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Rock Climbing Photo: Drizzly day ascent


Member Since: Jun 29, 2007
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,125
Total Points: 365
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 5
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 564 | Routes 17 | Areas 1 | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 105 | Posts 89 | Stars 194 | Ratings 143
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: This route has been rebolted with glue-ins and has chains now. I did not have much fun when I first tried it but enjoyed it pretty well once I unlocked the moves. I think part of the reason why this route is less popular is that it revolves around some steep, burly cracks that can tear you up if you whiff on a move or if you're not sure what you're doing. It also has a long span/dyno on the first crux that would be very hard for shorties (I used every inch... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Upper Ice Caves (Feline are... : Lovin' You is a Dirty Job (5.10a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: It's useful to have four or five long draws to help straighten the rope line between the zig-zagging bolts. Also, for anyone who is not a confident 5.10 leader, it's good to be aware of a bolt in the crux that is kind of strenuous to clip, and the fall wouldn't be too pretty if you blew it with slack out. Good route, though.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Smarmacus Maximus (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: The fourth bolt, as you're starting into the roof, is a very cruxy clip and may be the crux itself. I found that a big right drop-knee made the difference. It takes a little extra patience on strenuous holds to get into the position, but it's worth it, because skipping the clip is not a good idea.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: D-Storm When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: I find Aleks' trolling mimicry of Sven the Great (Sven the Silent, these days) to be mostly laborious and sometimes mildly amusing. Me thinks his humor would be better if he stopped trying so hard to be like Sven and came up with original material. Rifle is full of righteous bros? That's an age-old cliche. Any righteous bros you might meet are generally the people who are passing through and not the regulars, as our egos are continuously crushed by 17-year-old girls who float up our 5.14 routes ... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Wild Thing (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: What makes this amazing route even more exhilarating is climbing above the anchor to top out the boulder! It might be a little dirty on the slopers, but, man, I don't find many routes where I can do that. What a great overall experience in one little sport route.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : The Great Cornholio (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: 16 draws are needed if you clip all the bolts, including the anchor, which consists of one open-shut and a closed shut. I thought I did a good job using extendable runners and still had a hard time pulling slack to clip the anchor, so be ready for that. The finish is great, though. If you're up for excitement, I recommend it.

This route climbs different from most Rifle routes of a similar grade. It has some very technical slab climbing between the roofs and the sequences are... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Call the Cops (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: "Serpentine" on the Anti-Phil Wall is a good warmup for this one. Tech-nasty stuff. The crux for me revolved around a thin crimp I had to hold onto forever while I moved my feet around just so, and there was a thin, committing deadpoint to reach a good edge near the anchors. Maybe it's 13a. I could also see how the original grade was 12c. Hard to rate these kind of routes.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Serpentine (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Are you trad and bad? Then this sport route is for you! If you enjoy runouts above rusty quarter-inchers, slippery underclings, monos, dyons, and finger locks, you will enjoy the aptly named "Serpentine." I cursed as all hell the first two tries, scared for my ankles. I swore it was a pile if there ever was one, but I can't stop spraying about it now. It's so good in fact, that it's two stars now that I've done it and you, most likely, have not. I was oh-so tempted to give this one 12d, after ge... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Vision Thing (5.13a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: Honestly, you don't even need pads for the kneebars. I enjoyed the route in a pair of Carhartt‎s.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Das Fruit Machine (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: I overlooked this route for a long time because of its scruffy appearance. It's fun! The movement is great, and while sharp and a little unpleasant through the first roof, the quality improves all the way to the top. I particularly enjoyed the last boulder problem, which tests your fitness because there are no good footholds that allow you to shake out for very long while hanging from the jug crack.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Family Unit (5.11d)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: No, James. The direct start was added by Darek Krol a couple years ago and checks in at 12b. I found the sequence to be rather unpleasant and shoulder intensive, but maybe I missed something. The roof is really fun. Tape the base of your left pinky to protect it from a sharp finger lock....


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : The Butterfly Effect (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, the rock quality and movement is solid all the way to the anchors!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Carnivore (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Since it doesn't look like the author's description is coming any time soon, I'll chip in. This route is on great stone with fun pocket pulling to get you warmed up through the first four bolts or so, where you reach a small ledge and the real climbing begins. Sustained, steepening rock culminates in a nice pump as you jog up some fun crimps, pinches, and sidepulls (don't dally in any one spot too long). The climbing up to a big jug rest below the looming roof is about 11d/12a. Now for the clima... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Free Hallucinogen Wall (5.13 R)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the great description, HK. Congrats on your recent weekend of crushing in the Black!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Qualgeist (5.12b R)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: Fully agree with your descriptions on the second pitch, Madaleine – nice send! The route has bolts, but this rig ain't no sport climb. As for the top pitches, be ready for lots of wandering, heady 5.10+; the 5.11 finger crack at the end is awesome except for two bush cruxes in it. Overall, this route is all about spice. There wasn't a single pitch that seemed straightforward. This is a huge step above Trilogy, which my partner and I hiked in the rain a couple weeks ago. Oh, and once a... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Trilogy (5.12a R)
By: D-Storm When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: +1 for Chris Kalous' beta on finishing left. That little 5.10 crack to the ledge is really good. The topo Chris posted is also impressively accurate, right down to the bush drawn above the crux on pitch 4. As for my 11d rating, this was the first "5.12" I've done in the Black, so I don't have much to compare this one to, but I expected the grade to feel harder. Time will tell.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11-)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This was the first desert OW I led, Pat, so you may have a valid point on the 5.10 grade. Perhaps mid-5.10 is more fair? I'd have to revisit the route to say more confidently. Now that I think of it, the short crux on this one is probably no harder than Yosemite's "Generator Crack" (10c).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Jones-in (5.12-)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: I believe this route and Tenderloins were both put up by Steve Hong, and I thought it was interesting that the plaque at the base of this route reads, "11+/12-" and the one under Tenderloins gets a flat "11+" which is the opposite of current consensus (Tenderloins is the harder route). Hong must have had some large fingers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Conrad Rock : ... : Heart of Darkness (5.11a)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: It kind of adds another little crux – keeping it more solid at 11a – if you mantel out at the top. I suspect many people clip the chains while hanging from the flake at the lip. Fair enough, it's technically still a send, but you're missing out on the final crux – and punting on J-Tree style – if you don't top out. There's something really satisfying when you find yourself suddenly out of the darkness, basking in the glow of a desert sunset.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Did this on my first full day in J-Tree – even for people leading much harder than 5.8, this friction route is a great way to get your head in the game for many other routes there. And it's just a beautiful outing. Finish the day with Space Mountain and a tour of the Oyster Bar area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Space Mountain (5.10b)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This thing was a wild onsight ride! Very memorable. I felt like the grade was old school – no move is harder than 10a, but it seemed pretty sustained at the grade, and it certainly requires more mental savvy than usual for 10a. By modern standards it might be more like 10+/11-, but I realize this is J-Tree. I make this comment more to warn new 5.10 leaders considering this route. Two ropes would make it less stressful.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ PG13)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Re: "The move out onto the upper crack is nicely protected with a solid #4 BD micro nut." That was not the case for me, but the wire on my #4 BD micro nut was bent, so that may have affected its ability to seat well. Fortunately, you're on a big ledge at that point so you can take your time. I also recommend bringing a long sling to tie off the chicken head there; I was glad to have it since I ended up running it out after not finding any worthwhile gear at the first pod in... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Knapping With The Alien (5.12-)
By: D-Storm When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: The route is well bolted – the bolts are exactly where you need them and where the best clipping stances are – but I thought the second clip was kind of dicey. It's sort of mid-crux and you're far enough up and right of the first bolt that you could have a nasty fall onto the ledge if a foot slipped and your core strength gave out. Heads up for anyone unsure about leading the grade.

@ Timothy regarding the grade: V4 equates to 12a in most V-scale conversion tables I have seen. V3 is 11+, V2 i... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : The Slaughter House (5.10+)
By: D-Storm When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Total classic Creek climbing on this one. Excellent rock from bottom to top. I can see where the 5.10+ grade comes from, but I wouldn't recommend this to a 5.10 leader unless he or she was trying to break into 5.11. There are stances between each section, but the sections are long, pumpy and intimidating.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Namaste (5.11d)
By: D-Storm When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Jarthur, it seems no one is debating how good it is, just the grade, and the importance of it is this: As a classic route that stands out, it will be climbed by a lot of different people, thereby becoming a benchmark for the grade by default. More and more climbers may very well say, "Namaste is 12a, and this is other route is harder, so ..." and that is how grades continue to inflate. Let's enjoy quality routes, for sure, but also be honest about our opinions on difficulty. I haven't touched th... more >>


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