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Member Since: Sep 30, 2001
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
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Craig Quincy
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Point Rank: # 2,503
Total Points: 235

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 244 | Routes 10 | Areas 9 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 121 | Stars 28 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Craig Quincy When: May 24, 2007

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Comments: I don't like the idea of putting warning signs along the trails. There's just way too much dangerous stuff in Eldo to label. However, if people want to go that route, we'd need a sign at the base of Green Spur that says "Watch out for falling Craigs and rocks". Oh yeah, and one at the base of Wind Ridge that says the same thing. Come to think of it, maybe I'm the one that needs the sign.

The placement of the WI anchors is a little awkward, but I doubt if moving them would solve these lowerin... more >>


Location: Colorado : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Craig Quincy When: May 22, 2007

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Comments: How do you propose hanging such tags?

The method I've seen which works well is to put the tags on a nylon dog collar and then put the collar on a dog with a medium build and long taill. Beagles and Blue Healers are suitable breeds. Then tie a prussik on the dog's tail and simply clip the prussik to the anchor with a locking caribiner.

Voila. :-)


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.11a R)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 24, 2006

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Comments: There are currently 4 pins on the upper "rotten band" traverse. They are obvious if you climb high enough. If you don't see them keep going up the corner. You pass at least 2 other spots where you could go left, but shouldn't.

T1.9 is my favorite long moderate in Eldo. The traversing finger crack pitch off the upper ramp is spectacular.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Signs of Life (5.11b)
By: Craig Quincy When: May 19, 2006

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Comments: The first hanger is currently in situ.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Craig Quincy When: Apr 11, 2006

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Comments: Tony, I can not take your comment seriously given that Adam was up there and saw the tree lifting up and the rock moving. Better safe than sorry.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 22, 2005

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Comments: Stellar climb. Be prepared to route find to stay on the path of least resistance. I got confused by the copious beta provided here and just went where it looked best.

Descent : You need two ropes to do the new bolted rappels. We did one rap into the notch, a 1/4 rope length of scrambling to get on the ledge with the new bolts and then 3 rappels to the ground. The last rap has a nasty knot eating notch, so you will want to position your knot below that after you rappel over it.

Thanks to... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 22, 2005

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Comments: The crux offwidth is a little spicy, but there's good gear at your feet when you bust the moves. A big cam is fairly useless. My partner pull off a large block following the OW which landed on the belay, so future parties might want to be wary at the first overlap.

There are new bolted anchors down the back side (to the North, not to the West). A single rope gets you down. There are 2 raps down the spire, then one more at the end of the gully.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : ... : The Ridge (5.8)
By: Craig Quincy When: Aug 14, 2005

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Comments: This route reminded me of an outing in the [Cascades]. The rock is absent of cracks except where the rock has fractured. It's not the loveable granite found in RMNP, Lumpy or BoCan.

I attempted to follow the path of least resistance on pitch one and followed the same path outlined in Ivan's photo below. It's definitely a little sketchy after the overlap with a runout, a couple loose holds and shakey RP's for protection after lauching up the left facing corner. All the bad things converge at... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Oct 12, 2004

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Comments: The loose block at the end of pitch one is still there as of 10/10/2004 and is moving quite easily. Trundling it would be a little dubious without some coordination given all the activity at the Riviera and the road below.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Off Balanced Rock : Northeast Chimney (5.7 R)
By: Craig Quincy When: Mar 17, 2004

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Comments: This is a good route, but not a great route. The first pitch is pretty mungey, but the second pitch makes up for it. I wouldn't recommend this for a 5.7 leader unless I didn't like them. It's definitely awkward with bad pro until you get up into the chimney proper. The supertopo says a rack isn't necessary on the second pitch, but that seems like bad advice. There's a piece or two of marginal gear to be had before getting in the chimney, once inside tunnelling about 15 feet in yields a crack... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dom Perignon (5.9)
By: Craig Quincy When: Dec 9, 2003

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Comments: Not as bad as it looks.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Clipboard (5.11a/b)
By: Craig Quincy When: Dec 9, 2003

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Comments: This is a nice face climb, but isn't harder than 5.11a.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Aid Roof (C1)
By: Craig Quincy When: Nov 29, 2003

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Comments: The left hand crack goes at A2+ with Lost Arrows and Angles or can be done cleanly at C3 wtih Lowe Balls and small TCUs. It's definitely a notch up in difficulty from the right hand crack and quite fun.I believe the A4 branches off the left hand line and certainly appears to be dicey.

As a word of encouragement, if you can aid the C1 roof without clipping the bolts and get up CCC in under a couple hours, you probably have the necessary aid skills to do a starter big wall in Zion or Yosemite.... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Craig Quincy When: Nov 5, 2003

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Comments: Replacing a fallen out pin with a bolt in Eldo seems like sacrilege. I wish I had a dollar for every X on a topo that now requires crafty RP and ball-nut work to keep fear in check. There are a number of examples - the second pitch of C'est La Vie, the first pitch of [Practice Climb 101], etc. Even though the fixed hardware rules allow for replacing the pins, in most cases, they remain missing. Modern gear makes the leads possible and other decent gear is nearby, so what is really required i... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Keyhole Flake (5.10)
By: Craig Quincy When: Oct 19, 2003

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Comments: Some fist side gear is in order whether that's a #4 friend, a #4 camalot or a #3 - #3.5 camalot. A couple in that size might even be a good idea. Both the Indian Creek Climbs guide book and the Super Topo from Rock and Ice list the rack as only up to #2.5 friend. This is definitely an error.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 12, 2003

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Comments: After the crux on pitch one there are some gear placements to be had that reduce the 5.8 runout to the ramp/ledge where the Backtalk anchors are located. I believe this must have been the site of the fixed pin because the slots look like pin scars to me. Anyways, after doing the crux moves and getting back on your feet and off your arms, there is a small horizontal crack that takes a #1 and #2 ball nut and a #00 or #0 TCU. An RP could also be placed where the TCU goes.... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Grand Traverse (5.10c)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 4, 2003

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Comments: It's also possible to climb the first half of pitch one in the above description. At this point there are some threaded slings and a fixed stopper. Not the best rap anchor in the world, so we backed it up while climbing and only used it for getting down. I'd say it's about 5.8 or so.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Piton Perch (5.6)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 4, 2003

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Comments: I'd recommend bringing several long slings to help with protection [opportunities]. At the beginning I burrowed underneath the large chockstone and developed wicked rope drag. To cure the problem, I went off belay on top of the chockstone and pulled all the rope through and tossed it back to my belayer. Perhaps you're supposed to go on the other side of the intital chockstone to prevent these problems.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Plotinus (5.10)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 25, 2003

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Comments: In reference to "...despite needing a little weeding" , I give you this:

When the farmer cleans out his ditches, I mourn the loss of many a flower which he calls a weed. -Henry David Throeau


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Scientist (5.11a/b)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: Slab-a-licious! Sticking in the gear in between the 2 and 3rd bolts is half the fun and quite welcome. Watch out for the loose rocks on the ledge when pulling the rope.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Joint Venture (5.11a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: If you're thinking of linking up the first part of Joint Venture with Cannabis Sportiva, don't! It's certainly possibly with long slings, but it's not worth the risk to your belayer. There are some gnarly loose blocks in between the two routes that you must traverse across.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination (5.11b)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 30, 2003

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Comments: After traversing left on the ramp at the start of pitch one, the first set of bolts encountered appears to be a new route and harder than 11b. Divination is one more set of bolts to the left. Does anyone have details on this other route that's between Divination and Earth Voyage?


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 23, 2003

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Comments: There is only a single bolt in the chimney before the roof on P2. It's new and adequate for an emergency retreat , but shouldn't be counted on as a descent anchor if things go badly at the roof. This would require down climbing the slot and it would be easier to use 'dangle and thrash' A0 tactics to surmount the roof at that point.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wet Dream (5.12a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 20, 2003

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Comments: Using shoulder length slings before the first roof, at the end of the slab, and below the crux bulge helps to alleviate rope drag.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 17, 2003

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Comments: Will-This time of year the staying out of the sun is probably a more important factor. Given that, I'd say do Dessert Sheild since it's in the shade most of the day. Lunar Ecstacy, on the other hand, gets full sun. I believe the two are similar in difficulty, both are classics and you pretty much nailed the pros and cons.


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