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Member Since: Sep 13, 2005
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 3325 | Routes 79 | Areas 11 | Approach Trails | Photos 45 | Page Improvements | Comments 316 | Posts 1566 | Stars 1209 | Ratings 99
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington > Northeast Corner & Spokane > Spokane Area > Deep Creek > The Main Wall > ... > Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 1, 2017

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Comments: When 5.11- looks like 5.14+. Climb stronger, not harder my friends.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > The Gold Wall > ... > Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: Glad you guys got out


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Highway (88) > Woodfords Canyon > The Fortress > ... > Topographic Ocean (5.10+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 8, 2017

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Comments: Fun adventure!

Lots of finger/small pieces on this. Bring them! There’s enough protection points, but some of it would likely break out in a good fall.

I wouldn’t link pitches 3 and 4, at least not on the onsight. I’d wager you’re much more likely to be grimacing than grinning when you turn that lip to the anchors on pitch 4 if you try.


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Rainbow > Right Side > Dirty Deed (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 1, 2017

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Comments: 5.10b/c or 5.10c seemed reasonable to our party. We thought it could be called 5.10d at some places, if I'm going to honestly continue inflating. Short but pretty steep and sustained, it's no gimme. Seems like just a step below Aja (a nearby 5.10d). But grades are subjective, so it probably depends on your strengths. Maybe we're more calibrated to a Snowshed sense of grades, lol!

Good quality on this climb. It eats up .5 (purple camalots) and .75 (green camalots). Maybe a single 1&q... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Arrowhead Arete > Arrowhead Arête (5.8)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 8, 2017

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Comments: I won't quibble on the grade but would say this climb is far more effort than something like Serenity to Sons. The Supertopo guide says to be solid and confident at 5.9 and I would say that's a good start. An alpinesque adventure but with the constant "whoops" of the ranger mobiles below.


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > ... > Hair Lip (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 16, 2017

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Comments: It's a fine piece of stone, I don't see the bomb drama. Just because it isn't maximum stars in a rich area doesn't make it a bad climb. I did what I guess is the 5.11- variation. The rock is fine, it just isn't railed 10x a day like some other lines, and maybe a bolt update would serve it well from the quarter inchers. The moves are fun and testy if you can somehow weather the ego slaps dealt here.


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > ... > Reductio ad absurdum (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 29, 2017

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Comments: I heard Max Jones soloed this BITD. Come clean up your retro job, punk!


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > Lower Buttress > Black Opal (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: Pro felt okay without nuts or offsets, but I had to work at it a little. I doubled up where I could and was more concerned with the gear walking in the flare than if it was good when I placed it. So, yeah, that kind of route. The first slash takes a #4 c4, if you want to rack the boat anchor. I found the crux to be just above the slashes. Cool, flaring crack workouts on this face.

The route top ropes perfectly with a 70m rope, so it's more like a 115' or so pitch length.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 25, 2017

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Comments: Tyson wins, LOL!


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > The Emeralds > The Benches > ... > The Kreutzer (5.6)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: The FA accusations are out of line. It's easy to say it was done before, but it could just have easily been overlooked. Somebody putting up 5.11+ trad isn't necessarily interested in what was likely a moss-covered staircase.

My beef with the route is it's ho hum, a bit awkward, and the traversing nature requires you either have somebody follow to clean or that you clean the first couple draws of the anchors, then climb the 5.9 to the right and clean the rest (as we did). I just clim... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Leaning Tower Area > Fifi Buttress > Center of the Universe (5.11-)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: Currently, as of 9/24/2016, there are no fixed lines for the rappel. The first two raps from the ledge link with a 70m, but the next two do not. It might be nice not to rap down on a party from the approach ledge as was done to us, but it wasn't that big a deal at the time. There is plenty of loose stuff from that ledge though, so it could easily go bad and that would suck.

A #5 was useful for the 5.10a squeeze/ow.

Overall, another very enjoyable edition to Fifi Buttress. Tim Goodson'... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > The Texas Wall / West Velve... > ... > Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Paging Tommy Caldwell: TC PROS DON'T WORK IN SEAMS!!!!111 ABORT TEH MISSIONZ!!!


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... > Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... > The Gold Wall > Hole in the Wall (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: This climb was also one of our party's favorites. It has a bit of graininess to it but nothing that detracts from the climbing. I placed a couple small finger-sized pieces but that was about it. They were kind of nice down low but probably not mandatory but the book said pro to 2" so I took a bit of rack with me.


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... > Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... > The Gold Wall > Tastes Great (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: This sounds exactly like the climb the Mammoth area guidebook calls Proud Arete?

A great climb nonetheless with fun crack moves and great, steep face climbing.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Mariuolumne Area > Drug Dome > Gram (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: Our party thought the crux of the first pitch was around the 1" crack that runs through the roof. The climbing above the OZ anchors just didn't seem that hard, more like watch your feet and grab the jugs and crimps.

The second pitch was much easier, but it was nice to have a pitch not as scrunched up and pumpy as the first.

We did a third pitch at the closer of the two suggested intermediate belays in the Supertopo. With some judicious slinging, rope drag was no problem. The walk off... more >>


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > Main Wall > Eeyore's Enigma (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: A #5 BD cam is nice for the chimney belay after the second pitch.

Pitch two is the business! I haven't worked that hard for 5.10a in a while. When you get squeeze chimney/o-dub action going on it gets thug nasty fast.

The crux noted in the description went pretty well with some wide hands, some fists, and careful stemming and chimneying with the crux coming around the first corner to the offwidth that leads up to the squeeze roof. I walked/leap frogged two #4 camalots without much difficul... more >>


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > Main Wall > North Country (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 6, 2016

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Comments: Well, I finally got on the first two pitches and I would like to nominate Salamanizer's route description one of the most hilarious on mp.com. I chuckled as I reviewed it en route. And yet I somehow missed the precarious tip toe traverse and believe I wound up at the Cheap Shot anchor ledge?

Never to fear, I was able to traverse over using a good hand rail a bit down and right of the Cheap Shot anchors, clip a bolt mid-traverse and then up to the original anchors. I clipped the 2nd pitch an... more >>


Location: California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge > Incredible Hulk > Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: Venturi Effect anchors from Red Dihedral is standard? For Positive Vibrations, that is the case, but I'll be a summit endorsing ass pimple and say that if you're doing Red Dihedral, the birthing canal pitch to the summit register is well worth doing. It's not that bad to descend via the single rap and talus scramble down the south gully. It's also fairly in line with the rest of the route compared to two pitches of traversing. But whatever gets you down, that's a personal cho... more >>


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > East Wall > Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I was going to say that this route is just a smidgen less good than it's more famous eponymous neighbor (The Line), but that's not true. It's better. You don't have the line of folks lining up for The Line on this one.

It looks a bit mungy from the start, but the small flora and some moss don't actually impact where the climbing is at. But, sure if you like your climbs shaved bare, I can understand your aversion to the 70s style bush you might find on this route.

It's... more >>


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > Dear John Buttress > Tag Team (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: The climbing is not awful and is actually interesting, but there's a rope eating crack at the end of the traverse out of that roof that would seem to require more protection engineering than this route is really worth.


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > OJ Buttress > Cheesy Puff (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: I was told by one of the FA's this was 5.9! Sandbagged again!

A high speed video of me dancing onto and off the crux from the ledge would be highly amusing. That was a solid 15-20 minutes of whining.


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > OJ Buttress > White Bronco (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Like that infamous news day, the White Bronco proved to be an exciting diversion.

The start gave me an adrenaline goose that kept on giving all the way up this climb, which is fairly sustained and thoughtful all the way to the anchors.

I'm hesitant taking the 5.11b onsight on this rig, I think the grade may be more in the 5.10d to 5.11a range but that will await consensus. Honestly, I was so worked up for the initial roof moves, I couldn't be relied on for an accurate grade.

A couple small/me... more >>


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > OJ Buttress > Slow Speed Chase (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Regarding pitch 1 only, I didn't move left around the corner at the bulge for the more oblique/easier approach. It was, ah, how do you say, direct? Direttisimo? My tunnel vision added some oomph but it was sorta fun this way with some stemming and sloper sidepull mojo. The patina of the rock is very interesting, Mr. Wolfe was kind of enough to explain that it was probably a deposit of limestone seeping onto and covering the rock. It takes a minute to get used to this change in texture, but i... more >>


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > ... > Break it Out (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: I may need to amend the anchor situation I posted in the description if nobody fills me in, but I just climbed this yesterday and we didn't find the anchors this time (I followed). So either they have been yanked or we just suck. I can say that there are anchors to the right for Ice Pirates (not a good option at all - actually directly level with and to the right of where you do the final mantle) and Black Magic (a better option but you really need to protect from the pendulum) but you ... more >>


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > ... > Black Magic (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: The pins may have pulled, I didn't see them. Very cool stem climbing on Tuolomne-esque pebbles with some jamming thrown in. It is hard to tell from below but it protects very well with small cams in the dihedral.

I came out a little moss sprinkled at the end, but besides a little seep at the bottom, this line climbs great. Overall this North Star Wall area is deserving of more traffic from the 5.10 leader and boasts fun to classic climbs.


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