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Member Since: Jan 28, 2012
Last Visit: Dec 22, 2017
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Cres Simpson
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Point Rank: # 21,785
Total Points: 10

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Cres Simpson been climbing?


All 102 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 4 | Stars 55 | Ratings 30

Contributed Comments


Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > Sun Wall > Titties & Beer (aka "World... (5.10a)
By: Cres Simpson When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: Great climb overall -- the mental and physical crux for me were the start of P2. I placed a very marginal .4 C4 before gaining the crack but I'm not sure it would have held a fall. Falling while getting into the crack would be an ankle breaker on the slab below and the moves felt 9+. The crack is bomber and protects well - super cruisy with even modest hand jamming technique, 8+ or so.

"The move" felt easier than expected (and I'm not tall - 5'10") - 8+ or maybe 9 - and was a very well prote... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The Diedre Area > Diedre (5.10a)
By: Cres Simpson When: Sep 10, 2017

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Comments: Climbed today after some rain early in the weekend - P1/P3 ended up being very wet. P3 was soaked and honestly seemed harder than the "crux" P2 - it's a 2-3 move wonder albeit pumpy when you're hanging out trying to figure out the sequence. P5 was beautiful and as others have said climbed much easier than it looked. The hardest move on P5 is the final bulge (not the overhang visible from the belay) - practice those handjams!

Location: Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North > Slip Stream (5.7+)
By: Cres Simpson When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: The bottom part of this climb is pump-y to protect which was very surprising for a 5.6 -- that said, I don't think the moves actually go at any harder than 5.7 if you're not pumping out trying to place gear.

Still agree with above -- not a good choice for a novice leader.

Location: Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North > More Fun with Dick and Jane (5.9-)
By: Cres Simpson When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: So a word of warning--

I got on this climb this past Sunday (11/3) and took a fall in the bottom flake section when I lost my footing on the lieback in the beginning. I had placed a single very good (to my assessment) #1 C4 shortly before I fell. My #1 managed to pry off a 12"x6"x4" piece of rock off the bottom of the flake and I decked from about 12ft off the ground. The flake was obviously rotten looking at where it broke (there is a line of rotten rock on the inside of the flake) but the roc... more >>

Location: North Carolina > Laurel Knob > Seconds (5.8+)
By: Cres Simpson When: Dec 16, 2012

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Comments: Agree with Ryan Williams' excellent review of the route.

As far as safety goes, this route probably gets a PG-13 rating anywhere else but by North Carolina standards it's well protected. Biggest runouts were probably 25-30 feet on P4 and P5. I'd say be reasonably comfortable at the grade as a 50' fall on slab would be exfoliating to say the least. Crux portions were extremely well protected.

For those who cut their teeth on NC slab at Looking Glass (as I did), Seconds is definitely a totally ... more >>

Location: Alabama > Sand Rock > The Pinnacle > Pin Chimney (5.8+)
By: Cres Simpson When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: Awesome trad route and my favorite trad lead at SR (though I haven't built up the nerve to lead Comfortably Numb yet). I think I actually started halfway between the direct start and the true start -- it's slightly overhung but on huge jugs and protects extremely well with a slung horn about 10' off the deck. From there it's smooth sailing!

I did not clip the fixed pin in the chimney as it looked pretty manky, but there's ample pro, albeit finicky. I had some large tricams with me (grey and gre... more >>

Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater > The Daddy (5.6)
By: Cres Simpson When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Did the Daddy, the Mummy, and the Prow back-to-back on Sunday (10/14). It was a bit overcast but other than that amazing weather and an absolutely awesome day of climbing.

I decided to do the 5.8 direct variation of P3 since I had been on it before and traversing the ledge seemed less fun. It's really only 2-3 moves of well-protected 5.8 and then it becomes easy 5.5 to the P3 belay. That said, there wasn't any pro for me above the 5.8 section, so be careful not to misstep and fall close to the ... more >>

Location: Alabama > Palisades Park
By: Cres Simpson When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: One of the few places that seems to offer tolerable climbing "out of season" (aka deep summer) in AL. The cliffline gives shade from morning through early afternoon and there's plentiful access to water from the top of the cliff.

As a heads up, the park office doesn't open until 9am to sell permits -- though we did manage to find an employee who doesn't normally work the office who was willing to open it up for us before the ranger got there. We were only charged $2, but that may reflect inexpe... more >>

Location: Alabama > Palisades Park > Cashmere (5.8-)
By: Cres Simpson When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: Bolted anchors now at the top.

Location: Alabama > Palisades Park > Tim's Route (5.10a)
By: Cres Simpson When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route with lots of balance-y moves on thin holds. Want to reiterate what the description says though -- there's basically no pro through the first 15 feet which is very thin (imho, the crux of the climb). Definitely want a pad and a spotter if leading this one to protect against groundfall.

Location: Alabama > Sand Rock > Holiday Block > Oyster (5.10a)
By: Cres Simpson When: Jan 28, 2012

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Comments: Great late afternoon climb in cooler weather -- this route gets sun all afternoon.

More 5.8+/5.9ish except for pulling the roof at the top, which felt like a solid 10a move.

Definitely an underrated Sand Rock route -- great views from the top and a solid climb.

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