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Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready to top out....


Member Since: Sep 10, 2007
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Colin R

Point Rank: # 785
Total Points: 1,018
Last Year: 46
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colin R been climbing?










Contributions


All 661 | Routes 40 | Areas 6 | Photos 64 | Page Improvements | Comments 208 | Posts 89 | Stars 148 | Ratings 106
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : Cruxifixion (V5)
By: Colin R When: 12 hours ago

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Comments: Couple questions...

First - how is this V4 in any way shape or form? I mean, I understand grades are meant to be stiff at Calabogie but calling this V4 is just silly. Even compared to other V4's at Calabogie there is no way this is a V4.

Second - The hand hold out right is *not* off route (it is no further right than the right foot hold being used in the photo). I spoke to Jason about this and he said its fair game as they are quite hard to reach although he seemed somewhat... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : The Survivalist (V4 PG13)
By: Colin R When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: I've changed the grade to V4 to reflect current consensus and keep it in line with other climbs nearby of similar difficulty.


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : The Master Theorem (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Grade was originally V7 and the problem was called "The Theorem" but since then a key hold has broken forcing a harder bump. I am not totally ready to upgrade it to V8 though without more feedback. I "enhanced" the name to "Master Theorem" as I believe I did the first repeat since the broken hold and it is definitely harder now. If someone knows someone else who repeated it since the broken hold please let ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : Lady Slipper Wall : Niagro (5.12c)
By: Colin R When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Someone needs to go at this thing with a crow bar and knock off all the loose choss below the roof. There is a ton of it up there and it is dangerous, particularly for the belayer as the ramp/slab bounces the choss right back towards the belayers head/face. I knocked off a fair bit but there is a ton more. I recommend using a large brush too in order to get rid of the dirt. After the initial choss fest however the line becomes darn near immaculate on perfect limestone with a mixture of both powe... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : High Plains Drifter (V7)
By: Colin R When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: HPD is a benchmark (i.e. right on the money) for V7 given the majority of V7s I have done.

Period.

The End.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Cat's Ass Wall : Eye of the Cougar (5.12c)
By: Colin R When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Greg! Nice work you are doing...


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : Lady Slipper Wall : So! You Think You Know Good... (5.11d)
By: Colin R When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: Could be the best 11+ at Lion's Head. Really nice moves...


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : Gatineau Special (V6)
By: Colin R When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: I think this problem is a tad harder if you are tall due to the low sit start, ass-dragging involved. That said, this should be the benchmark V6 for the area IMO...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : New World Order (5.12a/b)
By: Colin R When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Chris I wasn't aware of the issues around permadraws - my apologies.

Stick clipping isn't an option on the third bolt to my knowledge.

It seems like the best solution is to climb the Doug Reed warmup to the right and place a longer draw when being lowered.

I still think the bolt is in a sketchy spot - that was my only real point. Others are free to disagree and this is sport climbing at the New so maybe we should all suck it up. Still though I would like to encourage people, even veterans lik... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : Val-David : ... : Brutus (V7+)
By: Colin R When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Downrated to V7-ish


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Jan 23, 2016

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Comments: Funny thing...

My spotter bailed on me to take that photo and I didn't know it until I was topping out. He was like "hold on let me grab some photos...You totally got it dude!". Then I had to top it out which probably wouldn't have mattered anyways because its impossible to spot. I hear they removed the landing boulder though so maybe its easier to pad now?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : White Rastafarian (V2 R)
By: Colin R When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: PS - No worries RTM I understand the pressures around downgrading - I've often succumbed myself. It is the court of public opinion we are dealing with after all.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Colin R When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: Alyssa - No offense taken. Of course you are free to share your opinion - don't let my own experience overshadow yours. Seth is correct in that everyone will have a different experience up there of both difficulty and danger. And he is also correct that people have a good idea of the possibilities up there now...

OK I am truly done posting on this route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Colin R When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Exasperator - really? harder than FG?

Do you think maybe your experience as a trad climber is deeper than perhaps you are letting on? You say "solid" 5.10 which I would agree with but each climber has to decide what that means for themselves. You and I can't make that decision for them - certainly not on a climbing site.

Haven't been back to Squamish in ages so I have no idea what it would feel like now but you're honestly the first person I've heard say Squamish low end grades are anything bu... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Colin R When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: "...I found it reasonable for the grade and with excellent protection throughout (as long as you have RPs for P3). I wouldn't compare the difficulty to the Grand Wall as one comment does. Me and my partner agreed it felt very true to the grade at 5.10-.

Another thing worth noting is that the wetness on P4 shouldn't stop you from finishing the climb. The upper corner and roof was quite wet when I led it but the holds under the roof are positive and gear plentiful....

I'm glad I went for... more >>


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Sounds like you got yourself an FA. Feel free to add it to MP...


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Not to my knowledge. Could be an FA....


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: I've done the problem both with and without the large flake. With it, the problem is more V4, without it is closer to V5 (hence V4/5). We skipped it and moved left both to make the problem harder and because the moves were cool with a nice flow continuing on the small crimps. Use it if you want but the FA was done without it.


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : Latvian Ledge Area : Sargasso Sea (5.12d)
By: Colin R When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: I hear this line rarely gets done and is likely closer to 13a. It spat me off pretty good - couldn't figure out the crux moves....


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : New World Order (5.12a/b)
By: Colin R When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: A quick complaint before I gush:

I was not impressed with Mr. Horst's bolt-job on this line (I have heard through the grape vine that he did bolt it in a less than ideal way) - nothing personal against him. The third bolt is hard to clip if you are hanging the draws even though there is a good hold lower and if you fall there before clipping (even before you pull slack) you can land on your belayer or deck - I nearly did. I suggest fixing this bolt lower or placing a permadraw there which you c... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : The Headless Horseman (5.11+ V4-)
By: Colin R When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: How can something be 5.11+ or V6?

V6 is 5.12 to 5.12+


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Hone Stone : Weeping Warrior/Berholtz Ar... (V6-7)
By: Colin R When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: Nice looking line.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: Mellon's guidebook is crazy sandbagged. FG would be rated 5.10d/11a in Squamish imo.


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : Coordination Tongue (V6)
By: Colin R When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: I tried this and there is NO WAY it is V6. Absurdly small crimps....


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : White Rastafarian (V2 R)
By: Colin R When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: The growing bandwagon of people downrating this problem is laughable to the extreme. Apparently even the author has gotten caught up in the hype....

V1+

Really people?

Still though the vast majority seem to think its V3 - why change the grade?


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