most likely, have not. I was oh-so tempted to give this one 12d, after ge... more >>


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Vision Thing (5.13a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: Honestly, you don't even need pads for the kneebars. I enjoyed the route in a pair of Carhartt‎s.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Das Fruit Machine (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: I overlooked this route for a long time because of its scruffy appearance. It's fun! The movement is great, and while sharp and a little unpleasant through the first roof, the quality improves all the way to the top. I particularly enjoyed the last boulder problem, which tests your fitness because there are no good footholds that allow you to shake out for very long while hanging from the jug crack.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Family Unit (5.11d)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: No, James. The direct start was added by Darek Krol a couple years ago and checks in at 12b. I found the sequence to be rather unpleasant and shoulder intensive, but maybe I missed something. The roof is really fun. Tape the base of your left pinky to protect it from a sharp finger lock....


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : The Butterfly Effect (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, the rock quality and movement is solid all the way to the anchors!


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Carnivore (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Since it doesn't look like the author's description is coming any time soon, I'll chip in. This route is on great stone with fun pocket pulling to get you warmed up through the first four bolts or so, where you reach a small ledge and the real climbing begins. Sustained, steepening rock culminates in a nice pump as you jog up some fun crimps, pinches, and sidepulls (don't dally in any one spot too long). The climbing up to a big jug rest below the looming roof is about 11d/12a. Now for the clima... more >>


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Free Hallucinogen Wall (5.13 R)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the great description, HK. Congrats on your recent weekend of crushing in the Black!


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Qualgeist (5.12b R)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: Fully agree with your descriptions on the second pitch, Madaleine – nice send! The route has bolts, but this rig ain't no sport climb. As for the top pitches, be ready for lots of wandering, heady 5.10+; the 5.11 finger crack at the end is awesome except for two bush cruxes in it. Overall, this route is all about spice. There wasn't a single pitch that seemed straightforward. This is a huge step above Trilogy, which my partner and I hiked in the rain a couple weeks ago. Oh, and once a... more >>


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Trilogy (5.12a R)
By: D-Storm When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: +1 for Chris Kalous' beta on finishing left. That little 5.10 crack to the ledge is really good. The topo Chris posted is also impressively accurate, right down to the bush drawn above the crux on pitch 4. As for my 11d rating, this was the first "5.12" I've done in the Black, so I don't have much to compare this one to, but I expected the grade to feel harder. Time will tell.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11-)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This was the first desert OW I led, Pat, so you may have a valid point on the 5.10 grade. Perhaps mid-5.10 is more fair? I'd have to revisit the route to say more confidently. Now that I think of it, the short crux on this one is probably no harder than Yosemite's "Generator Crack" (10c).


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Jones-in (5.12-)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: I believe this route and Tenderloins were both put up by Steve Hong, and I thought it was interesting that the plaque at the base of this route reads, "11+/12-" and the one under Tenderloins gets a flat "11+" which is the opposite of current consensus (Tenderloins is the harder route). Hong must have had some large fingers.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Conrad Rock : ... : Heart of Darkness (5.11a)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: It kind of adds another little crux – keeping it more solid at 11a – if you mantel out at the top. I suspect many people clip the chains while hanging from the flake at the lip. Fair enough, it's technically still a send, but you're missing out on the final crux – and punting on J-Tree style – if you don't top out. There's something really satisfying when you find yourself suddenly out of the darkness, basking in the glow of a desert sunset.


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