REI Community
search


Member Since: Aug 26, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact CritConrad

Point Rank: # 2,941
Total Points: 195

2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has CritConrad been climbing?










Contributions


All 615 | Routes 15 | Areas 1 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 23 | Stars 450 | Ratings 58
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Just Say Yes (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Jun 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This one seems bolted silly. First couple bolts are fine, but getting from the 3rd to the 4th seems poorly bolted. There is a perfect stance when you're already looking at a slightly nasty fall, but instead you need to run it out for maybe 3 more very tenuous moves to clip. Then the rest of the route has a bolt like every 4 or 5 feet.

Also, the anchor has been updated and is in good shape


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Northern Lights (5.11d)
By: CritConrad When: Jun 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I will agree with matt and say this thing is super sandbagged. I think it could be hard even for 12a! Felt harder than full court press which I got on same day. Also, FWIW everything thinks Just Say Yes is quite hard at 12a so it might not be the best benchmark of the grade in the gorge.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (4) Mud Pile : Marsupials Traverse (5.8 R)
By: CritConrad When: Jun 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This whole thing was significantly more solid that my partner and I expected. I was expecting a horror show of choss and garbage. It is all pretty solid save a few holds over the course of the entire traverse.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Mid-Life Celebration (5.11c)
By: CritConrad When: Jun 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Man, if it wasn't for the heinous standout crux down low after the hold broke, this thing would be one of my favorite sport routes in the gorge. Certainly 12a at least now but just because of the bottom. The middle column is super quality and the roof pull at the end is really fun!


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Baby fit (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Jun 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This thing felt hard at first, but it was able to be learned down. Once I sent I felt it was easier. Certainly not the 11c that is listed in the guidebook as the route now goes straight through its own independent crux instead of through Pet Cemetery. I'll say soft 12a in hopes that it will see more traffic


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Rising Star (5.10b)
By: CritConrad When: Jun 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I as well experienced the horrible rope drag. Had I seen the comment before climbing the route I would have at least put more runners on gear below and be smarter about placements. Really good route though!


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Neutron Star (5.12-)
By: CritConrad When: May 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Gear beta alert. Make sure your gear in between the first and 2nd bolts is good, the crack is quite flaring but I was able to fidget two pieces in that feature. Also, a green C3 and a blue ball nut protect the final moves quite well.


Location: Utah : Saint George : Welcome Springs : The Wailing Wall : Unknown Renown (5.11d)
By: CritConrad When: Apr 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Don't be deterred by lack of traffic or chalk on this one. It is really good and stays engaging the whole way!


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : El Sancho (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This thing is actually pretty ok. The rock is solid and the moves are sustained and fairly sequential. We did blasphemy and I hung a long draw at the 4th bolt and was very happy about it. There is a big jug to clip low from, but if you fell getting to it the ground would be a little close for comfort. Also an easy top rope from blasphemy.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Churning in the Ozone (5.13b)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Today I broke the hold off the last crux lockoff at the last bolt on ozone. It was a nice flat incut crimper and now it is definitely worse, but the move still goes the same way. If this thing didn't feel like 13c before, it is definitely coming closer to that now!


Location: California : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: CritConrad When: Aug 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: There is a very large loose block on quite literally the last moves of the route on top of pitch 8.
In this photo mountainproject.com/v/10837312... it is the block that the rope is running over. It flexed easily with very little effort


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Lost Souls (5.9)
By: CritConrad When: Aug 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The anchor for this climb is in a REALLY bad location. Apart from that detracting factor I think it is a really good 5.9 in the gorge. Fun off-fingers crack up high


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Prometheus (5.10c)
By: CritConrad When: Aug 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This now has a new anchor with fixed steel biners right at the top of the route. no big runout to a nasty anchor any more.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (2) Llama Wall : Junkshow (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Name is "Junkshow" 5.12b
equipped by Tedd Thompson. not sure if he got the FA


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : North 40 : Samurai (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: May 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Really attractive route. I was getting baffled/frustrated at the crux until I found the magic foot. Turns it into something like a V5 followed by funky 11- climbing to the chains


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Scene of the Crime (5.13b)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Everybody seems to talk about how heinous the mono move on this route is. I personally thought that move was the easiest of the crux sections. The start is definitely the hardest moves but there is a section up higher moving into and out of a diagonal undercling that spit me off many times from the ground.

Also, the book mentions going out left is bad style and I completely disagree. Even for someone tall it would be a massive move and would definitely make it 13c.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Steins Pillar : West Face Route (5.10d or 5... (5.10d)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pitch 1 starts off not super great but the dihedral above is amazing. Sustained, and good stone with tons of gear if you have it. I sewed that thing up! we linked it with pitch 2 and even with lots of runners I was feeling the rope. Pitch three started off amazingly fun and then after the ramp quickly turned to garbage and leaves you at possibly the worst belay I've ever spent time at! pitch 4 starts off with some big exposure, loose flakes, and questionable gear. Once the bolt is clipped th... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Looney Binge (5.12c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'd love to chime in about this route. It's something I've looked at for about 4 years and always walked past. It was different than my expectations in a few ways.
1) the crux at the 2nd bolt felt WAY harder than I was expecting. To me they were hands down the hardest moves of the route and I was stumped for longer than I care to admit.

2) This route is way more of a traverse than I realized. The pics are a little deceiving in that it looks like it is a TOTALLY horizontal flake crack in a... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Dr Claw (5.11d)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: one more vote for a non-contrived crux. This route was really a lot of fun. I even wished the "tenuous slab" up top gave you a little more run for your money


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Tiananmen Square (5.10c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I had fun on this route, but I really can't get behind the idea of having almost a 30 foot runout while only being about 30 feet off the ground. Sure, it's easy but I found the gap between bolts 3 and 4 unnecessary.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - River Face : Time To Power (5.12c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This thing is seeing a lot of traffic now with having fixed draws on the upper bit. The difficulties are fairly discontinuous but I think the crux is more like a stout V5 boulder problem and way harder than heinous. The jugs on the upper headwall are so much fun! Also,I was very comfortable skipping the crux bolt (it only increases your fall by about 4 feet) as well as the bolt below the anchors


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (y) The Zoo
By: CritConrad When: Sep 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Here is a link to a MUCH better way to get to the zoo. The parking area is seasonally open due to a road closure, but access is normally easy from skull hollow. You can even bring mountain bikes and be there in 10 minutes!

hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtYXAt...


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cry of the Poor (5.11a)
By: CritConrad When: Aug 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route really intimidated me for a long time since you really can't see much gear from below. After finally getting on it, there really is good gear and lots of it! Doubles from a green C3 to .75 camalot with a set of nuts offered me a lot more gear than I needed.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : The Struggle Within (5.11d)
By: CritConrad When: Jan 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'll chime in with a few thoughts on this route after doing it today. I feel like we underestimated how long it was going to take. the pitches are relatively long and the climbing is sustained making every pitch take just a little longer.

I felt that the 4th pitch (11d) was a little sandbagged and could possibly get 12a. a hard roof move then i kept whipping off above there cause hands and feet kept breaking. This one still has a good bit of choss.

We decided to do one more pitch to reac... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Freebase (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: While belaying a friend on this I found that with having the 1st bolt clipped, it was very hard to give a soft catch. As max was saying, any fall results in a decent sized whipper and the first bolt is weirdly positioned only a few feet above you from where you belay. We found softer catches were possible by stick clipping the second bolt. If you think that is lame, then expect somewhat of a hard catch, or just send the route!


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About