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Member Since: Sep 10, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Colin R

Point Rank: # 946
Total Points: 760

6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Colin R been climbing?










Contributions


All 683 | Routes 40 | Areas 6 | Photos 67 | Page Improvements | Comments 214 | Posts 90 | Stars 155 | Ratings 111
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : Last Meal (V4)
By: Colin R When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: This is a really nice technical crimping face problem. As good as any in the area.


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : Put All Your Fears To Rest (V4-)
By: Colin R When: Jun 10, 2017

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Comments: The grade can vary from V3/4 to V5 depending on where you place your hands. I think we should clarify what all the different options are. I did the hardest variation which I think is well worth doing...


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : The Hunk (V2)
By: Colin R When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: This might be the best moderate in Bishop.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Rock Creek Bouldering : ... : The Blunder Bus (V5-6)
By: Colin R When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: Yeah V6 is a bit of a stretch for this. Fear factor might add a degree of difficulty but probably just a stout V5...


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Head Wall : Feng Shui (5.12a)
By: Colin R When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: For a reference this lockoff pictured here is about 3 feet of span. Given that the average human arm is 25 inches (just over two feet) and his lower arm is locked off at 90 degrees that means one foot for his lower arm distance and two for his upper. And he is not even doing a dyno.

mountainproject.com/v/10594375...


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Head Wall : Feng Shui (5.12a)
By: Colin R When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: A three foot dyno isn't that far. The average length of a human arm is 2 feet so its just a bit more than that - maybe 2.5 feet? Its a big throw is all I remember.

The slab move at the end was the crux for me. I can only describe how it felt when I did it. The rest of the route is maybe 5.11b tops (with good rests to boo) without those two sections so I don't know why you would think its 12a without a couple of hard cruxes.

Why don't you just downgrade it man? I think that's wh... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Milk the Milks (V6)
By: Colin R When: Apr 13, 2017

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Comments: Finally finished this - took two trips to bishops and many burns.

Nice line and well worth it.


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : Cruxifixion (V5)
By: Colin R When: Jan 27, 2017

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Comments: Makes sense.

I think the straight up version is probably V6 (arguably an eliminate but worth doing) and the hand out right version is V5 (what I did).

Just my two cents.

Cheers...

: )


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : Cruxifixion (V5)
By: Colin R When: Dec 4, 2016

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Comments: Couple things...

First - how is this a V4? I understand grades are meant to be stiff at Calabogie but calling this V4 is quite silly. Even compared to other V4's at Calabogie its quite a bit harder.

Second - The hand hold out right is not off route. I spoke to Jason about this and he said its fair game as they are quite hard to reach although he seemed somewhat hesitant at first to say this. I used this hold and would call it V5 even with that variation.

I think highly of ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : The Survivalist (V4 PG13)
By: Colin R When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: I've changed the grade to V4 to reflect current consensus and keep it in line with other climbs nearby of similar difficulty.


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : The Master Theorem (V7-8)
By: Colin R When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Grade was originally V7 and the problem was called "The Theorem" but since then a key hold has broken forcing a harder bump. I am not totally ready to upgrade it to V8 though without more feedback. I "enhanced" the name to "Master Theorem" as I believe I did the first repeat since the broken hold and it is definitely harder now. If someone knows someone else who repeated it since the broken hold please let ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : Lady Slipper Wall : Niagro (5.12c)
By: Colin R When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Someone needs to go at this thing with a crow bar and knock off all the loose choss below the roof. There is a ton of it up there and it is dangerous, particularly for the belayer as the ramp/slab bounces the choss right back towards the belayers head/face. I knocked off a fair bit but there is a ton more. I recommend using a large brush too in order to get rid of the dirt. After the initial choss fest however the line becomes darn near immaculate on perfect limestone with a mixture of both powe... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : High Plains Drifter (V7)
By: Colin R When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: HPD is a benchmark (i.e. right on the money) for V7 given the majority of V7s I have done.

Period.

The End.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Cat's Ass Wall : Eye of the Cougar (5.12c)
By: Colin R When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Greg! Nice work you are doing...


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Lion's Head : Lady Slipper Wall : So! You Think You Know Good... (5.11d)
By: Colin R When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: Could be the best 11+ at Lion's Head. Really nice moves...


Location: North America : Canada : Ontario : Calabogie : Calabogie Bouldering : Gatineau Special (V6)
By: Colin R When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: I think this problem is a tad harder if you are tall due to the low sit start, ass-dragging involved. That said, this should be the benchmark V6 for the area IMO...


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : New World Order (5.12a/b)
By: Colin R When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Chris I wasn't aware of the issues around permadraws - my apologies.

Stick clipping isn't an option on the third bolt to my knowledge.

It seems like the best solution is to climb the Doug Reed warmup to the right and place a longer draw when being lowered.

I still think the bolt is in a sketchy spot - that was my only real point. Others are free to disagree and this is sport climbing at the New so maybe we should all suck it up. Still though I would like to encourage people, even veterans lik... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : Val-David : ... : Brutus (V7+)
By: Colin R When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Downrated to V7-ish


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Colin R When: Jan 23, 2016

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Comments: Funny thing...

My spotter bailed on me to take that photo and I didn't know it until I was topping out. He was like "hold on let me grab some photos...You totally got it dude!". Then I had to top it out which probably wouldn't have mattered anyways because its impossible to spot. I hear they removed the landing boulder though so maybe its easier to pad now?


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : White Rastafarian (V2 R)
By: Colin R When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: PS - No worries RTM I understand the pressures around downgrading - I've often succumbed myself. It is the court of public opinion we are dealing with after all.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Colin R When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: Alyssa - No offense taken. Of course you are free to share your opinion - don't let my own experience overshadow yours. Seth is correct in that everyone will have a different experience up there of both difficulty and danger. And he is also correct that people have a good idea of the possibilities up there now...

OK I am truly done posting on this route.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Colin R When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Exasperator - really? harder than FG?

Do you think maybe your experience as a trad climber is deeper than perhaps you are letting on? You say "solid" 5.10 which I would agree with but each climber has to decide what that means for themselves. You and I can't make that decision for them - certainly not on a climbing site.

Haven't been back to Squamish in ages so I have no idea what it would feel like now but you're honestly the first person I've heard say Squamish low end grades are anything bu... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Colin R When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: "...I found it reasonable for the grade and with excellent protection throughout (as long as you have RPs for P3). I wouldn't compare the difficulty to the Grand Wall as one comment does. Me and my partner agreed it felt very true to the grade at 5.10-.

Another thing worth noting is that the wetness on P4 shouldn't stop you from finishing the climb. The upper corner and roof was quite wet when I led it but the holds under the roof are positive and gear plentiful....

I'm glad I went for... more >>


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Smuggler's Notch Bouldering : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Sounds like you got yourself an FA. Feel free to add it to MP...


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Smuggler's Notch Bouldering : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Colin R When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Not to my knowledge. Could be an FA....


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