Comments: FYI - Climbing isn't "legal" within the park. County Sheriffs will fine and potentially confiscate your gear if caught. If they're feeling frisky they may even drag you in and charge you for trespassing.
I grew up within a mile of the area and way back when put up a ton of routes, but that was a long time ago. Some of my favorite hard climbs are within the park. And they only got harder over time as key holds broke off. lol. The rock isn't very dense.