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Member Since: Jan 30, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Chad N

Point Rank: # 510
Total Points: 1,270

98 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Chad N been climbing?










Contributions


All 908 | Routes 9 | Areas 13 | Photos 219 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 214 | Stars 386 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Neat Wall
By: Chad N When: 6 days ago

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Comments: yeah Shayna thanks! 2016 was the worst ever wasp&bee season! Best to rap in. The horizontal takes #2 to #4 cams or big hexes if I remember correctly.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Danland : Race Crack Area
By: Chad N When: Dec 30, 2016

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Comments: If you get the topos from sekiclimbing.com this area is named the Silly Pinnacle Area and not Race Crack Area.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Photo
By: Chad N When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Yo Brian, I got on this a couple weeks ago (TR solo). Great pitch. The lower half (#2/#3" hand crack) goes at about 5.8, but the 6-18" (2nd half) crack felt like hard 10+. I struggled w/ it. Good stuff though.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Lower Brother : Absolutely Free, Center (5.9)
By: Chad N When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: We did this in 4 pitches, breaking up P2 into two. New looking rap rings are atop P1 and out on the face left of route, left of the perfect splitter on P2. New-ish rope around tree atop P2. Could probably rap this route easily with 2 ropes. We had a single 70, but decided to do the walk off. A single 70 might be close. Also spotted some tat around a tree to rap the approach gully.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Photo
By: Chad N When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: Dooood yes! Pm'ed


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP
By: Chad N When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: Kaweah Traverse _ Big to Black


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Lotus Flower Tower : ... : Photo
By: Chad N When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: F-in gorgeous !


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Eagle Scout Peak : Dancing Deer Direct (5.7)
By: Chad N When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: In the last few years, I've spoken with a couple parties that have done it. They all had god things to say. Sounds like the standard, bit of loose rock and dirty cracks because of the light traffic.

edit: climbed it a couple weeks ago. Pretty good route, o.k. rock, lots of cracks and face climbing. great position.

Also the North Face Route 5.7, looks really good!


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Sequoia Bouldering : Wuksachi Lodge
By: Chad N When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: In the homemade map I've provided, Area 1 would be the boulders in the top right hand side of the map. The lower left would be Area 2.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Hamilton Dome : Photo
By: Chad N When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Our approach was up a bit higher than this. We left the trail just after Hamilton Falls (brown streak in left side of pic), then found a narrow ramp (L to R diagonal line in center of pic) that leads into the right most drainage then up into the bowl. From the bowl, over a notch that is up near the ridge that is Hamilton Towers, then descended to the toe of the North Buttress.

Either way, it's a full-value approach!


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Chimney Rocks : Crystal Wall : Harmonic Balance (5.8+)
By: Chad N When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: My favorite slab route on the Crystal Wall. Very much like a Tuolumne lead. Spacey between bolts but just enough. Bomber rock and knobs.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI)
By: Chad N When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: The annual closure is in effect. 4/1/16 to 8/15/16. All routes closed between South Face and Full Metal Jacket on the South and East faces.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : Arc of a Biner (5.9+)
By: Chad N When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: A couple cruxes down low, the first crux comes near the ground with a tricky slab move left that is protected with ok cams/nuts. Then there's a weird knob mantel to get up to the 1st bolt. Sustained climbing throughout. Sometimes 10-14 ft. between bolts. Another full value Sequoia climb. You can start on Ticket Ride and move into Arc of a Biner for an easier start. Approach to the start of the climb is 4th/5th class dirty scrambling. Best to do this climb in two pitches and go right to the raili... more >>


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy
By: Chad N When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: As for the 5.7 - 5.9 bolted slab climbs on the far right side (Bit by Bit to Sparkler), I find these climbs to be kinda hard. More ideal for those very comfortable at 5.8/9 slab. Kinda run-out on some of these climbs, plus older, original FA bolts - smc hangers, some 1/4"ers; pretty full value stuff. Take a 2nd rope to get off some of these and small/med gear will place in the the little cracks & flakes. May need to leave some rap gear too. Some new rap ring anchors and new lead protec... more >>


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : South Face (5.7+)
By: Chad N When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: What a great route! Haven't done it in several years and I was happily surprised at the great rock quality, fun moves, beautiful position, and nice sense of an adventure route. Approach took us about an hour, but I'd done it a few times years ago so I kinda remembered it. There is a small use trail (thanks to the deer and bear) most of the way down with short sections of plowing through bushes mixed in. When in doubt, hike near the base of the east face, especially after ladies on top and down ... more >>


Location: South America : Chile : Torres Del Paine : Monzino route (on North Tow... (5.10a WI1) : Photo
By: Chad N When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Great shot Hans! Is this photo taken somewhere near Campamento Japanese?


Location: South America : Chile : Torres Del Paine
By: Chad N When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Torres del Paine climbing permit info.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Torre Principal : ... : Photo
By: Chad N When: Feb 25, 2016

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Comments: Yes this crack looks good, but we climbed left of this too, into the huge right facing open book feature.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Torre Principal : Clemenzo (5.9+)
By: Chad N When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: We did this in 5 pitches, with a walk over on the ledge after P4, 60m rope ok, party of 3. When you find the green painted rock that could be the start, scramble up the 4th/low5th class stuff 10-15 meters to just before the harder 5.8 (?) moves.... felt much harder. Probably best to move the belay R to L on the white ledge after P2, but we pitched it out for a very nice and long ~55 meter pitch (long runners) of crack and chimney climbing. Again, felt harder than 5+, more like 6a. No pro in the ... more >>


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Anfiteatro : The Coriolis Effect (5.11b/c)
By: Chad N When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: late Jan. 2016--missing hanger at P1 bolt belay. Can back up the one bolt w/ a blue dmm offset nut. Not much traffic on this route therefore lots of lichen on many pitches and crumbly foot holds and spinner hangers on P4 bolted 10c face pitch.


Location: Tennessee : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Scream Wall (5.10a/b)
By: Chad N When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: TR'ed this today and I'd agree, 10c thin face start is crux. Would make a heady lead.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Hamilton Dome : Photo
By: Chad N When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: did this rap in 2012 and we were able walk (zig-zag) 4th+ class down and do one 60m rope rap from a huge flake. left a couple nuts & a sling. maybe a bit left of the red arrows but its not too trivial.


Location: Tennessee : Deep Creek : Thin Mint (5.10c)
By: Chad N When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: A cam (BD #1 or 2) in the horizontal before the shuts can provide some mental relief, but the moves up there aren't hard.


Location: Tennessee : Foster Falls : Dog Boy Village : Golden Girl (5.10c)
By: Chad N When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Golden girl is a great climb on good rock.

Finger crack 8' right = the Crag says it's 'Golden Finger' 11a. Crux is lie back at start getting into the crack. I pulled a big 7lb block off this thing so it's all cleaned up now, Lol.


Location: Tennessee : Suck Creek Canyon : Roadside Wall : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Chad N When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: ^ Wow, 'soft 5.9' seems like a stretch. That's solid 10a for anybody, I would think. Anything to compare it to? And you probably had 'finger locks on a lieback' and not 'ringlocks'. Ringlocks are usually done on a straight in finger crack (vertical wall, not corner) where a ring shape is made with the the thumb and 1st finger, sometimes 2nd too.


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