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Member Since: Sep 5, 2012
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Crimper E6

Point Rank: # 153
Total Points: 3,290

69 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Crimper E6 been climbing?










Contributions


All 896 | Routes 127 | Areas 31 | Photos 400 | Page Improvements | Comments 102 | Posts 31 | Stars 205 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Needle and Squaretops : Minerva's Temple
By: Crimper E6 When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: BE WARNED! savage approach, after the sugarloaf trail split 1.5hrs or so, it deteriorates to steep dirt with a few cairns. After reaching Minervas Temple, there basically is no path and just thickets of thorny bushes as you cross multiple boulder choked drainage channels. It took us 5 1/2 hrs to reach the base of Caribiner crack!
(Maybe it would be better in spring or winter if the flora ever die down?)
Good luck!


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth Decay (5.11+)
By: Crimper E6 When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: i replaced the 3rd bolt on the 1st pitch with 10mm ss fixe (crux is here)
Also, new anchors at the end of the 1st pitch. Instead of the hanging belay after turning the corner,(shit old bolts) continue to mother of all ledges. Then consider trying my new link up to tooth fairy!


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : Left Eyebrow (5.7 R)
By: Crimper E6 When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: for sure the cross over route is the way to go, the best bits of both routes


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Crimper E6 When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: pretty sure we were on the right route, its our 3rd time at sugarloaf. we had the topos and a couple of out of print guides. I found all the mentioned bolts etc. This particular part was just me traversing a bit higher than i should because the rock looked better quality and its a bit more direct to the tree. I guess im just used to 4star routes being like the ones in tuolume meadows etc so it was a bit disappointing!


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Techweenie (5.11+)
By: Crimper E6 When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: A gift! - harder 11a's in Cali for sure ;)


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : To Bolt on Lead or Not to B... (5.11+ PG13)
By: Crimper E6 When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: super fun, nails crux, way harder than the other 5.11s here


Location: California : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Love Muffin (5.12a)
By: Crimper E6 When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: new glueins + new lower offs added.

Bolts have been respaced for the onsight. Be solid on the 3rd clip and dont bring a muppet belayer!

The bolts and anchors are solid 6" meaty things so feel free to log some air time...


Location: California : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Fashion Victim (5.11a/b)
By: Crimper E6 When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: new glueins for the lower half. (1st 3 bolts)

I couldnt remove the original 1st expansion bolt


Location: California : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Gay Naval Twink Chemsex Par... (5.10a)
By: Crimper E6 When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: in honor of Michael, we are proud of your service son ;)


Location: California : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Main Wall Cave Routes
By: Crimper E6 When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: its a training anchor, the bolts arnt rated for ropesolo..


Location: California : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : Poison Path Hidden Gym (5.10b)
By: Crimper E6 When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: For a less stressful 1st clip, bridge up the gully on the L and preclip.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Crack A No Go (5.10a)
By: Crimper E6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: best to lower off the 1st anchor, the top half is choss with a death block waiting to crush your belayer


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Escargot (5.11a)
By: Crimper E6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: mostly death bolts and ++ dodgy anchor, would be suicide to TR


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Poly Grip (5.11)
By: Crimper E6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: death bolts


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : New Blood (5.12a)
By: Crimper E6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: death bolts


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Desiderata (5.10b)
By: Crimper E6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: anchors need replacing, very dangerous


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Crimper E6 When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: on the list!


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk : Bigfoot's Dick (5.10b)
By: Crimper E6 When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: 5.9+? F6a, good line. better than it looks


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Visions Wall : Karma-Kazi (5.11a)
By: Crimper E6 When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: easy to bypass the crux by going R at the 1st bolt


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
By: Crimper E6 When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Best to reach this area from the walk around from Boardwalk (the guidebook doesnt make this clear) slightly a pain in the arse to get to and belay etc.. DEFINITELY BRING A HELMET!

Upper wall routes looked amazing, unfortunately not the purity of line i was hoping for, trying too hard to force a line and the bolt positions reflected this. Nice rock thou, good for a change of scenery, but I preferred the visions wall++


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk : Girly Man (5.9-)
By: Crimper E6 When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: aesthetic line


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Moonstone Beach
By: Crimper E6 When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: The biggest impact on the beach is all the annoying dogs and their shite!


Location: California : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Bull Dog Rock : Bull Dog Direct (5.10+)
By: Crimper E6 When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Both anchors are pretty old and rubbish IMO! Also a one star route not 3! what is it with the over rating! Really, this is as good as the dyke route??


Location: California : Northeast California : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: Crimper E6 When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: I wanted to like this route so much more, given the high praise on this site, unfortunately only an average route.. one good pitch really. Sorry, this isn't a 4 star route compared to (Proper ) lovers leap /Yosemite so don't get too excited! I recommend spending the hideous hike/time driving to Tahoe!


Location: California : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Abstinence (5.9 PG13)
By: Crimper E6 When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Its possible to finish at the new anchors up and R for the full 5.9 tick!


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